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Marko

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Posts posted by Marko

    Alaska kit: Down parka & boots

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted · Edited by Marko

    Everests-- $50

     

    Found some old info from the MEC website:

     

    " MEC Cygnus Jacket (Men's)

    Weight: 872g (Med)

    This wonder-jacket combines the best of materials, features, and construction to meet the demands of the most extreme users and most inclement conditions. The shell provides moderate moisture resistance and an excellent wind barrier. Now combined with GORE™ WINDSTOPPER®, for added weather protection on the shoulders, arms, and hood.

     

    Sewn-in baffles on the back and arms separate the chambers and prevent the down from shifting, so it reaches maximum loft. The front panels use double sewn-through chambers, providing two layers of down with offset quilting lines, for an exceptionally warm front barrier that eliminates cold spots. The shoulders have a combination of sewn-in baffles and double offset chambers.

     

    Shell body is tightly woven, 30-denier microfibre polyester down-proof fabric with good wind resistance and DWR (durable water repellency). Permits maximum loft and excellent compressibility.

    Contrasting hood, arms, and shoulders use GORE WINDSTOPPER Zao, for superior water and wind resistance.

    Insulation is 700 fill-power goose down, processed and collected in Canada.

    Lined with supple, high-count, down-proof taffeta, 30-denier microfibre nylon.

    Two handwarmer pockets, and one chest pocket.

    Hip-length cut layers over heavy-weight fleece or sweaters. If you plan to wear it over your shell jacket, consider purchasing a larger size."

     

    I think I'll haul the stuff over to 2nd Ascent this week.

     

    -M

    Alaska kit: Down parka & boots

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted · Edited by Marko

    MEC Cygus down parka: Size large, removable hood, 2 lbs - 2 oz, Dryloft, unused, still with tags, $200 US.

    http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=36360&cat=500

     

    Scarpa Omega plastics: Size 8 1/2, 4 lbs - 6 oz with insoles, low miles, thermoformable liners, good technical & warm boot, $160.

    http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=34358&cat=500&ppuser=169

     

     

    One Sport Everests: Size 10, 7 lbs/pair with integral gaitors, also low miles but with a tear in the gaitors (Aquaseal-able), freakishly warm, not so good for technical stuff though, $100.

    http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=36362&cat=516

     

     

     

    Mt. Stuart in Winter

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Well, not knowing your experience with the mighty Stutgart or how much time you have to spend up there...

     

    Skiing into the north side is great until you leave the trail, then snowshoes are easier (for my ski skills anyway). I've usually used showshoes and have even walked in a couple times in good conditions. From the meadow below the north side you can easily access the Sherpa Glacier route (nontechnical steep snow or neve) or the Stuart Glacier Couloir (somewhat technical especially once on the W Ridge) or the upper N Ridge (similar to SGC but more rock) or stuff like Girth Pillar and the lower N Ridge (rather technical). The NW Face route would be pretty cool I bet.

     

    To access the south side you can ski up Ingalls Creek and then ski up the SE route, or snowmobile and/or ski the road past Salmon la Sac and then cruise up the endless avi slopes to Ingalls Pass. I gotta say though that the north side is one amazing place in winter, go there man. But not after a big dump, it's friggin' heartbreaking.

     

    Gearwise; let's say 1 axe and a short tool (or 2 tools I suppose) for the first 2 routes, add a couple screws and a small rock rack for the SGC. A medium rock rack for the upper N Ridge, no pins or screws. Lots of aluminum and a bit of steel for the other routes, and a couple screws for getting up on the Ice Cliff Glacier. And crampons all around of course.

     

    Have a blast!

    -M

    Mitten Troubles

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    Dachstein mitts are surprisingly dexterous as far as mitts go since they're only one layer and thinner than insulated mittens; they're very warm, they dry from the inside outward when you're wearing them, and they're easy to take off for gear fiddling and then fairly easy to put back on.

     

    When the shit hits the fan and all else fails I've always fallen back on the Dachsteins. And they're cool looking. Sort of.

    Modify tool swing

    in Ice Climbing Forum

    Posted · Edited by Marko

    I've also read that BD picks tend to get stuck in the ice with the factory design and that many file them to remedy this. What exactly does one do to the pick to make it clear easier?

     

    What Selkirk said for sure, along with: Bevel the sides of the pick's teeth for the first 1.5", and dull the tips of the teeth a bit. This'll make it much easier to disengage the teeth from the ice. This made all the difference with the BD picks I've had.

     

    And what Andy Kirkpatrick says: http://www.psychovertical.com/?winterbooster

     

     

    FS: Ice tools-- Axars, Black Prophets, and X-15s

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted

    So let's say: Axars $120, Black Prophets $150, and X-15s $70. (Even I think 6 pairs of tools in the collection are too many...)

     

    The Axars have been great alpine tools; they're light (<24 oz for the hammer w/o leash) and have a moderate clearance shaft that helps for the occaisional mixed pitch.

     

    The Black Prophets are friggin' solid waterfall tools; a bit heavy (26.5 oz) and no clearance shaft but it doesn't take much of a swing to get a confidence-inspiring no-vibration stick. Grip shape seems to fit larger hands. BD makes the best adze I've seen for torquing in cracks, chopping out gear placements & ledges, and for climbing crappy snow/ice.

     

    The carbon fiber X-15s are certainly outdated but are still pretty light (24 oz) and bomber in the mountains. Same pick as the BPs. Definitely for larger hands.

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