erik Posted April 28, 2003 Share Posted April 28, 2003 Never done this route till this past saturday and the route has it's ups and downs. I would like to think that with more traffic this route could clean up and be as quality as the other 2 routes on the crag. Only a tad bit of rotten rock and it is relatively mellow. the route is a full value 5.9. gear we used: 1 set of stoppers. 4 tcus + 1 booty set of cams to 2" and tons of slings and maybe a quick draw or 3. Nothing like the dust trough popularly known as the Snow crick trail, everytime I hike this trail I get this weird pump in my shins. But either way the trail sucks.... So we get to the base and head out, no real plan of attack other then we will climb it and enjoy ourselves. Leave the packs near the start of Remose? on a tree. Blast up the route beginngin chimney which it shares with orbit, a nice excerise in greasy chim thruthcing experiences which i never seem to have done the same way twice and lead into the 1st pitch of the actual dihedral through the tick jungle(apprently they were all out feasting as we seemed to have missed them DARN!) Lead into the second pitch which was a nice mellow mix of stemming, thin crack and some bluges to over come all on very good rock, with gear options a plenty and pulled into that unsightly and ever so uncomfortable bolted rats nest belay. This is where the rotten rock starts to appear. Make your way up to a bolt(a new one!) and then make a 20+ traverse out left on some cool ass knobs! Kinda airy, and the wall is nice and steep plus the last move is a long reach/dynmaic move!!!! into a nice flake. Up off the natural belay onto flakes, knobs and move good edges, moving back right towards a corner that break the small capping roof. Hand rails and fingers over the bulge and onto a slab and another small bulge, I ran the pitch to the big ledge near the top of Orbit, set up a belay, burned a tick and brought holmes up to finnish. Another quality Snow Crick crag route, and like I said with more traffic this route would be quite nice. It is graded fairly for the area and is sustained with some varied climbing. The pro on the route for the most part is good and most of the bolts are new. Anyone else do this route? Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted April 28, 2003 Share Posted April 28, 2003 erik said: Never done this route till this past saturday and the route has it's ups and downs. I would like to think that with more traffic this route could clean up and be as quality as the other 2 routes on the crag. Only a tad bit of rotten rock and it is relatively mellow. the route is a full value 5.9. gear we used: 1 set of stoppers. 4 tcus + 1 booty set of cams to 2" and tons lf slings and maybe a quick draw or 3. Nothing like the dust trough popularly known as the Snow crick trail, everytime I hike this trail I get this weird pump in my shins. But either way they trail sucks.... So we get to the base and head out, no real plan of attack other then we will climb it and enjoy ourselves. Leave the packs near the start of Remose? on a tree. Blast up the route beginngin chimney which it shares with orbit, a nice excerise in greasy chim thruthcing experiences which i never seem to have done the same way twice and lead into the 1st pitch of the actual dihedral through the tick jungle(apprently they were all out feasting as we seemed to have missed them DARN!) Lead into the second pitch which was a nice mellow mix of stemming, thin crack and some bluges to over come all on very good rock, with gear options a plenty and pulled into that unsightly and ever so uncomfortable bolted rats nest belay. This is where the rotten rock starts to appear. Make your way up to a bolt(a new one!) and then make a 20+ traverse out left on some cool ass knobs! Kinda airy, and the wall is nice and steep plus the last move is a long reach/dynmaic move!!!! into a nice flake. Up off the natural belay onto flakes, knobs and move good edges, moving back right towards a corner that break the small capping roof. Hand rails and fingers over the bulge and onto a slab and another small bulge, I ran the pitch to the big ledge near the top of Orbit, set up a belay, burned a tick and brought holmes up to finnish. Another quality Snow Crick crag route, and like I said with more traffic this route would be quite nice. It is graded fairly for the area and is sustained with some varied climbing. The pro on the route for the most part is good and most of the bolts are new. Anyone else do this route? Thoughts? you forgot the most important gear item..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 29, 2003 Share Posted April 29, 2003 what about Galaxy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted April 29, 2003 Author Share Posted April 29, 2003 Dru said: what about Galaxy? get down here and lets do it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted April 29, 2003 Share Posted April 29, 2003 I did that route ten years ago. Is that hollow flake still at the bulge below the traverse? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted April 29, 2003 Share Posted April 29, 2003 Bug said: I did that route ten years ago. Is that hollow flake still at the bulge below the traverse? Yes, there are hollow flakes at the bulge.... a little bit scary... but solid enuff! Dru- i heard galaxy suks the drainage it is...ice?!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted April 29, 2003 Share Posted April 29, 2003 Galaxy - Once a friend and myself tried climbing OS, Orbit and Galxy in a day. We did the first two and then bailed on Galaxy because it is a bad route. After getting down I regretted it because I knew it was so bad I would never go back and missed the opportunity to tick it off. PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted April 29, 2003 Share Posted April 29, 2003 It seems most routes on Snow Crick are pretty adventurous - with some suspect dirty rock. Its funny as hell because all anyone climbs there is Outer Space or maybe Orbit. The other routes are good too just need to be cleaned up. Nice Erik! Sounds like a good time!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 29, 2003 Share Posted April 29, 2003 Champagne has 2 stars, anybody dunnit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted April 29, 2003 Author Share Posted April 29, 2003 Dru said: Champagne has 2 stars, anybody dunnit? get down here and lets do it... you aint got no job....whats your excuse?? bud green is impaitently waiting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted April 29, 2003 Share Posted April 29, 2003 Dru said: Champagne has 2 stars, anybody dunnit? Went up there old and hung over last Saturday. The white book doesn't give you much info on the start. The old Becky book is right on. Go up the lf flaky corner by the tree at the notch. Traverse left and then up the curving crack to the bolt with a sling on it. The standard route is wet and mossy (maybe it would be three stars without the moss) below the bolt. The variation left is pretty nice and there is a crack just around the corner that protects well. Watch out for the small hollow rope eating flake halfway out the traverse. It caught my rope when I was up 60 ft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted April 29, 2003 Author Share Posted April 29, 2003 KEWL THATS WHAT I WANTED TO HEAR!! I GUESS I'VE SEEN YOU FROM A FAR!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunger Posted April 29, 2003 Share Posted April 29, 2003 E - nice TR. last dance with mary jane? Anybody - where does Galaxy start in relation to the 'other two' routes? my guidebook grew legs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted April 29, 2003 Author Share Posted April 29, 2003 E- I BELIEVE IT STARTS ON LIKE THE LOWEST PORTION OF THE WALL AND WANDERS TO THE TOP FROM THERE.... I THOUGHT IT WAS THE LONGEST ROUTE ON THE WALL- PER PITCHES, BUT I DONT REMEBER RIGHT NOW!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted April 30, 2003 Share Posted April 30, 2003 lunger said: E - nice TR. last dance with mary jane? Anybody - where does Galaxy start in relation to the 'other two' routes? my guidebook grew legs... Galaxy starts on the lowest slab and goes thru the bushes...if you want it, don't forget your scrub brush to clean the ever present dirt.... wander up the gullys... stick to the line of least resistance and bingo... Galaxy is yours.... Champagne is 3 stars.... although the 4thclass approach gully is more like 5.8dirt Spring Fever is right next door... also worthy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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