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underscore_child

New route Tooth?

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Yup.

Wayne Wallace mentioned it to me at Index a week or two ago. I think. And I overheard someone (maybe Nelson?) at Marblemount talking about a new bolted route on the Tooth, mid 10.

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10 hours ago, underscore_child said:

Yup.

Wayne Wallace mentioned it to me at Index a week or two ago. I think. And I overheard someone (maybe Nelson?) at Marblemount talking about a new bolted route on the Tooth, mid 10.

 

that tooth fairie route feels like easy 5.10 route especially on the crux.  5.9+ can mean a lot to different climbers.  but maybe another line went in somewhere nearby tooth fairy.

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David Whitelaw and I finished this new route on August 4. Jim Nelson was in attendance to take some photos, but did not climb it with us.

The route is called Indentured Servant, and is located 100+ yards left of Tooth Fairy. It's a sport route of five pitches, all bolted, like this:
P1 some sustained 5.10a, 12 bolts
P2 5.7, 9 bolts
P3 5.8, crossing a giant chockstone, 6 bolts, 
P4 5.10b, reachy stemming up a V-slot, 12 bolts
P5 5.9, sustained .9 face climbing for over 30', 6 bolts

We built it to climb and rappel with one 60m rope. For P1 we extend two of the clips with alpine draws to avoid drag (see photo).

Rappel the route until P2, then drop straight down into the deep gully where there is a final anchor.

The route finishes on the North ridge, so you can traverse right and up to the summit. One could also walk off the North Ridge route.

All bolts are 3/8" SS wedge bolts. Belay/rappel anchors are either SS chain w/ ring or two bolts with rings.

The first person to climb it besides David and me was Ken Ford, on Aug. 12. Then David's friend Kelsey Gray from AK joined us for a couple of days of exploration, and they climbed it together on Sept. 2, while I took a rest day in camp. Then I brought up Robin Taft for an outing of Tooth Fairy the first day, and this route the next, on Sept. 12-13.

Here is Ken Ford finishing P1, showing how the rope takes a nice curve if bolts 6 and 7 are extended

IMG_3307.JPG

David W. has drawn one of his beautiful topos for this, but we won't publish until next year. One doesn't need a topo to climb it, however, just find the clean toe of white rock to the left of a major gully, and follow the hangers.

Bill Enger

Edited by Otto
details, details
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5 hours ago, genepires said:

 

that tooth fairie route feels like easy 5.10 route especially on the crux.  5.9+ can mean a lot to different climbers.  but maybe another line went in somewhere nearby tooth fairy.

Yeah I thought the crux was maybe 10a or b. But 9+ seems fair overall.

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