[TR] Despair (south peak) - East / SE side 09/12/2025

[JonParker]

Trip: Despair (south peak) - East / SE side

Trip Date: 09/12/2025

Trip Report:

 

Strained pulley + nice forecast -> scramble somewhere new. South peak of Despair was my solution.

 

As a late season climb it works pretty well. Not the most classic of routes though. Has more than its share of loose talus, and it’s a little stingy with views. For all the vertical and time involved, most of it is not very high, and wrapping around tall walls keeps much of the neighbors hidden.

Started out dodging cones the squirrels were busily raining down.

From Thornton lake it’s not obvious where to start heading up. I think all options would involve a little brush. Nice slabs are not far away. 

On my return I ended up a little farther skier’s right where there is some weird sandy gritty knobby sloping geology for several hundred feet.

From the pass at 6150’ clouds blew in to obscure the way, which was pretty tedious talus side hilling. I did two different variations to and from the steep creek, each involving 300 vertical feet of shwacking, and both fairly bad. Maybe getting into the creek higher up would have been better. I traversed out of it into woods at 4660’. Another series of steep parallel dry stream beds led to Triumph pass.

The snow and ice north of Triumph pass was not as easy to avoid as I had guessed from recent satellite imagery. At first I tried to cut though it to get to slabs on the left side. Though low angle it was down to pure slippery ice. Dirt patches initially provided traction but I dead ended when these ran out. Headed back up and off to slabs higher up. These slabs skiers left of the snow are of course dirty and exposed but fortunately featured enough to keep it at about 4th class. After the slabs the easiest way was to cross the steam back to the right, and then left once more at the bottom near the lake. On my return the next day I was able to avoid the exposed ice entirely by climbing the slabs farther past that stuff.

In the traverse to the higher lake below Despair I came across two running streams, filled up at the first. Dropped the overnight gear at the lake and headed up to the east end of the peak. Took a pretty direct line near the ridge on the way up, and took easier and cleaner slabs on the SE aspect on the return. 

The next day I simply had to return to the trailhead without wiping out too hard on any of the loose talus. 

Hidden tunnel

and weird negative column probably 15-20’ deep

The steep creek with steep woods to its west and shwacking to its east.

Impressive south face of Triumph, I wonder if there are any good routes.

Safe to say there were millions of huckleberries in the basin at least. I find it hard to move efficiently in conditions like these.

Cool lenticulars this day

Gear Notes:
One pole

Approach Notes:
Thornton lake then off trail

Edited 14 hours ago by JonParker

[JasonG]

I've always wondered about going in that area but it seemed tedious....thanks for the report! 

Some beautiful images with that evening light....we have an impressive backyard.

For some reason, I have really noticed the lack of seasonal snow in the North Cascades this summer.  It is a bit sad compared to what late season looked like in the 90s.  But, still a very beautiful neck of the woods.

[olyclimber]

Tedious! 😂.  If tedious is the bar to get those views, sign me up for tedious.

[plexus]

19 hours ago, JasonG said:

I've always wondered about going in that area but it seemed tedious....thanks for the report! 

Some beautiful images with that evening light....we have an impressive backyard.

For some reason, I have really noticed the lack of seasonal snow in the North Cascades this summer.  It is a bit sad compared to what late season looked like in the 90s.  But, still a very beautiful neck of the woods.

I was thinking the exact same thing Jason.

Jon, I was seeing what you use for satellite imagery? This past season I used OpenSnow for backcountry skiing. But not sure if I want to renew my sub again.

[JonParker]

I’ve been using https://browser.dataspace.copernicus.eu

[lunger]

Agree, purty pics, thanks for posting!  Sounds like your gamble to not pack the pointy bits paid off.

Your TR evokes good memories of that beautiful area -- have been back there a couple of times, and agree that in the summer the Thornton Lakes --> Triumph Pass part of the approach qualifies as tedious. The pilgrim pays the price...

[JonParker]

Yeah it’s not great but not like Cascadian couloir level of tedium. Don’t wanna discourage the interested