[TR] Mount Watson- West Peak - North Arete 07/16/2024

[JasonG]

Trip: Mount Watson- West Peak - North Arete

Trip Date: 07/16/2024

Trip Report:

 

I want to thank @dberdinka for turning @Trent and myself on to this interesting and highly scenic climb on Mount Watson. I am sure I wouldn't have known about it otherwise and details on it are scarce.  Actually details from @dberdinka were scarce too, but that's the way we like it.  I knew how to get there and the rest would sort itself out, right?

 

As expected, the approach to the north side of Watson was short and quick.  It is a rather complex mountain with multiple summits and ridges, but we identified the only feature we felt @dberdinka would want to climb (a striking and clean buttress that sweeps up to the westerly summit), stepped off the snow, and did some solid scrambling to a ledge.  @Trent took the first lead on easy fifth and slightly runout sold slabby rock to a wide ledge.

I took the next lead up the steepening buttress, wandering to the right side to find gear and stretching the rope a full 60m to find some cracks I could garden for gear.  Fun climbing to mid fifth on generally sound and slabby rock.  This brought us to the slightly lower west summit of Watson.

But, like many obscure routes in the North Cascades it isn't a gimme and we chuckled as we scratched our heads on the west summit for an "easy" way off.  Ultimately, we did some very exposed scrambling down towards the col with the true summit.  The col was a gash, and we did a short rap into it off of a block slung with cord.  We changed back into boots and did some brush bashing and branch aiding to the true summit. 

Looking back at the route and West summit of Watson, we could see why @dberdinka had recommended it (it was fun too).  Look at it!

You can walk off the true summit of Watson and a bit of snow travel brings you around and down to the climber's path and the Anderson/Watson trail.  A fun and short day out in the North Cascades!

 

Gear Notes:
Ice axe, crampons, light rack to 3". 60m rope was handy to reach ledges. Rock shoes are nice for the slabby rock

Approach Notes:
Anderson/Watson trail to climber's path that heads to Watson (or the Bacon Hagan Blum traverse). Find the obvious buttress on the west peak of Watson and step off the snow.

[Phil K]

Cool area, and very scenic. Having been up there, it can be a bit confusing. We checked out that face thinking it might be the main summit. It looked like fun, but it sure didn't seem like anything I was ready to solo. The actual summit from the E is a pretty reasonable scramble.

 

[dberdinka]

It’s Das Toof of the North Cascades, kid you not.  It’s possible to climb the crest very directly on surprisingly good, compact somewhat runout rock that’s maybe 5.6.

[JasonG]

It is! We stayed mostly on the crest but I did detour a few feet right on the second pitch for gear and a belay

[plexus]

Good on you guys. I remember years ago getting to the base of that thing in late September. When I was racking up it began snowing... and didn't stop until the next May. Always wondered how that climb went and how good the rock quality was. Say hi to @Trent for me.