[TR] Tahoma / Mt. Rainier - Tahoma Glacier 06/26/2022

[samueleley]

Trip: Tahoma / Mt. Rainier - Tahoma Glacier

Trip Date: 06/26/2022

Trip Report:

A constant search for adventure, solitude, and punishing elevation gains led Tom and I to attempt Mt. Rainier’s Tahoma Glacier from June 26-29. Spring conditions in late June beckoned with the possibility of easier route finding on what we’d heard was a notoriously broken glacier. Our hope was to ascend straight up the Tahoma Glacier from Emerald Ridge, avoiding the detour to the Puyallup Glacier if possible. This turned out to be entirely possible with current conditions on the Tahoma.

Day 1

After grabbing a permit at Longmire on Sunday morning, we departed the Westside Road parking lot around 10:30AM. We soon turned off onto the Tahoma Creek Trail and subsequently lost it shortly after it crossed onto the creek bed. Though ascending the creek all the way to the Wonderland Trail wasn’t terrible (actually quite beautiful), after descending the actual trail on our way back, I very much recommend trying to keep to the trail. Not only is Tahoma Creek Trail gorgeous, it’s easier going than the rocky creek bed. Keep your eyes peeled for spots the trail re-enters the woods along the left creek bank, though they are admittedly quite well-hidden.

It took us about 5 hours in total to ascend to Emerald Ridge from the parking lot, with the last half mile or so covered in rapidly melting snow. The lower Tahoma looked navigable so we decided to head straight up the glacier from there rather than continue around to Tokaloo Spire and the Puyallup. We took a moraine to the hill at the very end of Emerald Ridge and found a perfect tent site for our low camp at 6000 feet (5.5 miles from parking lot). There was even a trickle of running water to avoid melting snow.

Emerald Ridge Campsite

Adams from Emerald Ridge

Looking towards St. Andrew's Rock

Day 2

We were off the next morning around 8AM with the goal of establishing a high camp near St. Andrew’s Rock. We began the ascent on climber’s right up a ramp and around a few broken bulges before eventually cutting leftwards towards the center of the glacier for the rest of the ascent to high camp. Overall, we found the Tahoma Glacier entirely navigable, with only a handful of snow bridges warranting probing. Anywhere that we chose to cross a bridge there seemed to be alternate ways around or over the crevasse, so we were never left feeling stuck or cornered.

At around 10,400 feet we found a flat shelf on the glacier to dig out a tent platform that seemed clear enough of icefall hazards from the two massive séracs on either side of the Upper Tahoma route. It was 3:30PM (7.5 hours and roughly 2.5-3 miles from low camp). We relished some much needed shade in our tent and listened to the calming sounds of ice and rockfall from the towering walls on three sides. The Upper Tahoma looked in superb condition with multiple possible paths to the summit cap so we decided to avoid the Sickle. The forecast called for dropping temperatures and a chance of showers the following afternoon, so we decided to be up and moving early to avoid freezing in whiteout conditions on the summit.

High Camp at 10,400'

Day 3

We were up at 2:15AM and made the decision to take down the tent and stash it with extra gear in a snow pit because the wind coming up the glacier overnight was relentless and seemed to be increasing. We were off at 3:45AM with the first hints of dawn appearing above Liberty Cap. Some fortuitous ski tracks from a bold ski descent of the Sickle the day prior (strong work from that duo) helped us find our way through the massive crevasses separating the route proper from the glacier basin. It was just above freezing and we found firm but good cramponing conditions on the bottom 2/3 of the route. As the sun rose, the snow steepened into a series of ice cliffs/shelves in the upper third of the route and we punched through the first line in a gully on the left that is bisected by a crevasse that will eventually make that path unnavigable (another gap a few hundred feet right of this one also looked reasonable). We then crossed rightwards up a steep slope and then crisscrossed left and right across the face 2-3 times seeking alternating ramps through the steeper ice shelves. We never felt the need for a picket or ice screw and never required a second ax. The wind was out of the southwest and getting stronger as the morning went on.

