Torment-forbidden: boots or shoes?

[justuszimmerman]

Hi all—I’m looking to do the Torment-Forbidden Traverse early August and wondering if it’s worth bringing light mountain boots or approach shoes and strap on crampons would be adequate. Any thoughts or guiding philosophies on this most welcome. 
 

thanks!

[robertm]

When I did it I used GTX adidas mid top light hiking boots with aluminum strap on crampons.   I appreciated a bit more support of the mid-tops vs. low top trail shoe as there is some steep snow between Torment and Forbidden that you will need to dispatch.  

[JasonG]

I'd use light mountain boots.  The snow traverse in August will be decidedly less fun in approach shoes and all the rock climbing on the traverse goes just fine in boots.  But, then again, I'm a dinosaur and hardly ever use approach shoes for Cascades climbs. 

I'm not totally against approach shoes, however.  They are great for other ranges but I find the brush, talus, and snow of the Cascades makes light boots a better choice for most classic mountaineering objectives.

[mthorman]

There are several steep snow traverses and the later in the year the worse the conditions typically (harder snow/ice).  I did it in late July and was very happy with my light mountain boots and contact strap crampons and 1 ax.  If I were going in late June or early July I would probably consider just using approach shoes.  Anytime in August and I would definitely bring some kind of light boot.

[justuszimmerman]

Brilliant--thank you all for the comments. It will be my first time climbing in the Cascades (mostly done Sierras, Rockies, and the Whites in New Hampshire)--very helpful!

[JasonG]

You're in for a treat if you get the weather and permit:

[Kameron]

That's a great persepective on the E ridge!

[justuszimmerman]

Swinging back to this--anyone have an opinion on the route in mid-September? Shorter days and more ice, but still wonderful?

[JasonG]

Mid September you'll need to stay on the rock to avoid blue ice on the ice traverse, or so I've heard.  I hear it goes fine though.  You could have a bit of fresh snow here and there depending on the year, or it could be warm and dry.  But this route is climbable across a wide season.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

snow has melted fast this year.  maybe push it up into July?

 

[justuszimmerman]

Unfortunately July isn't an option--first week in August is when the stars align. Still sticking to rock at that point?

[JonParker]

On 6/27/2023 at 5:48 AM, justuszimmerman said:

Unfortunately July isn't an option--first week in August is when the stars align. Still sticking to rock at that point?

The snow might still go by then, hard to say. Having done the snow traverse, I suspect sticking to rock is more fun, unless you just really like snow.

[justuszimmerman]

Ah, sounds good (and easier to plan for). Thanks!!

[christinium]

Hello! I am planning on doing this the second week of August (in 1-1.5 weeks), wondering if anyone has more current updates on snow conditions. Thanks and happy mountaining!

[justuszimmerman]

There’s no snow in the hidden gully approach to torment. I got suckered off route by rap tat (or my poor routefinding…) and ended up bailing before the traverse itself, so no idea how the snow looks on the rest of the route, sorry. Stay left on torment!