Marko
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Posts posted by Marko
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Actually I think we only used the brown (field) one, but used it 2 or 3 times. We definitely brought pinko though!
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Trip: Snoqualmonix - Pineapple Express
Trip Date: 03/30/2019
Trip Report:Another lap on it w/ Rolf. Thinnish ice down low but well adhered to the rock and more quantity than expected. The upper NYG pitch was quite dry. Still a very fun outing for this late in the season.
It was a GroundUp-TeamFree-SmashAnGrab redpoint our sponsors (Geritol and Dr. Scholl's) would like to point out.
No good pics on the route so I included a shot of the start of last year's instant classic, the Turf Testament...
--I'd like to add a recommendation to rap after the 4th pitch since the traverse to NYG is a bit tedious, but more importantly the turf on the last pitch of NYG is not frozen. We had to be very careful not to damage it.
Gear Notes:
Don't forget the Tricams.
Approach Notes:
Need younger knees.
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Nice; kicking, stabbing, AND wallowing. It's all anyone needs.
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There’s also a fun spicier start just around to the right of the buttress toe. A bit Scottishy and turfy.
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Howdy,
I'd like to take a look at these. This evening good?
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Howdy,
How does $60 cash sound? I'm in Seattle, can p/u anytime after work (7pm).
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FWIW, years ago Colin and I accessed the buttress from the east with good snow cover and it was cake. I'll check my notes to see what time of year that was.
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Hot damn dude, nice one!
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On 4/22 NW face route between Backbone and Serpentine was quite dry, too.
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kukuzka1, his brother, and I were Team Motrin on an Alaska trip a few years back; I think graduating to Team Centrum Silver is appropriate!
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On 4/14/2018 at 7:34 PM, kukuzka1 said:
Cool!
You'd love it dude, next year you can guide me up it 'cause by then I'll forget that we even did it!
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Just one shortie Snarg, used 3x in the blessed turf blobs. Some very crappy phone pics follow...
The first page of the newest Testament:
The first 3 meters off the ground:
The next 15 meters, which set the tone for most of the climbing:
Looking straight up last pitch and summit cornice. (The few other pics I took during the climb were too crappy for publication):
Summit shot. If you look closely you can see the chiseled Fingers of Fate:
This climb, in the conditions we found it, is harder and more sustained than NYG and PE and all their variations. Though Rolf said that's because we're old now.
Praise be Turf for without it we are NOTHING!
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On 2/17/2018 at 11:13 AM, DPS said:
Did you climb up to the big chock stone chimney, which would be the top of pitch two or three? Did you then stick to the ridge crest, the photo of Don appears to be on the south side of the ridge? Did you follow the summer route? Thanks!
As an aside, I think it is very cool that FWAs are still happening at Snoqualmie Pass and folks like Chris Simmons are doing a lot of exploration and fitting together really interesting enchainments. Snoqualmie Pass is like little Scotland. When the conditions are ripe, the goods are excellent. I did a Tooth to Denny traverse in the summer which was really cool, if a bit contrived. I think in good winter conditions traversing the NE Slab of the Tooth to Denny Mt. would be a good, long day out.
There is also a striking prow on Hemlock Peak (I think) climbers right of the NE Slab on the Tooth that I have seen in climbable, thickly ice conditions. That would be a cool way up Hemlock and could enchain the rock pitches on the north ridge.
I don't really remember a big chockstone chimney other than the upper feature in the 5th and 6th pics. After I took that shot of Don on the south side he deked right then back up to the cool spiny crest. We just about followed the way we went a couple summers ago.
I totally agree with your sentiments about the Snoq Alps! There's even stuff left to do on the NW side of Snoqualmie Mtn. I'm positive that last weekend there could have been numerous new routes put up all over them Alps!
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3 hours ago, DPS said:
I'm not happy about having my climb poached. Gerrit and Jake will corroborate that I had intentions on the winter ascent as far back as 2013. I even placed a piton with a red tag, but it was probably covered in ice.
In all seriousness, nice work. A very cool addition to winter climbing in the Snoqualmie Pass area!
Actually, the first clean winter ascent awaits; I rested on a couple pieces due to decrepitude!
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Trip: Chair Pk - NW Ridge
Trip Date: 02/11/2018
Trip Report:More fun in winter I thought, especially with the amazing conditions. More alpine ice well adhered to the rock than I've ever seen in the Snoq area, neve even! Don, my long time climbing partner, and I had a blast in this puppy yesterday.
The last 10' of the first pitch gaining the ridge was a good opener. The second pitch we traversed on the south side of the ridge up to a small notch with a chockstone, then up a short runout slab then a downward traverse to a small tree belay on the right. The third pitch went straight up to a steep hard (for me anyway) chimney topping out on the crest. Fantastic hooking! Running belay along the sharp crest and on to the top.
I hope folks got out and got some in these incredible conditions!
Left side of N face (yep, that's all good alpine ice and neve!):
N Face route:
1st pitch top out:
Don on runout slab (red dot), belay tree barely visible down and right:
3rd pitch:
Looking down 3rd pitch top out:
Running belay toward top:
Gear Notes:
Rock rack, no pins or screws needed
Approach Notes:
Casual, no floatation needed/wanted-
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Best I know of is my friend Scotty's sub 2 hour c2c. I bet Leor or the Haley alpinerope(less)gun could break 1.5 hrs.
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Hey Marko, cool that you were over there too! how did you find the climbing? where did you guys turn around?
We stopped at the Beep for no particular reason; it made it a nice afternoon on the rock, in a bit of a whiteout.
Definitely fun climbing. BTW, dig your TR!
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great TR, sweet trip! dig those rugged peaks of crescent cr basin. also, some nice photos across the way of despair and triumph.
"I think i may be done with the Pickets. But it was a trip i will always cherish."
that's easy to say now. just when you think you're out, they pull you back in.
+1
Oh he'll be back... he'll be back.
For what it's worth (nuthin'), a buddy and I made our way up what will now forever be known as "Beep" a few weeks ago and I'd bet we weren't the first.
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tvolk,
Yep, Barrier Crest; not as bad as I expected, all in the shade!
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My buddy Don and I spent a few days last week up there, too. Camped on a perfect granite patio 100ft above the Chopping Block col. Climbed the Block (raps good now for a single 50m rope), the (unnamed?) peak west of the Ottohorn, and the normal route on Terror.
Great traveling now with all the snow.
Love them Pickets!
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I'll pay for gas and beer if you're willing to pick up 2 souls and 2 bikes in North Bend Saturday (27th) morning and drop us off at the Columbia.
Thanks!
Mark
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Sweet! Yellow, BD (I think), ~110mm x ~170cm, tip tongue, tail hook. It's my buddy's; I'll pm you w/ his name and number.
Thanks!
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Shee-at, welcome back to earth boys.
Masks, capes, and speedos?
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F'n classic, thank you for the reminder Ivan.
[TR] Snoqualmonix - Pineapple Express 03/30/2019
in Alpine Lakes
Posted
Of course, a small token for loaning out your man!