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Middle Fork Snoqualmie (Tin Cup Joe Falls): Delirium Tremens 5.9+

Tom Beirne

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28 Aug 2023 @Tom Beirne @Doug_Hutchinson Jason Niebler

A survival climb, with interesting moves masquerading behind a feral crag, unwilling the be tamed. You can go in with all the iron and cams you want, but the flakes will flex and handholds turn to kitty litter. We were lucky to depart the falls before dusk, when it's rumored that Tin Cup Joe emerges with hatchet in hand and menaces trespassers.  

This rock appeared visually the cleanest in the area, especially compared to the rock immediately above the lower falls. The higher we trespassed, the lower the quality. This TR is intended to serve as a placeholder for the curious, and in our case, the stupid. This applies to the visible cliffs above the first falls all the way up to the upper slabs: don't bother. Picture below: first rock cliff above Tin Cup, lookin' sus. 



Don't approach. Turn around, do something else.

Take the standard trail shown on Gaia up to the falls, then cross just prior to the first falls. A very faint trail can be barely followed left of the falls for a few hours. Cross both falls climber right and head towards the upper slabs, which you glimpses of during creek crossings.


P1 5.7 40m to gear anchor belay on decent ledge. Begin up easy 5.7 slabs, through some shrubbery, and turn the lip of an awkward layback to the belay.


P2 5.9+ 40m to hanging tree belay. Move belay to on top of tree with #1,2,3 crack directly above. Trend up and right through balance ledges through the green patch, and into the chimney for fun short boulder problem. Protects well in the chimney.


P3 5.6 30m left trending diagonal traverse to visible tree. Couple pro options down low, none after about 15m. Mind the house of cards.


RAP: Two Successive double 60m raps, each from stalwart pines.

Apologies to the mountain gods for this transgression, we will seek absolution through worthy missions ASAP. 

Ps, Happy Birthday Jason, hope you liked your gift.

Edited by Tom Beirne
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