Dru Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 So now we got S&M - meteorological vinculation is starting to sound like "golden showers". You guys can sure name your routes down there at Index! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 Still haven't seen the Circle Jerks Golden Shower of Hits yet........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 "A push from the left and a shove from the right/It's all planned out we'll do it tonight/COUP D'ETAT!!!!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 Overheard drunks sitting in bars. Talkin bout sex talkin bout cars talkin bout football women at lunch they just keep talkin but don't say much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 "Social security has run out for you and me, we do whatever we can, we gotta duck when the shit hits the fan!" "World up my ass, did a job there, wasn't the first, won't be the last, you know I got the world UP! MY! ASS! and society, it's pissing me off!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Dru: So now we got S&M - meteorological vinculation is starting to sound like "golden showers". You guys can sure name your routes down there at Index! Read some Freud into this one: "Brad Discoll Outnumbered His Guests By One, But A Good Time Was Had By All." Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 Dru just dont quote Afternoon Delight! We got a high price on our heads! [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 10-15-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 "Were not taking any fucking requests, but you must have been reading our set list. we were gonna play this one anyways!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 Red blanket room. Pills and booze do it every time> Real smooth trick suicide. I eat Drano. what do you do? he shot junk. she drank glue. how about you? [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 10-15-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Anderson Posted October 15, 2001 Share Posted October 15, 2001 In response to the questoin about the total overkill stainless steel anchor set ups on a bunch of the trade routs at Lower Town. Justin (I can't think of his last name - he moved to Colorado a while back) put them up. He said some guy traded them to him for the token price of some old leaver biners that Justin had with the understanding that Justin would put them up on some anchors where they would be used. The ones up and right of Amandala were probably there because he used to bring friends out to belay him on Amandala. The usual deal is that he would lead Sagitarius and let them top rope it as long as they belayed him on Amandala. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted October 16, 2001 Author Share Posted October 16, 2001 Amandla. Amandla. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted October 16, 2001 Share Posted October 16, 2001 Sandbag!!!! The first move on that is probably 12+. So here's the beta. left hand in the scar above the good horizontal hold. right hand with thumb down in the shitty scar. Your right foot is on the little knob/smear out right with heal in. Then move your left foot up to the hold below the horizontal. Once your left foot is up, turn the right foot so you are outside edging. Get some stiff shoes for this. The scum your left shoulder up as high as you can get it and then high step with your left (heal in) onto the big horizontal. And there you go. Only 10 more hard moves to go. Its all about the right foot backstep. Good luck. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted October 16, 2001 Share Posted October 16, 2001 Thanks for the good beta Wallstein. I have tried this route on TR and gotten thrashed. Next time I'll remember your advice. Question: How do people feel about the bolting of a crack, albeit an aid crack? What is the history of the expensive gear at the top of this crack? There is an amazingly strong stainless steel cold shut with a swinging gate at the top of this climb. I presume it is for pendulumning off of a bight to get into the crack on the left, but I'm not sure. Why the need for such gear? How many of you who have aided this crack have clipped the bolts? Just curious. I remember lots of creaky hook moves... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted October 16, 2001 Share Posted October 16, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Matt: How many of you who have aided this crack have clipped the bolts? Just curious. I remember lots of creaky hook moves... I remember using lots of tiny rp's and thinking that I would rip them all if one came out. Several placements up I succumbed to my partners begging that I clip one of the bolts. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 16, 2001 Share Posted October 16, 2001 ScottP, Do you expect us to believe that you succumbed to your partners begging if he was belaying from the ground? I would find it hard to believe that your partner would be begging while sitting on the flats. Tell us to how much of a hard man you are. [This message has been edited by OfficeSpace (edited 10-15-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted October 16, 2001 Share Posted October 16, 2001 quote: Originally posted by OfficeSpace: ScottP, Do you expect us to believe that you succumbed to your partners begging if he was belaying from the ground? I would find it hard to believe that your partner would be begging while sitting on the flats. Tell us to how much of a hard man you are. So what's got your undies in a bunch spaceboy? I guess he didn't want to see me rip my gear and hit the ground. I wanted to see if it would go without clipping the bolts, but used the chicken bolts after 5 or 6 placements. Not quite the hard man material you're looking for, I suppose. I do find it interesting how you read that into my post. Inference can be a bitch sometimes. Â [This message has been edited by ScottP (edited 10-15-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted October 16, 2001 Author Share Posted October 16, 2001 Matt Anderson. (Nice name!) Did the feller Justin finally get Amandla? Did you belay him? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Anderson Posted October 16, 2001 Share Posted October 16, 2001 I heard the cheering, but did not see or belay the ascent. It happened at least a couple of summers ago. Matt And thanks, Semyass talkalot, I also like the name my parents gave me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 16, 2001 Share Posted October 16, 2001 Justin Sjong, 3rd ascent of Vogue 14b in Colorado, that Justin (also routes in Bellingham??) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daler Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 I nice linkup is lower Iron Horse with upper Sagitarius through the roof. I would put it at soft index 12a. And if thats not hard enough go through the left hand roof on Sagitarius. Or do lower Iron Horse then upper Amandala. dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freak Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 Umm I thought 10% was when you exited left from the first anchors of jap gardens, after that you go up a steep corner and then exit on the meagerest tip jams imaginable thats as far as I got, I think after that it getts incrementaly easyier but not much, nic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 I agree with Dale. The Iron Horse/Sag variation turning the roof on the left of the Sag anchors is really good stuff. One of the many great climbs Index has to offer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freak Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 somebody told me that that upper roof on sag/iron horse is protected with an upsidedown knife blade is that true, is it a go? nic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daler Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 Freak, last time I climbed the roof the blade was gone. but there is plenty of good gear, just a few more feet down than the where the blade was. A clean 10 footer if you fall pulling the roof. dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freak Posted October 18, 2001 Share Posted October 18, 2001 Rad thanks, nic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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