Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
catbirdseat

Metolius curved hexes versus BD Hexcentrics

Recommended Posts

I have a handful of the WC curved hexes and love them, but haven't spend too much time placing hexcentrics. The curve feels really bomber in a lot of cases though, cams in there nice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My opinion is that t he curved hexes don't place as well as the Hexcentrics. They seem to fit a little sloppy because of the curves in some cracks. But, I am sure there will be equal arguements for and against them. I'd say 4 out of 5 times the BD Hexes end up being the piece I place. fruit.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why don't you just go out and by one and see how you like it? Then make your own decision wazzup.gif

 

I have both, which combined makes 1 1/2 sets of hexes. I prefer the old-skool variety, seem to be easier to place, sometimes the wire just messes up a placement.

 

BTW, I replaced the webbing on my #9,10,11 couple weeks ago. It has been so long that the old webbing was NEON hellno3d.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've come to the conclusion that hexes don't need the same kind of intimate contact with the rock that nuts do. They are large enough that combined with the camming effect, they can hold even if the placement isn't perfect.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
plexus said:

Why don't you just go out and by one and see how you like it? Then make your own decision wazzup.gif

 

I have both, which combined makes 1 1/2 sets of hexes. I prefer the old-skool variety, seem to be easier to place, sometimes the wire just messes up a placement.

 

BTW, I replaced the webbing on my #9,10,11 couple weeks ago. It has been so long that the old webbing was NEON hellno3d.gif

 

Me and my partner found a red sling that was so bleached it was a disgusting shade of pink . We dubbed it the "Gay Pride Parade Sling". yellaf.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've used both, and went with the Metolius hexes. Not much difference between the two in standard placements, but the curve hexes also have a curved surface on one of the ends which makes them cam into place when placed endwise, yielding a more secure placement. At least the placements look and feel more secure to me.

 

I rarely used hexes out in CO, but since returning to the land of basalt/andesite I've found myself using them more and more. Quite a few of the cracks in that stuff seem to have hourglass shaped convolutions running along the length of the cracks, and many flare outward just a bit. Hexes seem to yield both faster and more secure placements in this sort of crack.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use both. The Curved Hexes are nice for parallel cracks because the "indent" catchs on the lip of the upper surface. The curved also works well when there are bulges and weird stuff in the crack. However, the sizing doesn't run as big as the BD's. Also the really small curved hexes suck! The BD are way better in the smaller sizes. Personally, I carry the largest curved, the largest BD, a few mid-sized curved and small BD's.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×