Beta for North Face of Shuksan

[flatland]

Any good info for the approach or descent? Did you bivy on the mountain after the summit? Thanks

[flatland]

Sorry, I just found the info I needed on some old posts. If you have any advice (even from you, DPS. you make me laugh) I'd be glad to have it.

[erik]

doitinoneday!

 

nottoobadifyouareingoodshape!

 

iamfatanddiditinoneday!

 

havefunonetheapproach!

 

 

[fleblebleb]

YOUCANALSOTALKFASTANDLOUDATTHESAMETIME

[Norman_Clyde]

Stay HIGH on the bushwack approach, just like everyone says. Too low and you're screwed. Oh yeah, and do it in one day!

[mattp]

I agree that it is easier to stay high on the approach, but I'd have to say that I've gone in and out of there several times and, in the Spring, it is not all that bad if you drop down low. If one of the gullies you have to cross in order to "stay high" forces you to drop down, don't sweat it.

[COL._Von_Spanker]

The base at the lodge at the ski are is 150" right now (or so they say). I looked at the approach from the ski area many time and it seems like you could tromp right over to the base from the ski area with out too much bushwhacking, this time of year. Is it some sort of illusion? sometimes what you see can be pretty deceptive when yer in the mountains. I've just heard horror stories about the approach.

 

 

[Norman_Clyde]

Last year I tried tromping right over from the White Salmon lodge, and still got stuck. As long as you don't drop down early, it's probably no big deal, but we got cliffed out and had to rappel to the valley floor. Further up the valley it's less steep. If you drop down then, the only price you pay is a little more elevation loss. The upper valley is a spectacular alpine environment, with great views of the Hanging Glacier and huge glacial ice blocks and avalanche debris (but don't stop in the exposed places for long). I'm fired up to go for it again this year, as a one day climb. Once avy danger is over with, for this route it seems like the sooner the better.

[COL._Von_Spanker]

Yeah the avi danger is still a threat this weekend. Lame. Guess it's back to aiding in the rain at index.

[philfort]

COL._Von_Spanker said:

it seems like you could tromp right over to the base from the ski area with out too much bushwhacking, this time of year. Is it some sort of illusion?

 

I've done this approach twice. On skis a couple of months ago, it took just over an hour from the base lodge to open slopes in upper white salmon creek (then probably another hour an a half to the base of the north face?). Not really any bushwhacking if there is snowpack. There are several stream gullies to cross, these are a pain in the ass. When I did it a few years ago, they were all filled to brim with avy debris so it was smooth sailing.

[Necronomicon]

Go to the lower lodge.

Walk up the ski trail on the left for about half a mile.

When the trail starts to go up hill sharply to the right, cut out of bounds to the open area on the left.

Drop down through the open area and into the woods on the right. This will get you into the creek bed under the north side of the mountian/shuksan arm. (WICKED AVI TRAP!!!)

Ascend Avi debris up the creek, then cut up left to the saddle under the N. Face.

This approach would suck without good snow cover.

THE SEVERITY OF THE AVALANCHE EXPOSURE CANNOT BE OVERSTATED!!!

[COL._Von_Spanker]

Yeah that's the approach I was thinking of...

[mattp]

Most parties do not continue from the top of the North Face to the summit but, rather, walk down the Hanging Glacier-Curtis Glacier to the White Salmon descent. Those parties that do continue to the summit usually walk around the south side of the mountain to complete the climb via the normal gullies above the Sulphide Glacier, and then continue around the mountain through Hell's Highway and back to the White Salmon descent. It will be a pretty long day if you include the summit climb, and right now I bet it would be made even longer by an isothermal (rotten) snowpack in the basin below the north side of the mountain.