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Marko

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Posts posted by Marko

    Modify tool swing

    in Ice Climbing Forum

    Posted · Edited by Marko

    I've also read that BD picks tend to get stuck in the ice with the factory design and that many file them to remedy this. What exactly does one do to the pick to make it clear easier?

     

    What Selkirk said for sure, along with: Bevel the sides of the pick's teeth for the first 1.5", and dull the tips of the teeth a bit. This'll make it much easier to disengage the teeth from the ice. This made all the difference with the BD picks I've had.

     

    And what Andy Kirkpatrick says: http://www.psychovertical.com/?winterbooster

     

     

    Cycling: tips for cold feet?

    in Fitness and Nutrition Forum

    Posted

    Welllllll, here's one thing that definitely works, but can be kinda dicey... Cayenne pepper on the toes! It keeps the circulation up no problem, but you really know it if you put on too much. Unfortunately you won't know it until after you've been pushing for a little while.

     

    Maybe a wee bit combined with one of the more conventional (sane) methods would do the trick.

    tag line

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    When using a tag line I rap both lines... when I set up the rap I set it up so that I am pulling the lead line (not the tag line) so that if the rope some how gets stuck when pulling the rap and I am forced to cut what I did manage to pull down/remains I am cutting the lead line... I set it up this was as I personally rather continue down with a piece of lead line not tag line.

     

    So how do you keep the skinny line from feeding through the rap device faster than the fat line and then subsequently start sawing through the rappel sling?

     

    My tag line is ~5 meters longer than my lead line to account for stretch of the lead/fat line... this extra also allows for some movement of the knot on the sling... whoever raps second always repositions the knot back against the rap sling prior to rapping though as some slippage does occur... I have never seen so much slippage or at a rate that cuts/melts the rap sling. What I do to minimize the amount of movement is I put an extra biner on just the skinny line side (total of 2) for rapping... the extra surface area seems to give enough friction so that the skinny line moves at about the same rate as the fat line... it helps that I don't climb on anything larger than 9.4 in the alpine also.

     

    I can take a pic if that would help.

     

    I'd be worried about the skinny line getting cut over an edge while you're rapping. On the other hand, if the tag line gets cut while you're yanking around on it to pull the ropes... yer in fer some fun.

     

    I'm guessing, also, that you're using Techcord which stretches a much less and is more cut resistant than my ratty 6mm Perlon. The 6mm stretches and slides a whole lot more than even the 9mm Stratos or the 8.5mm Sharp I usually use.

     

    I use the additional carabiner trick when rapping of the doubled 6mm alone but hadn't thought of rigging the 'biner just on the 6mm for double rope rappels. Good idea.

    tag line

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    When using a tag line I rap both lines... when I set up the rap I set it up so that I am pulling the lead line (not the tag line) so that if the rope some how gets stuck when pulling the rap and I am forced to cut what I did manage to pull down/remains I am cutting the lead line... I set it up this was as I personally rather continue down with a piece of lead line not tag line.

     

    So how do you keep the skinny line from feeding through the rap device faster than the fat line and then subsequently start sawing through the rappel sling?

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