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Charlie

La Sportiva Trango S vs Makalu

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Anyone own the trango S? I have a pair of Makalus and they blow. I've had them about 5 years and I still get blisters on the back of my heels if I'm doing anything other than kicking steps. I use my mountain masters (sometimes with crampons hellno3d.gif)on most alpine climbs, but this just isn't practical on extensive snow. The Trango S seems to be a little softer and more pliable. I think part of my problem with the Makalu is their lace- lock system- I don't think they have this on the newer model. Any comments?lasp-trango-s.jpg

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8=D

 

Thanks. Actually, do they make a boot with a specific narrow heel? Because the length on my Makalu's are fine.

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Charlie said:

Anyone own the trango S? I have a pair of Makalus and they blow. I've had them about 5 years and I still get blisters on the back of my heels if I'm doing anything other than kicking steps. I use my mountain masters (sometimes with crampons hellno3d.gif)on most alpine climbs, but this just isn't practical on extensive snow. The Trango S seems to be a little softer and more pliable. I think part of my problem with the Makalu is their lace- lock system- I don't think they have this on the newer model. Any comments?lasp-trango-s.jpg

 

 

I have never used those but I have climbed with people that have.... They are similar to the trangos but lighter and cooler... But they suck at smearing

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Try and find a pair of trango extremes, the 2002 model, not the new trango extreme s. They only weigh 3.5lbs and are awesome. very warm, step in crampons for ice climbing, edging platform. pretty sweet winter boots!

Link

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Holy phuk! The best boots I have ever owned. I was just crack climbing and bouldering in them this weekend. They are light (2lbs, 6oz), totally waterproof, climb well, hike great with a pack on and I can't wait to try them with some crampons. No blister problems but I wear thick wool socks and if on a long trip poly pro liners. thumbs_up.gif

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I had the same blister problems with the Makalu. I switch to Nepal Extreme. 3 years no blisters and no problems besides I had them resoled last year.

 

Erick

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mountaineering__all_degree_hight_gtx_bl-carbon.jpgI ended up getting these- they don't look as cool as the La Sportivas, but they are soooo comfortable. Feels like your wearing tennis shoes! I can't believe how light these things are. Not too sure how dry they'll stay on a long snow slog...but long snow slogs suck anyway.

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Charlie,

 

I have a pair of the S's. I think they are great! So far I have used them for everything Glacier slogging, WI 5 Pillars, Aid climbing, and just hiking around. They kick ass.

 

Only drawback I have noticed is that they don't seem very durable. And they are not waterproof, this is a bit limiting, especialy around here.

 

...oh wait, just realized you got the other ones, what kind are those anyway? Hope they work out for you!

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Raichle all-degree high gtx. I'll test their waterproofness out on my solo enchantments loop expedition this weekend. Stay tuned for my slideshow and book signing I'll be hosting at the White Center Tavern afterward.

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Hey, I've had a pair of the Sportiva Karakorums for about two years but I've used them alot (need resoling already very badly). They're very similar to the Makalus but a little stiffer and higher. Personally, I think they're fantastic. I've used them for everything except very technical climbing. I even used them for a four day fifty mile backpacking trip! (although that tore my feet up pretty bad) The secret for me was to soak them in my bathtup for about three hours, then put them on and hike up Mount Si. Yes that hurt, but it completely broke them in and the only drawback was that I wasted the factory applied water resistance which was easily reapplied.

 

If you've had your boots for five years, they should already be pretty well broken in, but judging from what you've said, you've avoided using them whenever possible so this may still be of interest to you. The burlier Sportivas are notorious for being difficult to break in. Once they are broken in though, they are bombproof. That three hour soaking has had no noticable negative effects on the boots at all and after I get them resoled, they will probably last me many more years.

 

Also, most Sportivas are made for narrow feet. If your feet truly are too narrow for them, I don't know what to tell you.

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I picked up a pair of the Sportiva Lhotses for $200 on ebay -- heavy leather, duratherm/goretex, well-protected kevlar ankle cuff. They were overstock being sold by Down Wind Sports of Marquette MI. They had a few more pairs left if anyone's interested.

lglhotse02.jpg

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The Trango S boots rule IMO for what I use them for. Very light, fit medium to low volume feet very well

Dont like them much with crampons and steep traverses as they flex quite a bit. An awesome alpine boot though with weight and usability as the major factors

 

Now I just got to get my new Kayland's out for a trip sometime, seems like I've only used my lasers this whole year!

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I loved my S's with G14 crampons on steep water ice pillars, so I guess it's all relative. They feel like ice climbing in rock shoes...

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I'm a newbie ice gumby, but here is what I've got. I have to disagree with Lambone. I used LS Eigers for all my icy fun this season. They are supposed to be stiffer than the S's. I'm a pretty big guy, about 180 (I got fatter this year), with size 13/14 feet, so there is a lot of leverage on my boots. I found that I want stiffer boots. Yeah, they feel more dexterous than clonkers, but I couldn't put much weight on my feet while frontpointing, making me more pumped. My calves just couldn't take it. Even on moderate hard snow I often wish I had rigid boots. They do hike well, but they really don't climb, despite LS's claims to the contrary. I'm buying new boots next year.

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Cracked,

 

So were you using the Eiger or the S?

 

I'm not saying that the S is the best boot for Waterfall Ice climbing. All I can say is that I tried them and was very happy with how well they worked. I didn't notice any flex in the sole while frontpointing at all. But your right, with less ankle support they do require more calf energy. This didn't bother me until about the 4th day in a row of climbing in them.

 

They are perfect at places like Marble Canyon where there are lots of "footholds" hacked in the ice, or steep pilars that have lots of mushrooms and steps and slots for your feet. They are not great on smooth WI 3-4 flows where you end up frontpointing on every move. Its a lightweight boot that works well for dynamic ice climbing, nothing more, nothing less. Oh, and they need to be dried out each night, so I wouldn't use them for anything but "Ice Craggiing" when they can sit by the heater while I'm at the bar bigdrink.gif

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I was using the Eigers. I imagine that the two flex about the same. You're right, on heavily featured ice light boots work very well, and flex isn't as great an issue. Hey, whatever floats your boat... bigdrink.gifwave.gif

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Lambone said:

They are not great on smooth WI 3-4 flows where you end up frontpointing on every move.

use freedom technique

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