[TR] Mont Blanc Massif - Arête du Diable 07/11/2022

[Kyle M]

Trip: Mont Blanc Massif - Arête du Diable

Trip Date: 07/11/2022

Trip Report:

During my mostly hiking vacation to the Alps, I had an impromptu linkup with none other than @drdirtbag himself, tagging 6 4000m peaks in the Mont Blanc Massif. I was scrolling through Strava when I noticed he was biking in the Alps and sent him an email. It turns out he needed a rope and partner for the most technical peaks in the 4000m list, so we had a match! I rented crampons for my running shoes and an ice ax and took the tram up...

The climb is more of a ridge traverse with five independent towers, separated by rappels. The final climb to the summit of Mont Blanc de Tacul is just a long scramble. The actual climbing was on excellent granite and generally no harder than 5.8, with one definite crux on the final tower. The scale and drama of the setting was truly magnificent. It was an incredible experience to get to actually try my hand at real ALPine climbing. Just challenging enough, but generally relaxing and never stressful.

We stayed the night in the Cosmiques hut before parting ways. I returned to Italy via Aguille du Midi and the Panoramic Skyway, while Dr. Dirtbag continued on his crazy peakbagging endeavors. Pretty spur of the moment linkup, but it was pretty rad.

https://climberkyle.com/2022/07/11/arete-du-diable-5c/

Now for some eye candy:

Now for some sunset photos:

The traverse!

Gear Notes:
Running shoes, strap on crampons, ice ax, single rack .4-2, nuts, slings, 60m rope.

Approach Notes:
Glacier remarkably filled in considering the absolutely terrible snow year and summer heat there... bergschrund crossable still. Approach couloir just 3rd class choss, be careful for rockfall here.

[seano-]

It was a pleasure to meet you in person and climb with you, Kyle.  This was one of the highlights of my trip this summer, even with the rude French dude at the Cosmiques hut.

[mountainsloth]

Wow! Gorgeous photos! Reminds me to finally get to the Alps for real. 

[dberdinka]

On 8/30/2022 at 4:52 AM, seano- said:

It was a pleasure to meet you in person and climb with you, Kyle.  This was one of the highlights of my trip this summer, even with the rude French dude at the Cosmiques hut.

There’s always one.

[JasonG]

Damn.  I really need to do some climbing in the Alps.