Ratings

[Cpt.Caveman]

I think it was Boving too. Well if you say it is harder than many other 11c's I will take your word on that dude. I would be standing in my aiders on it anyway....

[Peter_Puget]

Wallstein -

ROTC was done in the '70s I believe. It's a great climb but I do not think it is any where near 5.12. Haven't done the Left Side. I have done the thin crack pitches to the left of Kaukulator. Isn't one of those the section on Blind Faith you're referring to? They are all good climbs but I wouldnt agree that any are 5.12 tho. I could think of lots of other Yosemite examples. For instance: Tips. Here is one where perhaps cams arent quite as helpful: Torque Converter.

Any way my point wasn't directed at any climb per se but rather a general statement regarding advances in technology changing the difficulty of routes.

[Wallstein]

Peter-

I don't believe any of these routes are 5.12 either. I have only done one 5.12 trad climb in my life and it was a hell of a lot harder than any of the routes being discussed.

[sexual_chocolate]

What is this attempt at control over the content of topics?

I started a post about Central America and it's political situation, and it was erased! It seems like something relevant, as many of us travel to that area of the world. ( Topics about beer-drinking abound! Is that somehow more relevant?)

 

Moderators, please explain yourselves! Willy-nilly removal of topics will discredit this forum, and eventually be counter-productive to your aims. (Whatever they may be....)

[Bronco]

look under spray you dancing wierdo.

[sexual_chocolate]

Bronco, you're dancing for me!!!!

It's not Moondancing, but I'll have another drink , and there might be a healthy tip if you continue to dance....

Come on, baby!!!!

[Bronco]

you're scaring me - not really, but you are making me uncomfortable.

[sexual_chocolate]

Hey, your first twenty dollar tip will change all your discomfort into pure joy and happiness!

[sexual_chocolate]

(I can tell this is your first time...?)

[Dru]

Look out Bronco SC is trying to seduce you!! Keep that Monty half-full over there!

SC, you cant send him sweet nothings by PM and the rest of us wont have to suffer through it

[jon]

Back to topic.

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by jon:

Back to topic.

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5.12 spray spray 5.11c nerble nerble 5.8++ sandbag gimmee soft hard hangdog sport trad blah blah

[Cpt.Caveman]

Overview:

We decided ROTC was 5.9 = WallsteinDamnation was 5.8 = CavemanPeter Puget is the overall decision man Dru will spray on everyone including the moderatorsCaveman will still post stupid responsesSexual Chocolate came out of the closet and gives lapdances aka the Moondance

[ 11-06-2001: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

[pope]

Dru, thanks for the fascinating history behind the Split Pillar's Left Side ("I'm the Grand Wazoo. Fu@k you if you don't like my hat!"). Also, mentioning Midnight Rock, isn't the most difficult move on ROTC about 5.10c/d? And does anyody know if Supercrack has received a second ascent?

[willstrickland]

Supercrack is the 5.12 OW out a roof? I'm also interested to know if it ever got repeated (looks like a awesome trainer for the Owl Roof and those nasty OW pitches on Excaliber). Anybody know what size (hand/fist stack, knee, etc)

[Peter_Puget]

Dru - Sad to hear Slipping Clutch is dirty. I climbed it when it was new and very clean. It was the first route on which I used Fires to climb and the new rubber (compared to EBs that is) was amazing.

The OW is not thru a roof and does not resemble any of the OW you mention. The route arches to right and becomes almost an arm bar undercling. (as if that makes much sense)I guess there might be various way to climb it tho.

[sexual_chocolate]

But has it been repeated?

[Peter_Puget]

Yes

[Cpt.Caveman]

So Peter what do you rate Supercrack at? Is it really 5.12?

[Peter_Puget]

Good question Cavey! The answer of course is a contingency. Are you a traditional trad climber? A neo-trad climber? A traditional sport climber? A steep sport climber? A reformed steep sport climber now traditional climber? A crosswalk table is currently under development which will be easily incorporated into all guidebooks enabling quick and easy rating decoding. Of course the software needed to perfectly determine your archetype will be available at a small charge as well. Details forthcoming!

[Cpt.Caveman]

quote:

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Originally posted by Peter Puget:

Good question Cavey! The answer of course is a contingency. Are you a traditional trad climber? A neo-trad climber? A traditional sport climber? A steep sport climber? A reformed steep sport climber now traditional climber? A crosswalk table is currently under development which will be easily incorporated into all guidebooks enabling quick and easy rating decoding. Of course the software needed to perfectly determine your archetype will be available at a small charge as well. Details forthcoming!

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Werd up Yo! I am the neonazi-antigay-iwannariot-kickyaindaballs-mybeergutisbiggerdanyers climber. So where does that put me? I await your holiness to bless me into a category

[Peter_Puget]

Cavey! Please! Serious replies only! Placing someone into their correct archetype is a difficult combination of both science and art. Only a fraud would attempt to do so over the internet.

I must admit that the intent behind your allusion to the Pope is difficult for me to fully understand. Is it a compliment or a subtle insult?

[Cpt.Caveman]

I wuz plum drowin' some mo'e nonsense out dere t'see where ya' are comin' fum.

http://www.shortbus.net/dialect.html

[Dru]

Who repeated Supercrack?

[haireball]

amongst the spray on this t'read are several nuggets of real information:

1) it was pointed out that after you've climbed in an area for a season or two, you can pretty much eyeball a line and guess its difficulty pretty closely - having climbed multiple seasons in every western mountain state except Montana, I'd have to agree (subject to the proviso that your unlikely to guess the difficulty of a route significantly above your own standard...)

2) sticky rubber, active protection units (not just cams...)and body configuration can make an enormous difference. back in the 70's, I climbed regularly with a woman whose hands were a fraction of the size of mine; a 5.9 finger-crack for her was an aid-crack for me, while a 5.9 fist crack for me equated to a 5.11 o/w for her - made for a helluva strong team...

so - very often the only rating that would be accurrate for both of us was 5.phooey!