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Marko

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Posts posted by Marko

    tag line

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    When using a tag line I rap both lines... when I set up the rap I set it up so that I am pulling the lead line (not the tag line) so that if the rope some how gets stuck when pulling the rap and I am forced to cut what I did manage to pull down/remains I am cutting the lead line... I set it up this was as I personally rather continue down with a piece of lead line not tag line.

     

    So how do you keep the skinny line from feeding through the rap device faster than the fat line and then subsequently start sawing through the rappel sling?

    Anyone used a JetBoil stove above 10,000 ft?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted · Edited by Marko

    OK, I am open to learning new things. It appears that the Pocket Rocket may be a better stove than my XGK. It sure is lighter and I am in a lightening-up phase just now, big time. But how do you use one of those little things in the field? They seem so unsteady (small base area), plus a 2 liter pot of water makes them ‘way topheavy. How do stabilize them in practical use? My buddy knocked over the Jetboil at one point but the nudge he gave it would not have caused any harm if we had been using an XGK.

     

    thanks

     

    After spilling a couple pot fulls of hard won water with the Rocket and the small size canister, we came up with the idea of putting a bag of instant rice under the canister. Squish the canister into the rice and it's way more stable. Mind you it goes from insanely tippy to merely quite tippy. Everything's a compromise though right...

     

    MCash-

    The Pocket Rocket with the JetBoil pot, not the canister, was the quickest boil. Due to the heat exchanger no doubt.

     

    Yo Sky! Hope things are groovy man!

    You ever compare a Whisperlite with the XGK? I always use a Whisperlite up in AK and it seems faster than the XGKs I've been around. The burner is closer to the pot than with the XGK and could be an explanation.

     

    -M

    Interesting Cordellette Study

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    It was exactly the situation in which most climbers would have used a cordelette... because they believed it was a tool to equalize a three point anchor.

     

    It is directly because of this accident that professionals and guides have reevaluated the cordelette and found it wanting.

     

    So no one here makes a double sliding X for a 3-piece anchor using a cordelette?

    Tying a knot in the rappel rope

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    You guys are mentioning single rope rappels. How do get the rope back once you have rappelled down it?

     

    YOu can use a biner block with a pull line. Put a rap ring or small sling loop in the anchor and run the rap rope through it. Clove hitch the rap rope to a large locking biner that cannot pass through or jam in the anchor (the 'block'), then tie it to a smaller pull cord (4 mm or larger). Rap only on the rap rope, paying out the pull cord from a stuff sack on your harness as you descend (you can't throw a pull cord...too light and tangly). When off, retrieve the rope with the pull cord.

     

    There's also the "rappel off the fifi with the bungie attached to the top of the fifi retrieval" trick. Dangerous as hell I'd say, but light.

     

     

    Sleeping Pads-Closed Cell and Self-Infating

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    The problem I've found with Ridgerests and the other corrugated type pads is that when you invariable track snow into the tent, the snow ends up on the pad and is impossible to sweep off. It melts and you've got yourself an increasingly damp home. (I've seen a lot of folks use these though, so I'm probably just missing something...) The blue pads I've had seem to soak up water on their surface a bit.

     

    As far as I'm concerned there's nothing more reliable, insulative, and lightweight for Alaska trips than the good old Evazote pads (Mr. Layton's "yellow hardman pad"). Throw an inflatable on top if you want more comfort.

     

    Have a blast up there.

     

    -Mark

     

     

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