JoshK Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 Slogged (or diet slogged as eric called it) dome peak with Eric (Ivan) this WE. left car 12:30pm saturday. Stopped by rain ~5:00pm saturday, approx 9 miles up the approach, 3 miles up the bachelor creek trail. set camp in woods to stay dry. hiking by 5am next morning. cold and foggy. reach itswoot ridge around 2pm after much postholing misery and slow going. visibility is shite, cannot see route at all. set up camp around 3pm on a small ridge 1/4 mile past itswoot ridge. wake up at 2am hoping to climb. visibility is about 100 feet. repeat this process every hour until 7am when it miraculously clears up all of a sudden. Hmm, we still want to do this? yeah, but we gotta haul ass. leave camp at 7:30. miserable postholing all along traverse across basin. from 7400ft+ plus snow is hard. thank god. summit at 11:10. yay, very happy. shit, snow softening very quickly, 20 miles back to car. let's fucking move. snow is utter slop. much miserableness back to camp. watch giant avy scour slope we need to cross. good...slope is now safer. bad...shit, that's awful close for comfort. much hot and miserable sweating back up to itswoot ridge, down to cub lake, back up to cub lake pass, back down to bachelor creek, through the brush and to first night's camp. last of food is eaten. down to downey creek by dark. hellish 6 mile trail walk along downey creek with boots utterly soaked and empty stomachs. feels like we are walking on sponges. car reached at 11:40. damn...suiattle river road is long. yup...darrington still sucks. smokey point jack in the box is reached at 1:30 or so. 4 tacos, 1 dbl cheesburger, a chicken fajita pita, 2 large fries, a large coke and a large sprite is consumed between us. home at 2:30. summary: unbelievably beatiful area. definitely more work in may w/ unconsilidated snow than it would be later in season. a good honest ~35+ mile weekend with lots of elevation gain. met our goals of a good non-technical, yet demanding, scenic outing with no other people seen on the normally heavily jackass infested memorial day weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 that place is my fantasy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klenke Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 Good job. "Non-technical?" Hmm, guess that's relative. The summit rocks are at least class 3. I would have imagined them to be snowy and thus more exposed in May. What were the summit rocks like for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 klenke said: Good job. "Non-technical?" Hmm, guess that's relative. The summit rocks are at least class 3. I would have imagined them to be snowy and thus more exposed in May. What were the summit rocks like for you? i thought techincal started at 5.9+ anything below that is non technical and just in the way. and wouldnt the rock still be exposed in june, july, october? or do they move? or have family come visit from out of the batholith making a borader summit? weird Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 28, 2003 Share Posted May 28, 2003 klenke said: Good job. "Non-technical?" Hmm, guess that's relative. The summit rocks are at least class 3. I would have imagined them to be snowy and thus more exposed in May. What were the summit rocks like for you? the only rock we encountered was the last 2 feet to the summit...a most difficult lieback my favorite part of this trip, besides the swamp feet and the big slide that wiped out our trail about 2 minutes before we reached it, had to be doing the entire walk out on 1 granola bar and 4 chips ahoy cookies...the miserable slog out proved the immense value of an mp3 player...i think "tool" was not quite what i needed running through my head at the time though...bjork on the other hand oh yes, discovering at jack-off-in-the-box while eating a taco that i had somehow sunburned my tongue was enjoyable too fuck, what an awesome place...don't anybody else go there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted May 28, 2003 Author Share Posted May 28, 2003 Klenke, the summit consisted of a 20-30 degree snow slope leading to a very athestc knife edge of snow, and as eric said, 2 feet of rock. It wasn't technical, but it was definitely exposed. A firm axe self belay was helpful here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klenke Posted May 28, 2003 Share Posted May 28, 2003 That would be an interesting picture to see. Courtesy of Bob Bolton of Summitpost.com, this is a picture of the summit rocks of Dome without the snow (note that the boulder at the top has long since fallen away): Dome Peak Summit . It would be cool if you took a photo of the snow arete apex for comparison purposes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted May 28, 2003 Author Share Posted May 28, 2003 Sure, I'll post a pic when I get home, I have plenty. Is the interest because the peak doesn't get climbed much this early in the year? That little itty bit of rock beneath the now-departed summit boulder is the only part that was exposed for us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted July 1, 2003 Author Share Posted July 1, 2003 Klenke, here are the pics i promised you and never posted http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=1248&papass=&sort=1&thecat=504 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=1250&papass=&sort=1&thecat=504 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klenke Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Doch. Ich sehe der schnee machen für sehr uneinheitlich klettern konditionen. Vielleicht leichter, vielleicht härter. Nett bilder obgleich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 klenke said: Doch. Ich sehe der schnee machen für sehr uneinheitlich klettern konditionen. Vielleicht leichter, vielleicht härter. Nett bilder obgleich. Translated to: I love sucking ass and beating the chest. Help me out brotha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klenke Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Meine Deutsch ist nicht sehr gut, aber: "Aha. I see snow [at the summit] makes for very different climbing conditions. Maybe easier, maybe harder. Nice images though." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 klenke said: Meine Deutsch ist nicht sehr gut, aber: "Aha. I see snow [at the summit] makes for very different climbing conditions. Maybe easier, maybe harder. Nice images though." It's always easier after I've done it. Especially when I see someon else's pictures on the internet in 1/2 the time and 1/2 the pro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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