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Marko

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Posts posted by Marko

    tag line

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    When using a tag line I rap both lines... when I set up the rap I set it up so that I am pulling the lead line (not the tag line) so that if the rope some how gets stuck when pulling the rap and I am forced to cut what I did manage to pull down/remains I am cutting the lead line... I set it up this was as I personally rather continue down with a piece of lead line not tag line.

     

    So how do you keep the skinny line from feeding through the rap device faster than the fat line and then subsequently start sawing through the rappel sling?

     

    My tag line is ~5 meters longer than my lead line to account for stretch of the lead/fat line... this extra also allows for some movement of the knot on the sling... whoever raps second always repositions the knot back against the rap sling prior to rapping though as some slippage does occur... I have never seen so much slippage or at a rate that cuts/melts the rap sling. What I do to minimize the amount of movement is I put an extra biner on just the skinny line side (total of 2) for rapping... the extra surface area seems to give enough friction so that the skinny line moves at about the same rate as the fat line... it helps that I don't climb on anything larger than 9.4 in the alpine also.

     

    I can take a pic if that would help.

     

    I'd be worried about the skinny line getting cut over an edge while you're rapping. On the other hand, if the tag line gets cut while you're yanking around on it to pull the ropes... yer in fer some fun.

     

    I'm guessing, also, that you're using Techcord which stretches a much less and is more cut resistant than my ratty 6mm Perlon. The 6mm stretches and slides a whole lot more than even the 9mm Stratos or the 8.5mm Sharp I usually use.

     

    I use the additional carabiner trick when rapping of the doubled 6mm alone but hadn't thought of rigging the 'biner just on the 6mm for double rope rappels. Good idea.

    tag line

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    When using a tag line I rap both lines... when I set up the rap I set it up so that I am pulling the lead line (not the tag line) so that if the rope some how gets stuck when pulling the rap and I am forced to cut what I did manage to pull down/remains I am cutting the lead line... I set it up this was as I personally rather continue down with a piece of lead line not tag line.

     

    So how do you keep the skinny line from feeding through the rap device faster than the fat line and then subsequently start sawing through the rappel sling?

    Anyone used a JetBoil stove above 10,000 ft?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted · Edited by Marko

    OK, I am open to learning new things. It appears that the Pocket Rocket may be a better stove than my XGK. It sure is lighter and I am in a lightening-up phase just now, big time. But how do you use one of those little things in the field? They seem so unsteady (small base area), plus a 2 liter pot of water makes them ‘way topheavy. How do stabilize them in practical use? My buddy knocked over the Jetboil at one point but the nudge he gave it would not have caused any harm if we had been using an XGK.

     

    thanks

     

    After spilling a couple pot fulls of hard won water with the Rocket and the small size canister, we came up with the idea of putting a bag of instant rice under the canister. Squish the canister into the rice and it's way more stable. Mind you it goes from insanely tippy to merely quite tippy. Everything's a compromise though right...

     

    MCash-

    The Pocket Rocket with the JetBoil pot, not the canister, was the quickest boil. Due to the heat exchanger no doubt.

     

    Yo Sky! Hope things are groovy man!

    You ever compare a Whisperlite with the XGK? I always use a Whisperlite up in AK and it seems faster than the XGKs I've been around. The burner is closer to the pot than with the XGK and could be an explanation.

     

    -M

    Interesting Cordellette Study

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    It was exactly the situation in which most climbers would have used a cordelette... because they believed it was a tool to equalize a three point anchor.

     

    It is directly because of this accident that professionals and guides have reevaluated the cordelette and found it wanting.

     

    So no one here makes a double sliding X for a 3-piece anchor using a cordelette?

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