RuMR Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 Hey Tex/JK... A good rule of thumb (for me) is to only stay at a rest long enough until your breathing is normal, any longer and you'll start taxing muscles instead of resting them...I've found a quick shake in between each movements works well, and even micro-shifts of your fingers to relieve some stress there too (you know, trying to find a slight pinch for your thumb to help your forearms a bit) The other thing, try to absolutely sprint through hard sections and then camp at bigger holds. A british climber summed up this philosophy by saying "Holds are your enemy and the anchor is your friend! I don't like to spend time w/ my enemy!" Another way to get better endurance is to get your power base up (I sound like a broken record). Moffat once said "Endurance routes only get easier with time, a hard power move is a hard power move. If you are weak, you'll fall off before you have anything to endure!" or something to that effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 okay, so I recognize that I have to get my arse moving but do you think lifting is helpful or can i get what I need from the wall as far as strength training goes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 (edited) Lifting weights is the best way to pick up actual muscular strength...there are studies now that actually show its more effective in reducing body fat than cardio training alone as well. It should be noted that a reduction in body fat doesn't necessarily mean a reduction in overall weight though. Personally, i'd rather be at the "right" weight than an exceedingly light weight. I find i don't get sick as often and sleep better as well...To me, lean body mass is more important than the weight on the scale...plus, i'm getting old, so metabolism is slowing down and the way to counteract that is to pack on muscle mass...I'm still a small guy though, due to a light build... It never ever hurts to be strong. Plus, climbing trashes your fingers quickly, much more quickly than "heavier" muscles like shoulders, chest and upper back. The net result of climbing only is your grip is giving out before you've sufficiently worked the entire machine!! These are my thoughts...but, as everyone knows, everybody has their own training philosophies and mine are tailored due to the fact that i have limited time (job, spouse, kids, other fun) to actually go rockclimbing and I'm trying to achieve general fitness as well as climbing fitness...The good doctor amazing's recommendation for a little bit of running is a good idea on "down" days as well... Plus...and this is why i'm beating on my wife to do resistance training...for women, its been shown that resistance training (weights) slows and helps to prevent osteoporosis... Edited February 21, 2003 by RuMR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 DAMN well if I can thrutch arround on .9's in crappy shape without realy training, I wonder what will happen if I actualy train there may be some hope yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 You'll be busting out 5.12's soon enuff!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 RuMR said: You'll be busting out 5.12's soon enuff!!! that would be sweet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 you should check out Courtenay's www.bodyresults.com page. There are tons of ideas there for training routines. here's some more http://www.climbingwalls.net/performance_training.html http://www.climbingwalls.net/endurance_training.htm http://www.8a.nu/eng/articles/contacttime2.shtml Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted February 21, 2003 Author Share Posted February 21, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Now quit geeking on the internet and go train. Come to think of it, I could throw a hangboard up over a doorway at work... Any opinions on those things? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 fern said: you should check out Courtenay's www.bodyresults.com page. There are tons of ideas there for training routines. here's some more http://www.climbingwalls.net/performance_training.html http://www.climbingwalls.net/endurance_training.htm http://www.8a.nu/eng/articles/contacttime2.shtml thanks Fern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 http://www.planetfear.com/climbing/training/neilgresham/ng_boulderingforstrength.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 and, if you are serious and willing to lay down some $$$...this guy's a real bad a$$ http://www.jollypower.com/jollyhomeI.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 I am not as much of a fan of the rings as I am of the fingerboard. Since you already have a membership at the gym, I would use theirs. I also find that bouldering gives me the confidence to make moves while on lead thT I may not otherwise have tried. It doesn't do much for my endurance though, and have found myslef getting sucked into the comraderie and social side of the bouldering scene at the gym, only to find out that I can't lead anything longer than 60 ft! Finding the mix is best, building strength, endurance by doing laps and a little bouldering and also traverses (similar to laps) until you can no longer hold onto the largest buckets in the gym......Then repeat everything above! I'm right there with ya Jason. See you in the gym Monday? