stillclimbing

I climbed LR the second week of August in 1999 with a climbing buddy from Anchorage. Crevasses were wide open and getting on to the ridge was a challenge. It was an ice climb all the way from Thumb Rock to the Cap. The first day my partner was hit by a large rock right below Thumb Rock which shattered his boot, foot fang and broke his foot. We ended up finishing the climb (my climbing partner is an RN and had lots of pain pills) and spending a night on Liberty Cap. We hiked out all the way on the third day. The good news was we were the only ones on the route and the ice climbing was great.

I was on Hunter twice, in 1985 and 1987, and did the Northwest Spur which connected with the West Ridge above the rock step. Both times we started around May 20th. On one of the trips, we ended up invoved in a rescue, got 4' of snow dumped on the route in 2 days, and ended up on the mountain for 12 days. The other time, we had clear, cold weather for 3 days and then got dumped on again.

Myself and another climber are planning a climb on Mt. Hayes in the Alaska Range at the end of May. Anyone out there actually been on the mountain? I am looking for beta on any of the routes. I have been climbing in Alaska since the early 80's, but info on Hayes is scarce.