double rope crevasse rescue

[ivan]

gonna be just a party of 2 on denali...with all the monster crevasses, we want to have a good distance of rope between us (at least 20 meters), plus enough rope kiwi coiled on us to rap down from an anchor to help each other if necessary. one solution is having a long-ass rope (like 70 meters). another is using a double rope set up. the double rope idea is attractive because we want o climb the wb direct, which opens up the possiblity of doing some ice-climbing, where 2 ropes is nice. i've heard that some folks use doube ropes on glaciers, however, i wonder about the difficulties in using a double rope for crevasse rescue...anyone practiced that before? seems like it might eat into the lip worse, or be more confusing as far as rigging pulleys, etc.

 

anybody have any thoughts on this?

[Bill_Simpkins]

70 m = 20 between, and 25 each kiwi coiled. sounds good to me.

 

If you are really concerned, maybe bring 10-20 meters of 7mm cord each to extend reppels lines if needed.. Or each carry a light 30 m rope and use a 50 m rope between. Just ideas.

[Bronco]

Go with a 60m and only have 18m between you, which is plenty of distance. Don't forget to tie some big knots (2 or 3) between you for extra braking on the lip of the crevase as your partner drags you to a certain blue doom. Obviously, you should try this out before you get up to Denali.

 

There's my two cents on that matter.

[bDubyaH]

Hike with one rope, pack the other in a sled. No reason to load two ropes up with water and have them freeze into cables. Knots in the rope are nice, practice moving past them.

[bDubyaH]

Oh yeah, and some of the crevasses are so big it doesn't matter how much rope you have. They can swallow a couple of school buses . But the trail to the climbing shoud be well set by the time you get there...makes it safer?

[rbw1966]

My two cents (adjusted for inflation): forget putting knots in the rope. You'll take way more time moving past knots and when you have already been stuck in a crevasse for a while getting the hell out is something you want to do as quickly as possible. The friction of the rope on the lip of the crevasse will slow you down enough without knotting the ropes unless you're walking across an icefield and the lower Kahiltna in June is not that.

 

Also, I'd advise against using ultra skinny ropes 'cause jugging them will be trickier with mechanized ascenders (jumars or tiblocs). Using prussiks, no big deal. If you really plan on doing something technical where two ropes will be handy then I agree with storing one so it doesn't get wet and freeze up.

 

Have fun--when are you leaving?

[ivan]

june 21 is the long awaited flight...probably won't bring ascenders 'cuz i'm a cheap bastard and don't own a pair(however, school year is comign to an end soon so perhaps i can sell some grades and raise the cash...ah, free enterprise)...my partner now seems keen on the 70 meter solution....as he is willing to foot the bill for it all, how can i complain?

[rbw1966]

I can loan you my ascenders if you want--it would depend on your return date though.

[hakioawa]

just a thought. Obviously this won't work if you belay long ice pitches, but why on two 8mm 35m ropes. Or actually 1 34m and 1 36 meter? Tied into both. That way if someone goes in and is held by the other the shorter rope takes the weight. The second rope can then be used to haul. I guess a helfed 70m would work too. BUt the person tied int the middle would have a bigger rope cluster f!@# hauling and may not be able to untie.

 

Note I've never tried this but it seem like it would work. But if you are comfortable only 20m apart I think a single 60m into thirds would be the best choice.