scot'teryx Posted May 21, 2003 Share Posted May 21, 2003 Does anyone else use this as a personal? I have found it to be a priceless piece of gear at belays, and although I know your not supposed to belay off of it, it works real well in a system. Anyone else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted May 21, 2003 Share Posted May 21, 2003 couldn't you just use a clove-hitch off the rope to do the same thing? less weight, less cost...yadda yadda... mabe i am missig some key point in it's function... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted May 21, 2003 Share Posted May 21, 2003 Do a search Scott. These have been talked about several times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted May 21, 2003 Author Share Posted May 21, 2003 Fence_Sitter said: couldn't you just use a clove-hitch off the rope to do the same thing? that's my backup, but then again, im fucking redundant in my anchors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted May 21, 2003 Share Posted May 21, 2003 (edited) yeah, but the metolius thing you have ...i think it is only rated about the same as that clove-hitch thingy( i think 600 lbs)... i would use a fixed main anchor point (which would be much stronger), and then use a clove hitch as my adjustable(you could substitute that for a metolius thingy i guess), but i could see where that thing might be a nice thing to have for quick adjustments when you have to use all of the rope and cant spare extra rope, but i guess that dose't happen very often... Edited May 21, 2003 by Fence_Sitter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hakioawa Posted May 21, 2003 Share Posted May 21, 2003 I have one. They are great for aiding buy I don't uses them for anything else. As I recall the strength rating is something like 2 or 4 kN and the metolius warning is pretty direct. Warning All Easy Daisy Users: Daisy Chains should be used for body weight applications only! Do not use as your sole attachment point. Always back them up with full-strength attachments. Do not use as a runner or sling. Do not belay off Metolius Aiders or Daisies. I read that while hanging one one from a single bolt cleaning a sport anchor. Kinda freaked me out. I bet they wouldn't hold body weight under a fall factor of greater than 0.5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sphinx Posted May 21, 2003 Share Posted May 21, 2003 A normal daisy chain will hold as much as a runner. HOWEVER, the stitching creating the loops blows out at around 500lbs. I often hang off of one daisy chain while cleaning anchors. Seems safe to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted May 21, 2003 Share Posted May 21, 2003 I'm with Spinx. I use it in a redunant system. When I'm cleaning up the belay it is my last piece. I seem to recall that it says it holds to 300 lbs.? Scott: I got one after selling a bunch of old stuff at Second Ascent. I like that it can be adjusted easily, but I'm not to sure I like the way it feels when climbing. I have it hitched to the belay loop at half-length and then run between my legs and clipped onto a gear loop with a locking biner. Pretty much the way one would use any daisy. Anyone climb with it in a different configuration? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted May 21, 2003 Share Posted May 21, 2003 The daisy works great for aiding, but I don't know why you'd carry one for regular climbing just to use as a anchor connection. Talk about carrying too much crap...bring a regular daisy that you can actually trust, or just use a clove hitch. Carrying a bodyweight only bearing piece for part of a main anchor set-up is just silly... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hakioawa Posted May 21, 2003 Share Posted May 21, 2003 Sphinx said: A normal daisy chain will hold as much as a runner. HOWEVER, the stitching creating the loops blows out at around 500lbs. I often hang off of one daisy chain while cleaning anchors. Seems safe to me. True, however this is not the issue here. With a normal daisy if the sticking blows you have a slightly weaker normal runner (kinda like a sreamer). But with the metolius easy daisy if a single piece of thin aluminum blows the entire this thing goes all at once. I guess I just don't need the infinite adjustment when free climbing very often. Or the adility to "reel" youself in frequently. Its probably fine as a backup, but I do not think it is safe as your only piece. If 300lbs is correct (and I think it is) I think a 10" fall would blow it apart. Its cool for the right use though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted May 21, 2003 Share Posted May 21, 2003 a 2 foot fall would probably blast that sucka... remember that with that static shit the impacts are pretty hairy... i dont know how to do the math, but for a 150 lb guy to double his weight with inertia wouldn't take that long... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 22, 2003 Share Posted May 22, 2003 scotteryx is gonna DIE sketch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted May 22, 2003 Share Posted May 22, 2003 But as Sphinx said: I often hang off of one daisy chain while cleaning anchors. No problem. I think it is aniche item. Likely best use is aid. But in a redundant system, no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted May 22, 2003 Author Share Posted May 22, 2003 I know your not supposed to belay off of it, it works real well in a system. Anyone else? I guess I need to reiterate the question? I didn't really care if you didn't use it, I was more curious if anyone else USED it in a PAS instead of a daisy chain, since that is what it is categorized as by Metolius. You not suppsed to belay off of a daisy chain either, and everyone knows that. I always back it up with the rope, so go ahead and read the question again and again until you figure it out Metolius says "Daisy Chains can be used for rigging jumars, leading aid pitches and sorting out complicated belays. Choose from our standard nylon or spectra daisies or our revolutionary Easy Daisy." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted May 22, 2003 Share Posted May 22, 2003 fine...they suck ass and you should just use a clove hitch... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 22, 2003 Share Posted May 22, 2003 I've been experimenting with a continuously adjustable personal anchor known as a Purcell Prussik. I made out of a 6 mm perlon. I would bet it is a lot stronger than the Metolius Easy Daisy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 22, 2003 Share Posted May 22, 2003 sketchteryx the revolutionary new Metolius Personal Anchor System is only $30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted May 22, 2003 Author Share Posted May 22, 2003 only if you like to pay too much they retail for $21.95 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hakioawa Posted May 22, 2003 Share Posted May 22, 2003 Scott, To answer your question, no. I don't use it for a personal anchor. I used to, but it sketches me out a little too much. But I'm a wimp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 22, 2003 Share Posted May 22, 2003 scot'teryx said: only if you like to pay too much they retail for $21.95 that's what I said, $27.95 Canadian. I rounded up to $30 so it'd be easy to convert to American. Sounds like YOU're getting ripped off a WHOLE DOLLAR if you really bought one for $21.95 US - the Cdn dollar is up to 75 cents US at the moment 27.95 X 0.75 = 20.95. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalius Posted May 22, 2003 Share Posted May 22, 2003 You are such nerds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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