Marko
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Posts posted by Marko
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It's all mighty, amigo!
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Start skiing in by 8? I'm willing to change plans if the approach slopes are sketchy however.
Mark
206-ICE-CLYM
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Very cool Gullbergs; glad you got to the hills on your visit!
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Just dropped $50; more to follow next month...
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Dudes, that is really, really cool! Nice frikkin' adventure!
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Nice, Wayne and Beau!
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Nice, Mike! Remember, WWJD (What Would Jerzy Do?).
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That's some goddamn cool shit you done did, gents!! I've been pondering that thing for years, but too lazy to get on it; well done!
A friend and I did that N face route a while back. It does indeed start with a chimney around the corner that makes a nice funnel for the inevitable spindrift torrent. Your route is way steeper and cooler looking than the N face for sure.
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Hi Scotty!
Not sure about the Lowe, maybe it was the old Serratus Genie you saw pictures of? Check out the new MEC Genie in any case:
I recently bought one and like it so far. They fixed the one downer of the old one; the top flap pocket zipper is now on the outside instead of under the flap. And it's a water repellent zipper. If you strip it down, the new model is actually lighter than the old model. (At least comparing the two packs I have.) It's a bit larger, too, though I'm not so keen on that.
The body fabric is Dyneema reinforced but feels sorta flimsy. That being said, I've always had good luck with the similar fabric used on the the Golite packs.
Hope you're keeping warm down there!
M
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WI4+ seem about right for the first pitch?
I'd agree. Ade, since you led it what do you think?
Check out the ice above Martha's Place, Yo! I was just thinking last night, I bet there is a bunch of ice in the cirque near roan wall.Actually, some of that stuff might still be there, just a bit avi threatened now.
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Marko: the east face couloir or the ne face on 3 fingers?
NE; see quickie 3 Fingers TR...
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We descended skier's right of Beckey's dotted line. It was horrible brush and cliffs, in the dark! We should have done what Ade wanted to do in the first place and descend the south-facing cliffy slope going down into the approach cirque. It would have probably required one or more rappels off trees but would have been way better than what we ended up doing.
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Trip: Three Fingers - NE Face attempt
Date: 12/10/2009
Trip Report:
So's not to further highjack Darin's TR...
Snow and ice conditions were nearly ideal. The main ice pitches were not quite as fat as what the FA pictures showed but still plenty of good ice. The crux pitch had some interesting pulling-over-a-bulge-onto-loose-snow bits but Ade styled it anyway.
It was a bit slow traveling in the valleys due to no snow cover but not too bad. Temps were brisk, 10-20F I'd say, but with zero wind it was perfect. There were numerous cool looking smears coming down the granite cirque at the head of the approach valley. I'm sure they're all gone now unfortunately.
We didn't summit because we were both pretty tired from lack of fitness and from the added work of the bony approach.
The lower cirque with cool smears:
Ade starting the main ice:
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What things again?
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Nice show gents! Looks like you got some fun for sure.
In answer to your question, the Thursday before Ade and I had a go at that E Face route on Three Fingers. We found great conditions up there (just like everywhere else at that time!). We did the ice bits but traversed across the NE shoulder without carrying on to the summit, so no route. Several hours later we were heading down the wrong descent drainage (at my suggestion) in the dark. Wrong, as in the nastiest travelling either of us have ever done in the mountains. It was all very purdy though.
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Scotty, I can't believe this. My deepest condolences to you and your whole family. It can't be true.
Mark
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Did you get out? You up for the same type of foolishness on Sunday?
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Dachsteins. Maybe add a windproof overmitt if it's really nasty up high. They've never failed me even after other gear has frozen solid.
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I'm with Sol on this one John.
Same here.
However, while I'd say the lads' jaunt was the first true alpine style ascent, ours was in better style and much more important since we wore red capes and speedos throughout. Except in the photos of course. 'Cause like, that'd be weird.
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Nice "little" project, and nice photo essay of the route.
The studs were for Eve Dearborn? Did you know her?
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...For example, Haston and Scott on McKinley in '76. Chouinard rigids, Galibier Makalu dbl boot, neopreme over boots and a pair of Chouinard bamboo axes for the leader.
As I recall that kit was just left over from their little trip up Everest the year before, "Colder than Everest", Scott said.
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So when he says the face has never been freed and never been done in a single push he means just that route, because there's the Brazeau/Walsh which was done entirely free a couple years ago in the same time car to car?
The guy does in fact say "route" not "face".
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Thanks Jay! Damn cool adventures.
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Very damn cool Bill.
The Mighty Chair Sunday?
in Climbing Partners
Posted
No takers and didn't feel like soloing so skied up Mt Catherine instead.
How was pickin' and scratchin', Wayne?