By 8AM we had climbed through the last of the shelves and found ourselves on the thankfully relenting steepness of the summit cap in temperatures that were well below freezing. We hit the West Rim just after 9AM and reached the empty summit at 9:15AM in winds too strong to stand upright in. Unable to even shout our congratulations to each other in the wind, we snapped a few hasty summit photos and promptly retraced our steps across the ice cap to the Upper Tahoma.

Summit!

We downclimbed through the shelves and finally made our way back to high camp by 2PM (5.5 hours up, 4.5 hours down). The snow was softer on descent as direct sun begins to hit the route at 9AM this time of year. We packed up our high camp and proceeded down glacier to low camp around 3PM. After a 3-hour slog through slush and intermittent zero-visibility fog (which would have required a GPS track if our footsteps from the day prior weren’t still visible), we arrived back at our low camp on Emerald Ridge around 6:15PM, 14.5 hours after departing for the summit.

Day 4

After 10 glorious hours of sleep, a very relaxed breakfast, and a brief visit from a mountain goat (who seemed moderately disappointed that we were occupying her ridge line) and her baby (who seemed completely oblivious to our presence and instead very preoccupied with jumping around), we began the trek down the Wonderland Trail towards the car at 11:45AM the next day. We found the upper end of the Tahoma Creek Trail and marveled at what we had missed by taking the creek bed on the ascent.

Tahoma Creek Trail

During our descent of Tahoma Creek Trail we had the good fortune of crossing paths with Pope and Dwayner, two apparently (formerly) prolific CascadeClimbers contributors. Such a joy to chat about routes and a bit of Rainier lore and history with you two, thanks for imparting some wisdom onto us relative Rainier rookies.

Overall, in its current condition, the Tahoma offers spectacular isolation on a completely different aspect of the mountain, lengthy glacier travel, and a moderate final climb to the summit cap.

Gear Notes:
Probe was necessary. Didn't require pickets or screws in current conditions.

Approach Notes:
Try to stay on the Tahoma Creek Trail if you use it for approach.

Edited October 1, 2022 by samueleley

[Bronco]

Nice, thanks for posting the TR and funny tidbit about encountering Pope and Dwanyner. It's good to know they're still out there somewhere probably yukking it up.

[olyclimber]

Great TR.  It sure is weird how insufferable some people can be online, yet actually really nice people when you meet them in person.  Glad those guys are out enjoying life.

[samueleley]

1 hour ago, olyclimber said:

Great TR.  It sure is weird how insufferable some people can be online, yet actually really nice people when you meet them in person.  Glad those guys are out enjoying life.

Agreed! Though I never experienced the online personas, can very much attest to the genuine kindness of those two in person

[Kameron]

Awesome report, this route is high on my list. Score

[JasonG]

This is TR perfection! Love it.  Glad you guys threaded the needle on that one, certainly an accomplishment!

And yes, funny running into the Old Guard out there.... I think most of us would get along a lot better in this world if we limited our interactions to in-person....

And wonder of wonders, it looks like you may have brought a real camera??!! Great photos!

[samueleley]

4 hours ago, JasonG said:

This is TR perfection! Love it.  Glad you guys threaded the needle on that one, certainly an accomplishment!

And yes, funny running into the Old Guard out there.... I think most of us would get along a lot better in this world if we limited our interactions to in-person....

And wonder of wonders, it looks like you may have brought a real camera??!! Great photos!

Kind words, @JasonG. Mean a lot coming from you! 

I did indeed have my trusty a7Rii out on this trip, though the crux photos are all iPhone shots. Still getting the hang of having my mirrorless out and ready when the climbing feels hard.

[JasonG]

16 hours ago, samueleley said:

Still getting the hang of having my mirrorless out and ready

I hang my dlsr (in a LowePro case) off of some cord and 'biners from my pack shoulder straps and hip belt.  Works great on steep snow and rock up to low fifth. The cord allows me to adjust how it rides depending on how much clothing or which pack I'm using. 

This style of carry has served me well for a decade or so, after trying a lot of options.  I sometimes ragdoll with it snowboarding and so far I haven't destroyed my camera.  It is a heavy d750 too.  Your camera would carry even better!