Cpt.Caveman Posted December 3, 2001 Share Posted December 3, 2001 I have interest in climbing this route. I recently looked at the Desert Southwest guidebook (orwhatever it is called). It says second pitch is 5.10 bulge face climbing. Is this true? I mean the overall description says 5.9 C2 or something. I am not a good 5.10 face climber. I could french free it if it were a crack Anyone have info or done the route? Is the book BS? Anyone have any route recommendations for Zion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 3, 2001 Author Share Posted December 3, 2001 Oops I cannot edit for some reason. I meant to mention there was runout 5.10. At least the book topo appears that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason_Martin Posted December 3, 2001 Share Posted December 3, 2001 I've made two trips to Zion and have completed both Touchstone and Prodigal Son. Both are great routes. In response to your question, the most interesting thing that I've found at Zion is that none of the many guidebooks match. The reason for this is that these routes on such incredibly soft sandstone are constantly changing with each ascent. In the Zion Visitor Center they have a route condition book that is being updated on a regular basis. That is your best bet for the most current beta on route conditions. Prodigal Son is a good alternative if you go down there and find Moonlight to be something other than what your looking for. I did it a month ago at 5.8 C2. Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 3, 2001 Share Posted December 3, 2001 I did most of Space Shot (5.6 C1) a year or so ago before getting bailed off the wall by a thunderstorm. Scary watching "bomber" pieces you are standing on start to track out as the rock gets wet. Space Shot is easy climbing (i took a 30-footer while top stepping due to some casually assuming i didnt need to bounce a certain piece) and would make a good solo cause you can aid all the free climbing except a 5.4-5.6 chimney grovel section at the bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted December 3, 2001 Share Posted December 3, 2001 Freinds have told me that Moonlight is is pretty fun clean aid. Faily easy, but I don't know about the free section. the key beta I can offer is DON'T HAUL! Blast it in a day or you will be hating life. Good Luck Cavey, i'm jealous... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 3, 2001 Author Share Posted December 3, 2001 Internet Research for others heading there too: Topos: http://www.utahphotowild.com/climbing/moonlite.htm http://www.bigwall.com/moonlite.html http://www.geocities.com/pipeline/rapids/2748/zion.htm Pitch by Pitch Beta including gear: http://www.bware.org/tr/moonlight_beta.html [ 12-03-2001: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted December 3, 2001 Share Posted December 3, 2001 I did moonlight a couple of years ago but I don't remember much about it. I don't remember any scary 5.10 free climbing. I do remember some low angle ledgy grovelling down low on the route. Other than the first couple pitches the route is amazing. Splitter C1 cracks for miles. I definatley wouldn't haul on it. Fix the first three and then blast the next day or just go for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 3, 2001 Share Posted December 3, 2001 after capt does it, they will rename it moonshine buttress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 3, 2001 Author Share Posted December 3, 2001 shine Buttress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 3, 2001 Share Posted December 3, 2001 I bet Sexual Popelate would be happy to shine your for you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 3, 2001 Author Share Posted December 3, 2001 Fuck dat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted December 3, 2001 Share Posted December 3, 2001 Just stay WAY left for the first real pitch. This is the thing that I think he's talking about. It's easy to get suckered into this manky sort of crack system that looks better than the ramp thingy out left. Climb the ramp, otherwise you'll be pulling sandy face moves. It's not as complicated route finding as it sounds. Other stuff I'd recommend for easy aid is: Clean: Prodigal, Touchstone, Spaceshot, Lunar Ecstasy. All easy, and also all crowded. T-stone goes in an easy day, lots of fixed gear low and lots of free climbing after pitch 2. Prodigal is tons o fun (my first wall, solo) and the first two pitches link easily with a 60m. Take extra small nuts for Prodigal (shouldn't be a problem for you ehh Cavey!) Lunar X is right next to Moonlight and not usually as crowded. If it's cold, Touchstone faces south...everything else won't see much sun in March. Something you might consider is that Spaceshot, Touchstone, etc are on the east-side of the canyon and you won't have to ford the river on the approach (that fucker's cold in March), for Moonlight, Prodigal, Lunar X, etc you'll be wading that thing...not bad when the water's low, but add 100lb pig and some current and see how you feel. Take offset nuts, ballnuts, small tri-cams, and aliens (hybrids if ya got 'em) or these will feel harder than the ratings...particularly without the HB brass offsets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 3, 2001 Author Share Posted December 3, 2001 Thanks Will and Wallstein. Notice I welcome some spray and I dont have a stick up my ass. Spray on my topic and tell me what a shitty face climber I am. Let me know that I have to yank on gear every 3 inches. It's a helluva lot more fun than drab bs without photos. If you want trip reports go to http://www.mountainwerks.org or http://www.bivouac.com Cartoons welcome here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted December 3, 2001 Share Posted December 3, 2001 If you have a 100lb pig to go do moonlight you have alot more to worry about than the river. I crossed it the middle of december without a problem. Just bring and extra pair of socks or tevas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 3, 2001 Author Share Posted December 3, 2001 I dont imagine I will spend a night on the wall. Whichever I decide to do. I will sleep on the flats or climb through the night and suffer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted December 3, 2001 Share Posted December 3, 2001 or die!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 3, 2001 Author Share Posted December 3, 2001 Maybe that too. Hey only pbs.org shit here man no spraying. I got a moderator looking out for me. Still welcome other responses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted December 3, 2001 Share Posted December 3, 2001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted December 3, 2001 Share Posted December 3, 2001 Big L for LOSER! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 3, 2001 Author Share Posted December 3, 2001 L for Mi Duck Hung Lo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 3, 2001 Share Posted December 3, 2001 take a bunch of pins and nail the hell out of it and listen to the whiners whine. and leave them fixed in all the crux fingerlocks that the free climbers use. that will show those 5.12d bastards! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted December 3, 2001 Share Posted December 3, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Wallstein: If you have a 100lb pig to go do moonlight you have alot more to worry about than the river. I crossed it the middle of december without a problem. Just bring and extra pair of socks or tevas. Yeah, he's right, but soloing Prodigal I had at least 100lbs in the bag crossing the river. 3 ropes at 8lb each, 8lb haul bag, 10lb ledge, 2 gallons of water and food, and you're already up to near 60lbs and that's without the rack, sleeping bag, bong, 1.75L Tequila.... Also there can be a big difference in the water levels between December and March. Take heed on suggestions to go light on Moonlight, a couple of the pitches suck ass to haul. Rigging the haul to extend below any lips or edges will solve some of these, and I think Pieper has some hauling beta in one of his TR's...basically you don't have to haul every pitch, like you might be able to haul from 3 to 5 etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted December 4, 2001 Share Posted December 4, 2001 I think I did it in 5 long pitches and one short 50ft pitch. There is anchor every 70 feet or so on the route. Its all coming back to me now. I think I am having a hard time remembering because of Erik and my brother meeting me on top. We and a little to much on top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 4, 2001 Author Share Posted December 4, 2001 I am not planning to go until March or so. Thanks Lammy and everyone else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted December 4, 2001 Share Posted December 4, 2001 caveman, plan on dying. though if you don't you should send the route no problem. i personally wouldn't worry too much about what the topos say to you. quite acting like a wuss and go climb the damn route now or in spring. c you there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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