N. Ridge of Mt. Blackburn

[Ryan_McPhee]

Three friends and I are planning to climb the North Ridge of Mount Blackburn in the last two weeks of June. One of my climbing partners was just told by a friend, who is a guide on Denali, that that the North Ridge is a big sandbag and that it is significantly harder than the West Butt. Apparently he made a failed attempt on the route and had quite the epic. We understand that this will be a late season ascent and things will be quite broken up. Does anyone have any more info they could lend me. Thanks

[Fairweather]

I was in Mcarthy a couple years ago and was told by Wrangell Mountain Air that no one will land a plane on Nabesna Glacier after mid-May. Maybe they were full of shit...worth checking out.

 

As for the north ridge...it looks pretty easy, but heavily crevassed and possibly avalanche prone. I've read several accounts in AAJ, some climbers taking only two days from the landing site to round-trip this climb...some waiting out the weather for quite a while longer. Ragardless, this mountain looks awesome.

[fern]

this is kinda O/T ... but I heard in passing somewhere that the Dora Keen expedition first ascent story for the peak (different route I think though) is now considered a hoax? does anyone know the scoop?

[Dru]

yes, the true story about Dora Keen pulling an early Dan -, or a late Frederic Cook, can be found in the 1995

CAJ.

[bDubyaH]

There is a route description here

[dkemp]

I was also considering Blackburn via NR for this year. I emailed with Paul Klaus in December. Here is what he said:

I have been on Blackburn almost every year for the last 25 and I have to say that it is a very beautiful Mtn. I am not real fond of the North ridge for a number reasons. It gets a lot of wind deposit snow because all the storms come in from the South and after the big storm ends there is always a local storm raging on the North side of the Mtn. There is a technical section

between 10000' and 12500' and has a pitch or two that needs to be belayed or fixed. Other than that it is a walkup and is good for skiing except for the one section. Infact I would carry my skis above because it is a real long way from 12500' to the summit. The success rate for the folks that I have flown to the North ridge over the years is less than 20%. You might want to talk to George Dunn at International Mountain Guides in Seattle. He has been with us for many years and has made a lot of tries on the North ridge.

He quoted me $550 RT per climber for the Nebesna - yikes, thats a pile of dough! So I'm off for other things but Blackburn NR is still on my list.

Dox

 

[bubblebutt]

I'm flying in with Pual of Ultima Thule on June 6th for attempts at Atna and Rime Peaks which are adjacent to Mt.Backburn with two of my buddies.We plan to be back in Seattle by 15th/16th June so contact me by PM and I'll let you know what the conditions are.Can confirm the $550 flight cost and Paul is only one who flies in at that time of year.