Marko
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Posts posted by Marko
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I would like to report that the Fairview is alive and well. To the detriment of my liver...
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My Mythos seem to actually wear better than my board lasted shoes. I'm thinking it's because the rubber isn't backed up by the hard last and is able to deform *around* rocks and whatnot rather than be subjected to more of a point contact. Only a hypothesis at this point...
On the other hand, it's your feet that take the abuse.
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Very friggin' cool.
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Just sent you a PM.
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So I went and bought one and used it up in the hills the other night (~20°F). Kinda cool all unitized and all. It'll be a great hanging stove. Seemed similar in cool weather performance to the old Pocket Rocket. Pot's OK if you're not in a hurry melting snow, but sucks if you're used to a 2 liter pot.
Then I took it home and did a battle of the stoves boiling ice blocks. Attached are the results in an Excel spreadsheet.
Basically, in spite of the better efficiency of canister stoves, I'm taking the old tried and true Whisperlight up to Alaska again.
Blaze on,
Mark
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I think he's right, it's more alpine ice really.
Well done gents!
-M
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Anyone use these in cold weather and have an opinion on them?
Thanks
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Fuckin' wicked.
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Right on Ade and Waz! Yeah, there's actually some pretty cool lines up the cliffy bits. Just to the right of the little route we did but hidden in your topo, there's a cool looking WI 5, M??, further right there's a stiffer looking rig (the fangs visible to the right).
What did the ice slabs to the left of your route look like? Was shite melting out up there at all?
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Unfortunately my camera was resting comfortably at home in my armchair. Man, it turned out to be a purdy day out!
(Yeah right, Nelson's an armchair dood, sure thing, okeedokee.)
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Almost none.
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Do any of you folk think the south face route would be climbable now? Mostly exposed rock or is it covered by tons of snow/snice? I'm a super noob but thought it might be an accessible climb this weekend. Any ideas?
Cheers.
I rapped the S Face on Saturday and it was certainly climbable; fairly consolidated snow over rock. After this snowfall it'll still be good, just more digging for holds and gear. The Mighty Tooth is always a great climb!
The central part of the NE Slab seemed like it was better than the traversing bit that folks tried this weekend. Not much for gear, but where it was steep the sticks were OK. The rest was crust over sugar over rock but luckily not steep.
-M
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Very cool Ade. Well done!
-M
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Mmmmmmmmmm.....world alpine domination....mmmmmmmmm
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Plus he's a solid human being.
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Definitely a fun route, made all the better because: "several tri-cams (invaluable)".
Good show y'all.
-M
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THAT be the truth!
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Colin doesn't have a thread, he has a life.
(I still say he's a fucking slacker!)
-M
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WT Denali is basically a WT belay jacket with double the amount of insulation. Cut/fabric/etc are all the same.
Not sure about the hood issue.
Ain't seeing it on the WT website, have you seen them around?
Thanks
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Nice job Sky. I'm glad you didn't have any route-finding problems!
(Torrrrrmmmmmennnnnnt-FFFFForrrrrrrbbbbbiddddddennnnnnn...)
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GoLite 6 month night parka. WARM!
These looked pretty good except I don't see them being made anymore. Buying used isn't great due to synthetics losing their loft fairly quickly over time.
Bronco,
Yeah, I've got a 3-4 yr old WT belay parka that's nice except the hood doesn't fit well over a helmet. So is the new model better?
Also, I'm looking for a -30F kinda thing.
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Anyone know of a belay parka warmer than the DAS? The new model doesn't seem to have near the loft of the model from 5 or so years ago.
Thanks
-M
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In all things, go ramenless.
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Prussik E Ridge? Colchuck N Ridge? Some kinda ridge over east somewhere?
-Mark
Missing Climbers
in Alaska
Posted
Keep an eye on this site: http://www.nps.gov/dena/home/news/ The weather's still too crappy to fly the summit area apparently.
Their missing is hard to believe.