torment-forbidden traverse

[flatland]

Is the rock pretty ice free by the first week in july?

[dberdinka]

Probably. However there are sections of steep glacial snow/ice that must be crossed. Be prepared for 50 degree terrain above big cliffs.

[flatland]

Thanks. I assume that the whole thing is done in boots, right?

[goatboy]

Like most people reading this thread, I haven't done the T-F Traverse. But I do like to carry rock shoes to move on long alpine rock ridges -- the security and efficiency of moving over class 5 rock in rock shoes is worth the added weight, to me, because I feel that I can climb so much quicker (and safer, assuming simul-climbing). If it were a ridge that went back and forth often between snow and rock, then it would seem more inefficient to stop and change footwear several times . . . But something like N Ridge Stuart or W Ridge Forbidden, I enjoy having my rock shoes on to move mo' fastah.

 

On the other hand, I totally support the argument that light is right and if you can cruise it in your approach boots, more power to you.

[dberdinka]

Climbing in rock shoes is definitely more fun than climbing in boots. However this route lends itself easily to boots. Rock is very blocky, with only a few low-5th sections, and there are many streches of sandy and/or grass covered ledges that might be more dangerous in rock shoes.

 

Whatever you do, go prepared for very exposed, steep hard snow. That section is the crux of the climb. Looked like it could be bypassed by filthy 5.8ish tower, but that's just a random conjecture.

[goatboy]

How long is this snow section, approximately (at least, when you encountered it)?

 

S

[Bob_Clarke]

Bring a second tool, a few pickets and you'll be allright. I soloed the traverse in a day and was one of the highlights of climbing last year.

 

If you're not confident on steep traversing snow - then consider practicing somewhere else. I would in no way would have wanted to have retreated from those sections.

 

It should be well clear of ice by July. Have fun.

[Terminal_Gravity]

I often use Five 10 sticky rubber approch shoes, like the guide almighty, and have never wished that I had rock shoes when climbing at a level that I feel comfortable free soloing on an alpine rock section. (I have sometimes wished that I didn't have the rock shoes in my pack.) Unless it's slab climbing I sometimes don't even bother taking off the comfy approach shoes on up to 5.10 when roped climbing. just my $0.02.

[flatland]

About the steep snow on the north side of the ridge - do you need rigid boots? Could the whole route be done in my flimsy 5.10 guide almighties?

[Colin]

Based off the dancing marshmallow, I'm not sure if that was just a jest at Terminal Gravity, but in case it was not...

 

I would highly reccomend taking boots that are atleast somewhat rigid (I used La Sportiva Makalu's). In June or July it might not be so bad, but by August the snowfield traverses might be quite icy (particularly this year). I did it in September, and had rigid boots, steel crampons, and one lightweight ice tool. I would have taken two ice tools if I'd known how steep and icy it was.

 

The steep snowfields can be avoided if you take the purist route and stay on the crest the entire time, but I don't know anyone who has done this and I imagine it would take much, much longer.

[flatland]

Thank you for the real info. I know, I know, my mom always warned me about hangin with the wrong crowd. Finding solace on a site full of spray has rubbed off and made me sound like a smart alec even when I'm serious.

[Lambone]

flaland,

 

A friend of mine did it in aproach shoes (some sort of 5.10's) and said that traversing the snow was scary. Your'd probly want something that is sort of a compromise between a Boot and rock shoes and some aluminum crampons.