bchaps Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 Hey all, I'm planning on going to Yosemite in a couple weeks. Anyone know what the weather is generally like Late April/Early May? thanks! Oh, anyone interested in carpooling just send me a pm. Bill Quote
Lambone Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 It's snowing right now. My folks have a foot in Tahoe, but it will likely melt off by the weekend. Thats how it is down there in the Spring. The Sierras can get hit with nasty storms one day and have 80 degree temps and sun the next. Generaly it has been a very dry winter, so you might expect more spring storms, but who knows, it may stay dry. Point is, if you go you are likely to get some awsome climbing in because the temps can be great at that time. But be prepared for violent spring storms that typicaly only last a few days. Good news is that south facing stuff dries out VERY fast, and there is a ton of stuff to climb in the sun. Have fun! What routes you lookin at? Check http://supertopo.com for more info. Quote
bchaps Posted April 4, 2003 Author Posted April 4, 2003 Thanks for the info Lambone!! Here's the current tick list. It's sure to change depending on partner availability in Camp 4. East Buttress Serenity/Sons of Yesterday DNB - undecided Arches Reeds Pinnacle Pink Dream Crack of Doom Fatal Mistake if I can find a rope gun. I saw this crack from the road last fall and it was just beautiful. Cathedral Peak - depending on conditions and weather. And a wall (grade IV-V), but not sure what yet. I'll be going solo, so nobody even think of suggesting the leaning tower! 8) Quote
wayne Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 Ehmic is there now trying the Prow, She should post on her trip . I see weather hitting there now. Hopefully she got it sent early! Quote
Yos Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 Why not solo LT? One of the easiest solos should you link 5&6. Quote
Lambone Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 Great list, for 1 day routes you will be fine, things like Sons and Reeds get a full days worth of Sun so even if it does rain some you should get to climb them. Last year we wen't down over spring break in March to do a wall. We arived in 8 inches of snow and passed out in the car, only to awake with a full foot on the ground. My partner was pissed cause he thought we'd wasted alot of time and $. I told him not to worry. We drove over to the Leaning Tower and it was toataly dry! The next few days we climbed it in stellar weather, with huge sheets of ice crashing down all around us...it was surreal. LT is an awsome route, easy to solo and you can link almost every pitch, to make it only 6-7 pitches. WATCH OUT on Middle Cathedral. Check the route beta on http://supertopo.com for the East Butress. There was MAJOR rockfall in the Decent Gully. It is supposedly a hell death trap now with constant rockfall, loose scree, and broken bolts. People have almost gotten killed in there since then. I woudn't go near it for a couple of years, which sucks because the East But is so stellar. I'd recomend the routes on Higher Cathedral as an alternative. Braile Book is awsome and the North East Buttress is the best multi pitch 5.9 I've ever done, a true full day. Have a blast man I'm jealous, April/May is a great time to be in the Valley. Quote
mattp Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 I've been there twice at that time of year and did plenty of climbing each time. You CAN get snow or rain, and I had a pretty exciting time retreating from the wall when this happened to us on the Half Dome once in May, but the above statements that it can clear up and dry off quickly are right on. In my opinion, May is the best month of the year to go to the Valley because the waterfalls are roaring, the days are long, and the summer crowds have not quite hit yet. If you're there when the moon is full, check out the moonbow on Yosemite Falls. Quote
bchaps Posted April 4, 2003 Author Posted April 4, 2003 Yos said: Why not solo LT? One of the easiest solos should you link 5&6. Well, I was thinking of it. I just need to figure out a system for rap/cleaning full overhanging pitches. Rap-clean with a grigri would work, but there is that lovely swing into space to look forward too... I would just need to get comfortable with that. Thanks for all the info everyone!! Bill Quote
Lambone Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 bchaps, for pitches like the Big roof on LT, I would rap the haul-line down to the bag, cut the bag loose and clean while jugging the fixed lead chord. This would be much less of a stuggle then trying to pull yourself back under the roof. But you could maybe clean some of the other pitches on rappel. You would never have to do the big "cut loose" while soloing this route if you didn't want to. I think doing the friction moves up to Guano is the scariest part of the route. I've done it twice and both times had me totaly gripped with bogus shoes, sweaty hands and hella rope-drag. You can link 1+2, 3+4, 5+6, 7+8 or 8+9 or 9+10 easliy with a 60meter rope, especialy if soloing. The hauling is cake. Quote
