The Tetons in Late May/Early June

[minx]

Just found out yesterday that I'll probably be spending a couple of weeks in WY at the end of may/early june. Does anybody have any experience/recommendations for climbs in the tetons that time of year? Everything thing i've read/heard relates to conditions later in the summer. Thanks!

[erik]

depending on snow conditions, this could be a good time for some of the coulior routes in the area. probably a good time to hit the black ice!

 

but not really!!

 

betaless

 

[freeclimb9]

Depends on snowpack, doesn't it.

With current snowpack depth, late May and early June will probably offer easy and dry access to most rock climbs. Snow and ice climbs will be sloughing crap, but could be good.

And then the snow could fall heavily in April and screw all your well laid plans.

[DPS]

I've couloir routes some years in August and had ice on the rock climbs other years in August. I would think Black Ice, Vision Quest, Enclosure Couloir, NW Ice Couloir on the Middle would all be good candidates for this time of year.

[ryland_moore]

A cool car to car two peak day is to hike up to the Meadows and then proceed up to do the NW side of South Teton, then traverse down to the saddle and head up the SW Couloir of Middle Teton. Can do it alone and never goes over 45 degrees. Plus you bag two peaks! It is a low snow year, so it shouldn't be too much trouble getting up there. PM me for other specific routes, especially if you are looking to do some alpine rock in Death Canyon or other areas outside the main "4"

[J_Fisher]

If you're looking for ice/mixed, that early it's going to be a roll of the dice. I don't know about the snowpack this year, but you'll likely be dealing with seasonal snow instead of alpine ice. That could mean nice neve, or it could mean 8 inches of rotten muck sloughing off the ice below. It was the latter when I was out there mid-June a couple years ago.

 

Mixed snow rock climbs might be a good bet. The Middle Teton Glacier route is fun and less committing than the mixed stuff on the Grand.

 

South facing rock routes will probably be fine unless it's stormed very recently, though expect to bring crampons and/or ice axe for descents and possible ascents (I remember using crampons on upper exum and getting to the owens spalding raps.) the O-S could be in fun mixed shape that time of year.

 

There's always the lower elevation rock climbs, too. Caveat Emptor was dry and the descent snow free by June in '00.

 

I'd keep plans open and check with the Rangers once you get there. They are very competent, no-BS types and keep very current beta.

[Rodchester]

My experinece that time of the year in the Tetons is that the weather is more of a concern than the snow pack. It can be quite bad, raining and not really warmed up yet. Of course, if the weather is great, then great.

 

You will want to have cramp-ons and ice axe with the ability to use them on many of the approaches and descents. The rangers there are the best I've dealt with. (As stated by others).

 

The Exum is a classic and it gets plenty of sunshine so it MIGHT be clear of snow and ice. I would love to do the Middle Teton glacier that time of year.

 

If it is bad, then think about going over to City of Rocks in Idaho. A bit of a drive, but the weather is usually good that time of year. Also, the southern part of the Wind River Range tends to get less precip that time of the year.

 

Have fun....

 

 

[glen]

Check the snow conditions, but some of the gullies and slopes on the way up to the saddle S of Middle Teton would be pretty fun for BC skiing.