Luna Col to East Fury route question

[huwhatwhen]

First time poster, not sure if this is the right subforum to ask this. Sorry if this doesn't belong here.

Seems like there are one of two ways to do the traversal from Luna Col to the South Fury Glacier.

1. The SummitPost page suggests traversing E/SE of the ridge.

2. Beckey and many trip reports I've seen suggest staying on the ridge and taking the red ledges and the class 4/5 "Crux Tower."

Based on just the route descriptions, I'd assume that the first route that stays below the ridge would be the easier/preferred option, but it seems like every recent trip report that I've seen from the past 4+ years all stay on the ridge (and climb the Crux Tower without ropes). What makes my assumption wrong here? Why is the ridge route better/more popular than the route that stays below the ridge? I'm grabbing a copy of Selected Climbs in the Cascades Vol 2 pretty soon which I hope will give me some more insight on the ridge route but I'd also like to hear the input of others.

 

Thanks!

Edited May 28 by huwhatwhen
add clarity about the specific section of the route

[JasonG]

You're in the right spot! 

It has been a few years since I've traversed from Luna Col to Fury but I have done it a few times, including one-way coming down from Fury on a traverse and don't remember it being very difficult to figure out on the fly.

I remember sticking fairly close to the ridge and then bypassing a steep section on the west side, on a prominent ledge.  Here is a view looking toward Luna Col:

[JasonG]

So yeah, I suppose I've followed the Beckey beta....but you'll do just fine if you're into the Pickets thing.

[bedellympian]

Full disclosure: I have not been on Luna or done the traverse to East Fury. However, based on other experiences in the Pickets, my first thought is that as snow cover melts away and choss/scree is exposed the ridge becomes a more appealing option. But that could be off-base.

[traildirt]

Last year we faced this going the opposite direction as well (fury to Luna col). And the section right before reaching the col was tricky. I think that’s what you’re talking about?
 

I think this shows the area right behind JasonG’s photo ? 

We had no beta and just from looking at it it seemed too chossy and ~5th class for us and no rock gear. We dropped down towards Luna lake wrapped around about 6400, though in hindsight the line at about 6700probably would have gone with class 3 or less.

the whole detour took about an hour 

[JonParker]

When I was there in early July of last year I took #1 from Fury to Luna. It is briefly on the glacier. Crossed a rib at 6600’, bottoming out at 6400’ before reascending to the pass that rejoins the ridge line at 7000’. Was a bit steep and slippery crossing the rib. Think I’ve seen gpx that cross the rib a little lower.

@tanstaafl might be able to comment on route #2