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 "What are some strategies for milking reserves? It seems footwork would help, in that it saves energy by keeping your weight off your arms and saves time because you don't have to put your foot back on after it slips off six times. I'm sure speed would help (I think I tend to climb too slow), but not at the expense of good form. And not putting a death-grip on every hold... " DINGDINGDINGDING! You've obviously onto the key elements here. Speed is indeed your friend, especially when you're redpointing and you're getting a strategy dialed in for the route. Indeed, keep your good form, but blitz whatever parts of the route you can. Figuring out if you can skip a bolt or clip two bolts from a higher stance (y'know, if you're climbing some dumb overbolted sport route ), make a couple bigger moves to skip some lousy holds, that type of thing. Combining necessary non-climbing movements is good too, i.e. when you get to a good clip stance, say, hit your chalk, get your quick shake, reach up to clip, and just keep reaching from the clip right to the next hold, rather than clipping, dropping back to the hold, and then moving. One of the Doctor's favorite speed-'em-up strategies is eliminating intermediate foot movements; i.e. if you're making a reach to a handhold and you step up with your foot but for the next move you're going to switch to a backstep, or switch feet or something, try using the 2nd foot placement first so you don't have to move the foot again. Often you can initiate a move with a foot placement that's slightly awkward, but once you're into the move and ready for the next one, you'll have saved yourself some effort overall. A small thing, but it's just one more way to stack the deck in your favor, and with all the other little strategical stuff, it'll add up to mo' sendage. RuMR's beta on shaking between moves is spot-on, too. Every little thing you can do to be a little more efficient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 jkrueger said: Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Now quit geeking on the internet and go train. Come to think of it, I could throw a hangboard up over a doorway at work... Any opinions on those things? DFA would say more power to you if you can be a good guy and use the thing. The Doctor's experience with hangboards, home walls, etc. has been that they get used for a little while, and then they get seriously boring. If you're the kind of person who can stick with something like running or weight training, then a hangboard could do you some good. Maybe if you are just miserably bad on slopers or something, it's good to work a specific like that on a hangboard. Otherwise, shit, stick to going to the gym and having fun and climbing. It's hard to get psyched to do pullups, but getting in on a bouldering sesh and pushing yourself to yard on some jingus tweaker holds is far more motivating. Plus, you're not going to pick up much technique on a hangboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted February 21, 2003 Author Share Posted February 21, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Plus, you're not going to pick up much technique on a hangboard. I was thinking I might work on the hangboard heel-hook to mantle move... Oh, and you're up to 3 beers now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 Y'know, after thinking about it some more, DFA is mostly just down on hangboard training 'cause he's lazy with that sort of thing. Really, like all the various things you can work on to get better, it's a matter of taste and what works for you. If you are needing to work various grips or lockoffs or whatever, then fuckin' hangboard like there's no tomorrow. If you wanna get psyched to be a hangboard fiend, go to climbxmedia.com and look for the footage of Dave Graham doin' his thing on the hangboard. It'll either get you way stoked or make you never want to look at a hangboard again, knowing that you will never in your life be able to do anything remotely close to what DG pulls off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted February 21, 2003 Author Share Posted February 21, 2003 Just thinking that if I had a hangboard at the office, I might actually use it when I walked by. I bet that 5 minutes here and 5 minutes there would amount to something over time! Just concerned that I might tweak a finger trying to go aggro on the thing -- which would end up being more harmful than beneficial. After all, I can get another cam for the price of a hangboard! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 Just be smart about it and don't do a bunch of crimping. Work on open-handed grips and slopers and you'll be safe. Cam = 3 quickdraws! Oh, and the Dave Graham hangboard thing on climbx is the feature for February 6th called 'Small Amazing Things'. Ch-ch-ch-check it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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