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Marko

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Posts posted by Marko

  1. Trip: NY Gully -

     

    Date: 12/24/2011

     

    Trip Report:

    Scott Gullberg and I scratched our way up the route yesterday. It's the bonyest I've ever seen it, and thus a bit harder than usual; though Scott did a fine job leading the crux pitches.

     

    One thing I'd mention is that you'd best tread lightly and swing lightly in these conditions to avoid destroying the turf up there. There's zero ice right now and only a handful of sticks into neve so the turf is even more of a valuable commodity. There's also quite a bit of loose rock exposed that is usually covered and more frozen into place.

  2. There's still quite a bit of white on it and not much exposed glacial ice. The 'shrund looked pretty open. You may have some shenanigans getting over it, but I only walked in as far as the meadow so couldn't really tell. I couldn't see the top out so don't how dry it is.

     

    There didn't appear to be any dirty streaks from rockfall on the route but I did hear a pretty good rockfall event coming from the Ice Cliff Glacier cirque.

     

    Start early before the sun hits it of course...

     

    Cheers

  3. Howdy John,

    We parked at the mudslide, right at 8-mile campground entrance. That frickin' thing is impressive.

     

    There were old ski tracks continuing up the Stuart Lk trail, probably from the Argonaut dudes from mid April. Stuart looks way good, get on that thing!

  4. As of Saturday the north side is in great shape, good neve down low and more ice than the other times I've been up there. The snow on the upper part of the north face got a bit slushy when the sun hit it for a couple hours but the Triple Couloirs stayed shaded; so probably less neve and more loose snow. Everything's in up there!

     

    We brought snowshoes part of the way but only used them for part of the de-proach. I'll try to put a TR together with some pics.

  5. From Super Topo Thread:

    Have you ever started a climbing rumor on accident?

    By deuce4:

    My favorite was how I described in the Big Wall Tech Manual about how to "X-em, Rock-em, Paste-em, and Sniff-em" when placing heads. The "Sniff-em" part was a joke --"if it stinks, get off it!"

     

    deuce4 is Middendorf then?

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