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Posted (edited)

First time poster, not sure if this is the right subforum to ask this. Sorry if this doesn't belong here.

Seems like there are one of two ways to do the traversal from Luna Col to the South Fury Glacier.

1. The SummitPost page suggests traversing E/SE of the ridge.

2. Beckey and many trip reports I've seen suggest staying on the ridge and taking the red ledges and the class 4/5 "Crux Tower."

Based on just the route descriptions, I'd assume that the first route that stays below the ridge would be the easier/preferred option, but it seems like every recent trip report that I've seen from the past 4+ years all stay on the ridge (and climb the Crux Tower without ropes). What makes my assumption wrong here? Why is the ridge route better/more popular than the route that stays below the ridge? I'm grabbing a copy of Selected Climbs in the Cascades Vol 2 pretty soon which I hope will give me some more insight on the ridge route but I'd also like to hear the input of others.

 

Thanks!

Edited by huwhatwhen
add clarity about the specific section of the route
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Posted

You're in the right spot! 

It has been a few years since I've traversed from Luna Col to Fury but I have done it a few times, including one-way coming down from Fury on a traverse and don't remember it being very difficult to figure out on the fly.

I remember sticking fairly close to the ridge and then bypassing a steep section on the west side, on a prominent ledge.  Here is a view looking toward Luna Col:

2019S-NPickets%20Traverse63100-X2.jpg

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