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Marko

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Posts posted by Marko

    Mtn Loop Hwy

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Talked to a local shop yesterday: The guy said the gate is closed on the Silverton side (a few miles from Big 4) and there's a "road closed" sign at the Darrington end. He said you could drive around the sign no problem, but he didn't know how far up you could get.

    That's the latest...

    Lifetime Tick List

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    1. Moonflower Buttress

    2. Moonflower Buttress

    3. Moonflower Buttress

    4. Moonflower Buttress

    5. Moonflower Buttress

    6. Moonflower Buttress

    7. Moonflower Buttress

    8. Moonflower Buttress

    9. Moonflower Buttress

    10. Moonflower Buttress

    Sorry, I'm starting to get obsessed again.

    Mark

    xgk

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    Ade,

    Oh yeah, I forgot to mention another bit of wire to wrap around the fuel bottle and hang it also. The whole thing tilts a bit until you put a pot full of snow on the stove.

    It's great, the tent gets nice and toasty and you get to dry gear!

    xgk

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    titsmack (interesting..)

    I've taken an old cookpot and cut holes in the sides near the bottom for the fuel line and for air flow, then more holes (smaller) near the top to attach thin wire to hang the pot. Place the stove inside the pot and attach the fuel line and stand back. It's actually too heavy and kind of a pain in the ass.

    The old 1/8" thick plywood by 8" or so diameter with 3 small squares of blue foam glued to the bottom works great and weighs squat. I almost always cook inside the bivy tent these days. (Getting old & soft I suppose...)

    Have a blast!

    Mark

    [This message has been edited by Marko (edited 06-11-2001).]

    Diadem Peak (Humble Horse) beta??

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Paul,

    Yup, it's a great route! The view from the top of Alberta's N Face is puckering. We did it early/mid September '95 or '96 a week after the first fall snows. Great alpine ice, cold, and no rockfall during the climb. We brought one bag and a double bivy sack, bivied 15 minutes from the route, and did the carry over thing. The climbing is by no means extreme so the packs were no big deal.

    I think forrest_m is right about contouring around the peak. There's some wild terrain.

    We planned on descending the SE (I think it was) route but a huge cornice was overhanging it so we opted for the normal route (South ridge?). We got down around the lower ice chutes in the dark and ended up bivying. Should have kept descending to the meadows that night, because the next morning we were treated to the famous Rockies rock pummelling on the way down.

    I can't recommend descending any of the southern routes with the sun hitting them! On the other hand, you could spend most of the day climbing the route and then most of the night rapping it. Light packs and no rockfall. Maybe also use waders for the wicked-ass cold Sunwapta crossing both ways. Starting to sound pretty good except for leaving rappel crap all over the route.

    Either way, have a blast!

    Mark

    Liberty Ridge

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Jedi,

    Do you mean the descent off of Liberty CAP?

    If so, from the Cap head E along a ridge then S down to the saddle toward the main crater (all gentle slopes). From the saddle traverse SE (left) until you can descend the Emmons Glacier route. Hopefully you won't have to gain any extra altitude to avoid cracks. In a whiteout it would be a lonely, desolate place and not much fun! You might want to descend Liberty Ridge if it's too crappy.

    Enjoy!

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