Mt. Hunter

[Alasdair]

Does anyone who has climbed Hunter, or has first hand knowlege have any Beta. What I am looking for mainly is what time of year is likely to have the best conditions. The last time I was in this area, Hunter got no asents due to conditions, but several weeks later saw several successfull attempts. In otherwords does Hunter tend to be more climbable in early spring or closer to the summer.

Alasdair

[DPS]

I climbed Hunter the first week of June. Conditions were perfect. We climbed a route on the south side and I know a group that did the Moonflower during the same time period over on the north side.

[genepires]

Conditions for Hunter?

I've only been there one season but I'll say what I saw. There were lots of people heading to do moonflower in the latter half of may. People where trying the west buttress too. By early June, moonflower was pretty vacant. I think lots of the ice are gone. The W buttress should be ok in june though.

But a question was lurking in my head. What do you call "in condition". As far as snow conditions go, the snow pack will never get like the cascade's summer pack. The snow just gets from fluffy to mushy and then stays that way till the end of the summer season. (due to the intense long sun, dry snow, ect ect) The snow should be firm above 10,000 ft due to wind blowing scouring. At the bases though be ready for long post holing.

I am thinking of trying the west buttress (as well as other things too) next season. So if anybody is interested,then drop me a line.

gene

[genepires]

Conditions for Hunter?

I've only been there one season but I'll say what I saw. There were lots of people heading to do moonflower in the latter half of may. People where trying the west buttress too. By early June, moonflower was pretty vacant. I think lots of the ice are gone. The W buttress should be ok in june though.

But a question was lurking in my head. What do you call "in condition". As far as snow conditions go, the snow pack will never get like the cascade's summer pack. The snow just gets from fluffy to mushy and then stays that way till the end of the summer season. (due to the intense long sun, dry snow, ect ect) The snow should be firm above 10,000 ft due to wind blowing scouring. At the bases though be ready for long post holing.

I am thinking of trying the west buttress (as well as other things too) next season. So if anybody is interested,then drop me a line.

genepires@hotmail.com

[Alex]

Hunter typically comes in closer to Summer, April and early May are more unsettled and unpredictable. Though to get good freezing conditions you should go as early as you are able

Alex

[wayne]

If I may speak for my friend Alasdair, I think he specificaly means the West ridge. And the question is , is the route better in may or June? Thanx.w

[W]

Alasdair,

I climbed the West Ridge in late April several years ago. In my experience, and through many stories, after mid May the west ridge snow usually turns poor. It will also depend on the amount of snowfall of the previous winter. It almost seems that the conditions for the route are predetermined at the start of the year- some years it is really good, others terrible. If it is bad, no amount of waiting will work and you should run away. The first section of the route can be extremely dangerous in poor snow conditions, and the cornice climbing will be both difficult and dangerous.

In late April we found great conditions- the snow happened to be consolidated due to a mild winter snowpack and recent stable weather, and the cornices were nicely frozen in place- although they still should be given a wide berth.

Personally, I would shoot for late April to no later than late May for this route. June is generally too warm in my opinion for routes in the Alaska Range at lower elevations that involve lots of snow climbing.

If you want more specific beta send me a PM.

[stillclimbing]

I was on Hunter twice, in 1985 and 1987, and did the Northwest Spur which connected with the West Ridge above the rock step. Both times we started around May 20th. On one of the trips, we ended up invoved in a rescue, got 4' of snow dumped on the route in 2 days, and ended up on the mountain for 12 days. The other time, we had clear, cold weather for 3 days and then got dumped on again.