idea Winter/Spring climbing glove discussion

[kmfoerster]

Just curious what everyones taking with them on winter or spring routes in the cascades. Here's my usual glove selection ill bring with me on day and over night trips:

 

https://www.showagloves.com/showa-406?gi=7qbtt5a51oeoh1fpv7l3d8okb1#.XeAUVS2ZPow

These are my main lead gloves. They are kind of in the same vain as those blue things that are all the rage now. I would be more inclined to use the blue fisherman gloves if I didn't dislike the feel of them so much. These provide a good warmth to dexterity ratio, but aren't very durable. I'm usually able to keep them on the entire day and have my hands stay warm. Towards the end of the day they do get kind of clammy on the inside. Pros: warm, waterproof, long snug cuff, very grippy, very dextrous, touch screen compatible. Cons: Don't breath that well, grip wears out after 1-3 routes which leaves them not water proof anymore, rappelling in them wears them out even faster.

 

https://www.outdoorresearch.com/us/direct-contact-gloves-268048?cat=68,15,4

A back up mid-weight glove, haven't done too much climbing in them. I like the feel and fit of them, but I just like climbing in the Showa-406's that much more.

 

https://www.outdoorresearch.com/us/vitaly-gloves-268049?cat=68,15,4

https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en/stance-mitts-BD801736_cfg.html#start=1

I usually pack either one of those to have as an extra or camp glove for overnight trips. I size the BD stance mitts a few sizes up to fit over a thicker pair of liner gloves.

[JasonG]

Those Showa gloves look like a nice alternative to the blue standard glove that Colin and others have used for years:

[kmfoerster]

 Yeah I've tried those blue atlas gloves on at a fishing store around town. When I had them on my hands I was kind of thinking to myself, "People like climbing in these?" While I'm sure they're warm, they just felt too baggy and plastic-y for my taste. Perhaps I personally fall between sizes so the next size that wasn't too tight was also too loose. But it seems like they would last for a long time. I think I might pick up a pair and wear them for work this winter and give them a shot, make sure I'm not missing something.

But yeah I love the orange Showa's. I get them at fishing supply store as well. They are more form fitting and compliant to your hands than the blue atlas gloves. They also make a great addition to a winter ski glove system, since they're not too warm if you want a glove to skin in.

[kmfoerster]

I've since hopped on the Showa TEMRES 282 train after using them in wet and cold work conditions. I work as a climbing arborist, and tree work tends to destroy gloves. The blue Showa's are insanely durable, much more so than the orange ones I like. I might use the orange 406's more for spring stuff now and the TEMRES 282's for winter. I modified a couple of pairs recently with a cinch collar like Colin Haley does:

But fans of these gloves will be excited to know that Showa is coming out with a new version of the 282's that are not smurf blue and have a collar already!

https://andrewskurka.com/preview-showa-282-02-gloves/

[JasonG]

Nice!!  Thanks for the update on those....

[cowolter]

I have the BD Soloist and love it because on warmer days I simply remove the inner glove with the primaloft isolation and wear the outer glove with my normal, thin liner gloves.  

Would 100% recommend though- they are amazing, since I have trouble with cold hands, these are great and so adjustable.

onplanners

Edited July 5, 2020 by cowolter

[bedellympian]

I have a lower quality Showa knock-off. They're durable but moisture builds up inside and kills the warmth too quickly for long days. I save them for wet leads. 

I've typically climbed alpine routes in the OR Arete which is good but less durable than I'd really like. 

I bought a variety of gloves off steepandcheap (you get what you pay for) the other year to try. Two were OR and they both wet out and then fail to dry... pretty terrible. One was BD, not super durable but stayed dry longer and dried out sooner. I would really like to support OR over BD but BD does seem to be doing a better job on the gloves right now. 

Cowolter I'll be trying those soloists and looking into the new Showas.