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Posts posted by Marko
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good money smart option: buy some old plastics from 2nd ascent for CHEAP and then go to FF for some intuition liners. WARM and COMFY!!
This is a very good way to go. I've got an old pair of Lowa Denalis with Intuition liners fitted by a guy at Marmot. Zero heel lift and toasty to -40°.
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Both. The 'fat' rope takes basically all the weight, but the 6mm also threads through the rappel device. I haven't used the Techcord for rapping, but I imagine it's somewhat less user friendly going through the rappel device.
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Gary,
I've had pretty good luck stuffing 6mm cord into a gaitor and/or into a jacket front, and then pulling it out while rapping.
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...Also, glad to see you did clip cleaning, I've seen so many people out aiding that don't do it and struggle greatly...
Bigwalling-
What is clip cleaning? Same thing as back cleaning?
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Very impressive and inspiring adventure gents! I'm thinking yours was the most significant ascent in the Cascades done in a helluva long time. It's something Doorish would pull off!
Cheers,
Mark
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It's funnest when the whole thing is plastered in snow!
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Yet another fine photo from Mailbox Peak:
http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=12756&sort=1&cat=509&page=1
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Holy crap, that had to be some amazing flying. Cheers to the Pakistan army pilot. Glad Humar is down.
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Awesome job -- #3 of the blue collar triple crown. You only have Jberg and Nooksack to go (if you haven't done them already.
Ha! I like that bit.
Good climb gents!
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It's nice you manage to get out in the hills once in a while Sky! Did you see the two Richards up there?
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Oh man, you guys pulled it off! Friggin' great job!
I'm very psyched for you guys, that must have been a hell of an adventure. Inspiring!
Cheers y'all,
-M
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Finally found the CD with some Stuart photos on it. Maybe moving can be constructive after all.
http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=172
I seem to have managed to put them in reverse order however...
-M
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If you stay on the ridge crests there are 2 short bits that you may want to rappel.
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Something mellow like Cathedral Rock NE Buttress (the C.R. above Cooper Lk) or Sherpa W Ridge & Stuart or...
-Mark
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With crampons and an axe you should have no problemo.
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Holy shit youth, your 2 week holiday was more successful than my entire 25 year climbing career!
Nice job up there!
Any photos from A-strain?
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2. They dont transmit the cold like steel crampons do allowing one to have a little toastier toes up high.
Not really, aluminum has almost 4x the thermal conductivitiy of carbon steel.
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Snow doesn't stick to the yellow pad half as badly as it does to a ridge rest. Snow gets trapped in the ridges and melts.
This is exactly the reason smooth pads are WAY better than corrugated pads for your typical sufferfest. When you crawl into your tent during a storm you're going to bring in some snow that ends up sitting on your pad and melting there. The smooth pads make it easier to brush the snow off before it melts.
Evazotes also seem to absorb less water on their exposed surfaces than the blue pads. I'm thinking maybe the cells are smaller.
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Fits me well at ~6', sorta burgandy reddish, perfect shape, 50 bucks.
http://www.marmotmountain.com/MMWmain.asp?Option=Detail&StyleID=10000872
-Mark
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Man that looks great! Way to make good use of the last of that stellar weather.
48 or 49...No wonder in the early '90s we started calling the peak "Mt. Nelson".
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So very nice. Well done! Especially spicy what with that compact rock no doubt.
-M
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Man, I'm still drooling over the pictures of your climb. Please, more, more!
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Holy crap! That thing looks amazing. You guys did us all proud!
So...
How fast have you all climbed Mt. Stuart?
in Alpine Lakes
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No way man. Hell, it's taken me 8 days car to car before to fail on the north side!