cuz Posted November 21, 2001 Posted November 21, 2001 My climbing buds and I are planning our annual week long ice climbing trip. This year we're heading to BC the week of President's day. None of us have ever climbed in BC, so I've started doing some research on the web to figure out what we're going to do before we actualy get there. As near as I can tell, Lillooet sounds like the place to go. I've seen a couple of guide books (West Coast Ice and Waterfall Ice) mentioned but I can't seem to find a place that sells them. Anyone know where I could get ahold of either of these guide books (or some other guide book that covers Lillooet)? Any good on-line resources or recommended climbs? Thanks, Cuz Quote
David_Parker Posted November 21, 2001 Posted November 21, 2001 You're on the right track! Patience will reward you. There are lots of climbers here to give you beta. Prepare yourself for wise-ass remarks but don't take them personally! The West Coast Ice by Don Serl (Merlin Productions publisher) should be readily available. If you can't find it in Seattle at a climbing store like Feathered Friends, Pro Mountain Sports or REI than you should have no problem finding one in Canada at MEC or like. Pray for a cold front! Quote
Lambone Posted November 21, 2001 Posted November 21, 2001 Check out the personal web page forum on this site. Also, check out the BC condition reports from last season on Bivuac.com, there are some nice photos to get you droolin! Feathered Friends is well stocked with West Coast Ice. Also, check out the Ice Fest this winter, see you up there If you have a full week, skip Lilooet and head to the Icefields PrkWy. [ 11-20-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote
CascadeClimber Posted November 21, 2001 Posted November 21, 2001 Alas, all the ice-related pages on bivouac have disappeared in the last several days. I'm hoping that they will return, new and improved... Oops. Or, yep, rather. The pages are back. They reorganized the site: http://casbc.bivouac.com/ice0001.htm [ 11-20-2001: Message edited by: CascadeClimber ] Quote
Lambone Posted November 21, 2001 Posted November 21, 2001 Nice, thanks for finding that Loren. Those Pic's get me through the day! Quote
EddieE Posted November 21, 2001 Posted November 21, 2001 If you're still taking suggestions on where to go, I would say head east for another few hours and get to Banff. The quality and abundance of routes there make it worth the trip...especially if you can spend a week there. Quote
Dru Posted November 21, 2001 Posted November 21, 2001 Stupid Canadian question: When is Presidents Day? Quote
AlpineK Posted November 21, 2001 Posted November 21, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Dru: Stupid Canadian question: When is Presidents Day? In February. We celebrate our most important presidents. Don't you guys have a holiday when you drink tea and eat crumpets and talk about the queen? Quote
Dru Posted November 21, 2001 Posted November 21, 2001 Check Lillooet weather at www.weatheroffice.ec.gc.ca before you go. In the event of warm temps (possible in Feb) Rockies would be a better choice for a wk of ice. From Oregon you could cut through east wash its probably only about 3 hrs more driving for maybe 700+ more routes? Not that Lillooet isnt rad but you might run out of stuff during a warm week and the after hours scene is way better in Canmore. OTOH if there is a real cold snap forget Lillooet and head to Whistler/Pemberton, lots of ice and pick up ski bunnies in the bars afterwards. Quote
Dru Posted November 21, 2001 Posted November 21, 2001 quote: Originally posted by AlpineK: In February. We celebrate our most important presidents. Don't you guys have a holiday when you drink tea and eat crumpets and talk about the queen? Victoria Day is in May. Better for rock climbing not as good for ice climbing. Hmmm. Celebrate Nixon and Clinton or a sexually repressed old lady that ruled half the world - I dont know which nation is stupider. Quote
James Posted November 21, 2001 Posted November 21, 2001 hey dru. last time i was at whistler for a ski trip with my wife i brought my tools and crampons in the hopes of finding something to boulder around on. although i wasn't looking aggressively, the few people i asked about ice climbing in the area looked at me like i was from another planet (or maybe just the US so where is the good climbing up there? Quote
Dru Posted November 21, 2001 Posted November 21, 2001 Good Whistler ice: 1) on Blackcomb, "Another Day at the Office" etc. WI3+ to M7+ routes. check Serl/Kay guidebook for location also see CAJ 1996 and 1997. 2) at Cal-chek south of Whistler, Moaning Tree Wall, 7 routes WI 2-4+, easy to TR, all half pitch, 5 minute walk approach. see 1996 CAJ and CASBC ice page. 3) north of whistler at Soo Bluffs. entropy classic 3 pitch WI 3 and more to WI 4+. 1 hour approach. 4) Wedgemount Lake trailhead area. WI 3-4 with longish approaches (2 hrs plus) see 1996-1999 CAJs 5) Green River walls. Near Suicide Bluffs in Whistler rock guide. mostly hard stuff and must cross unfrozen river 6) Rutherford Creek. need snowmobile. classic WI4s 7) Roe Creek S of whistler. also need snowmobile or long ski. no topos. WI 4 - M7 and harder 8) Birkenhead Valley. see Serl guide and above mentioned CAJs. paved road access. everything from 20m WI2s to THE PLUM ( 7 pitch *** WI5) 9) Eagle And Mole wall at base of Mt Currie across from nairn Falls park. tricky access. 5 pitch WI3-5s. see 96 CAJ 10) Green River Bastion. Classic, rarely formed Blue Moon on Rye - iced up offwidth. 5.9 M4 WI5. even rarer formed "Firryview Estates" and "Blue Moon on Guy" to L and R respectively. CAJ = Canadian Alpine Journal. Also check bivouac ice conditions page for conditions updates and new routes. Last years at http://casbc.bivouac.com/ice0001.htm New one will be up when a freeze happens. [ 11-21-2001: Message edited by: Dru ] [ 11-21-2001: Message edited by: Dru ] Quote
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