bigwalling Posted January 31, 2003 Posted January 31, 2003 Anyone know what the hardest mixed route(m-system) is in Washington and where it's at? Quote
Dru Posted January 31, 2003 Posted January 31, 2003 It is called Spray Bourbon and is rated M420. Quote
bigwalling Posted January 31, 2003 Author Posted January 31, 2003 You want bolts or natural gear? Doesn't matter. I'm just interested in knowing what our state has to offer in this form of climbing. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 31, 2003 Posted January 31, 2003 (edited) You want bolts or natural gear? Doesn't matter. I'm just interested in knowing what our state has to offer in this form of climbing. If you have a drill and time then I am sure you can create something more difficult that what already exists. Otherwise you can find something heinous on many mountains out there. For some info I heard that near mt baker ski area there is some sport\mixed climbs that are EXTREME. Caption: Andreas Schmidt climbs Gorilla Bar, rated M8, at the newly developed 'Toolshed' mixed climbing crag at the Mt. Baker Ski area. Photographer: Tim Matsui Edited January 31, 2003 by Cpt.Caveman Quote
Necronomicon Posted January 31, 2003 Posted January 31, 2003 You want bolts or natural gear? Doesn't matter. I'm just interested in knowing what our state has to offer in this form of climbing. If you have a drill and time then I am sure you can create something more difficult that what already exists. Otherwise you can find something heinous on many mountains out there. For some info I heard that near mt baker ski area there is some sport\mixed climbs that are EXTREME. Caption: Andreas Schmidt climbs Gorilla Bar, rated M8, at the newly developed 'Toolshed' mixed climbing crag at the Mt. Baker Ski area. Photographer: Tim Matsui If I'm not mistaken, this route is about twenty feet tall, although, this year, it's likely to be forty feet to the first bolt. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 31, 2003 Posted January 31, 2003 If I'm not mistaken, this route is about twenty feet tall, although, this year, it's likely to be forty feet to the first bolt. I don't know a thing about the area. Quote
Necronomicon Posted January 31, 2003 Posted January 31, 2003 If I'm not mistaken, this route is about twenty feet tall, although, this year, it's likely to be forty feet to the first bolt. I don't know a thing about the area. This climb is to the right of Pan Dome, about 75', unless it's in a new area. The pitch he's leading is just left of the farmost ice pillar on that "cliff band". Quote
Jason_Martin Posted February 2, 2003 Posted February 2, 2003 The hardest modern mixed route in the state (i.e. bolted route) is a route called Guru on the Rap Wall in Alpental. The route goes at M9 and to my knowledge has only seen one complete ascent. Sean Issac told me that he believes the gentleman who completed this route is the first to do a route at this grade inside the boarders of Washington State. There are a number of extremely hard mixed routes that are more alpine in nature. For example, Goat's Beard in Mazama is seldom in good condition and often requires hard mixed climbing. The hardest ice/mixed route in the state is down near Camus on Hamilton Mountain. The ice climbing on the route is in the WI 6 range and there are many mixed moves. To date this route has never seen a complete ascent. It is by all standards (including rock, alpine, ice and mixed) perhaps the hardest and most commiting climb in Washington State. Jason Quote
slothrop Posted February 2, 2003 Posted February 2, 2003 This Hamilton Mountain? Do you mean "hardest and most committing mixed crag climb in the state"? Quote
wayne Posted February 2, 2003 Posted February 2, 2003 The gorge hasnt been in in awhile. I believe my friend Bob M. was one of the first to visit the area. There is so much in the Gorge when its in. I havent heard of much in the way of mixed . Who was the one working on that project? Quote
Jason_Martin Posted February 3, 2003 Posted February 3, 2003 Wayne, You're buddy is the one who gave me the beta. Based on the info I have it IS probably the hardest climb in the state. If nothing else it is definately the hardest ice/mixed climb that I have beta on. Jason Quote
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