Norsky Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 The DNB is totally friggin burly and sketchy (for me). The descent is trashed as stated above. Talk to Link the climbing ranger during sunday coffee if he still does it for all the beta you could dream of. Serenity/Sons is my personal favorite free climb. sooo cool after the first pin scars. Quote
bchaps Posted April 4, 2003 Author Posted April 4, 2003 Norsky - About DNB - It's on my undecided list. I'll probably error to the side of caution on that one, but I'll ask around when I get down there. Yes, Serenity was my favorite climb there too. I climbed it twice. Although I could never get anyone to continue on to sons... The difficulty was getting others to get up early so we could be up it before the sun hit... It felt like a frying pan once the sun came round. Quote
Lambone Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 Not to rain on your plans, cause it is good to shoot high... But the DNB seems to be one of those routes that folks do after spending a month in the valley ticking off all the standard grade IV's first. The Reg Route on Half Dome in a day would be a good primer for the DNB if you hope to avoid a bivi. You definately won't want to come down the gully in the dark, if you are crazy enough to go down it at all http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/gallery.html?r=yomceast&n=2 If you're feeling strong then go for it! If not your probably asking for an epic as many others have. As for me I've only heard the stories. I've spent hours in the meadow looking at it and am not even sure I have found the line. I imagine the route finding is serious buisness. The NE But on Higher is a super fun chalanging rout with sound rock and straightforward route finding(except for the last 3 pitches ). If you only have a short time I'd recomend it over the DNB. I apologize if you knew all that already, just trying to help set you up for a good trip. Quote
bchaps Posted April 4, 2003 Author Posted April 4, 2003 Great suggestion Lambone! I just looked it up in the book. NE Buttress it is! Quote
cj001f Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 bchaps said: Cathedral Peak - depending on conditions and weather. Do you mean Middle Cathedral? Cathedral Peak is in Tuolumne and is readily doable, after Tioga Pass road opens. Usually mid-May to Memorial Day lately. Quote
rr666 Posted April 4, 2003 Posted April 4, 2003 Boy am I jealous!!! Wish I could be in the valley for a couple of weeks. Hope you have a great time, which I am sure you will Quote
bchaps Posted April 4, 2003 Author Posted April 4, 2003 cj001f said: bchaps said: Cathedral Peak - depending on conditions and weather. Do you mean Middle Cathedral? Cathedral Peak is in Tuolumne and is readily doable, after Tioga Pass road opens. Usually mid-May to Memorial Day lately. Hey cj, I mean Cathedral Peak. Tuolumne is at 8-9000' +/- if I remember correctly. Depending on conditions - I'm not taking my skiis or anything - I would love to get out there and do it. Thanks for the head's up on the pass closure. I will check before I leave which passes are open/closed etc. Thanks for all the info everyone. I'm outta here - Taking my WFR starting tomorrow. Quote
Wallstein Posted April 5, 2003 Posted April 5, 2003 The descent off of middle cathedral has stabilized alot since the rockfall. I stayed away from it for a few months but went down it in October. Its not nearly as bad as everyone has said. It was very unstable after the rockfall due to heavy amounts of rain but is no worse now than it was before the rock fall. The rappel anchors were hit with rock fall but are still usable. Have a good time bill, see ya down there soon. Quote
chelle Posted April 7, 2003 Posted April 7, 2003 Wayne you spilled the beans... Had a great time there last week. Sorted gear for the route in 70 degree sun on Sunday, carried loads Monday and fixed a pitch, and by Tuesday weather was definately coming in. Wed 4 in snow. Didn't send that beautful line but learned a lot and had a blast. Next time. Spring weather in the Valley is fickle. Be prepared for anything. Also the East Butress of El Cap will likely be wet that time of year. Didn't read the whole thread so I don't know which EB you plan to do... Now back to school... Quote
W Posted April 7, 2003 Posted April 7, 2003 Ditto on Wallstein's report on the Middle Cathedral descent gully. I went down it twice last fall, there is some loose rock but just keep together with your partner and be aware if anyone is coming down above you. The rappel anchors are fine. Quote
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