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[TR] West Fury - Mongo Ridge 5.9 ED1 (second ascent of the Pole of Remotenesses) 07/14/2022


Sam Boyce
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Trip: West Fury - Mongo Ridge 5.9 ED1 (second ascent of the Pole of Remotenesses)

Trip Date: 07/14/2022

Trip Report:

 

Hello all, Lani and I got out of the pickets a few days ago. We repeated Mongo Ridge and got the second ascent of the pole of remoteness. Lani wrote a solid trip report on our blog with tons of photos imageproxy.php?img=&key=438e3321a8b92b51and more beta which is linked below. For now here are some important cliff notes on the route… 

 

https://www.theclimbingguides.com/post/mongo-ridge-and-the-pole-of-remoteness-7-09-2022-7-14-2022

1- we did not do the rooster comb. This feature is awesome looking and deserving of being climbed if you have the time. The bypass doesn’t seem to detract from the aesthetic of the line too much, you are about 100-150’ from the roosters comb the whole way as you traverse the south face. 

2- we did not encounter any 5.10 terrain. After seeing photos from Wayne’s trip we climbed slightly different terrain than he did on tower 3.

3- everyone seems concerned with the commitment grades thrown at this thing. I would argue that an American commitment grade makes little sense on a climb like this. I would like to propose Mongo as the benchmark ED1 for the cascades. It is a considerable step up in length, commitment and general alpine involvement over NE butt of slesse, and I’ve always understood that climb as the benchmark TD. There was 3500’ of climbing done in 30 pitches without any simuling. we chose not to simul as there really wasn’t enough solid gear to make it feel like we weren’t just soloing. 

4- this was my first technical climb in the pickets, so I don’t have much to compare it to but I felt the rock was pretty damn good and the route was fucking awesome. The route was similar in nature to the west arete, but longer and with better rock, and almost no overhead hazard. I would highly recommend the route. 

5- the sit start to the ridge is a logical evolution of the route. For those interested, it looked improbable to gain the lower ridge anywhere other than toe. This would ultimately add about 1200’ to the climb. Once seasonal snow is gone, it may be easier to trudge up the depths of goddell creek… 

Gear Notes:
Single rack .1-2, doubles .3-.75

Approach Notes:
Long

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Well done and what a a strong team you two are! Great to see you two even try it after P+J let some air out of the sails. It was great to have you as well as pj over for dinner too! Anyone that climbs that rig gets a free dinner at my place! 
 

The Pole is pretty special place, hope it gets even more traffic.

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