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Marko

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Posts posted by Marko

    Stuart's complete N Ridge in Winter

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    Thanks for the good words all. Layton's right though, we got lucky with the great weather, zero wind, and the great conditions. Last weekend was the only weekend we both could scam 4-5 days off and the weather complied.

     

    How many times have we all arranged a trip way in advance and gone into the hills in spite of a shitty forecast and then gotten puked off the route? We definitely had luck on our side this time.

     

    Speaking for myself, I'll take luck over skill 90% of the time.

     

    Good luck to us all!

    ID eVent Tents no Longer Available

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    How are those BD firstlight tents working for people in high winds?

    Good 4 season choice?

     

    So here's the deal with the Firstlight we used on Stuart both times: It breathes a helluva lot better when you fully close the vent and door at night. It took numerous nights of condensation accummulation to figure this out. And it sure is light.

     

    When it's blowing like stink, snow/ice particles seem to blow THROUGH the fabric and melt onto one's already pathetically insufficient sleeping bag. Not so fun.

     

    Did I mention that it sure is light?

    Ice In the Cabinets/Selkirks

    in Central/Eastern Washington

    Posted

    OK, Matt, I thought about this some more.

     

    There was once a guy I ran across on the internet (on rec.climbing.com, I think) named Joe Bensen who did some FAs with Randall Green and others in the Selkirks about 20 years ago. I think he still lives in Spokane or mebbe Sandpoint. You could try searching him out on RC.com or thru other means.

     

    I think he told me he hooked up with Roskelley and Kopczynski as well for a few adventures. I know that JR is a county commissioner up there, and your Spokane climbing group has "access" to him. Mebbe you could pimp Ol' John for some hidden gems, eh?

     

    Just thoughts... I'll keep quiet now.

     

    This is the Joe I was thinking of. He lived in Sandpoint, wrote a couple guide books, published his photos, travelled a bunch.

     

    Oops, should of clarified that a bit better, eh!

     

    -Mark

    Ice In the Cabinets/Selkirks

    in Central/Eastern Washington

    Posted

    I tried climbing Liberty Ridge with Joe about 8 yers ago. I heard he died in an avalanche two years ago. Can anyone confirm that?

    Jim in McCall, Idaho

     

    Yes, he died on Mt. Ushba, Georgia, CIS in 2001 or so. He was a neat guy and quite a photographer...

     

     

    Never fucking underestimate avalanches.

    FS: Integral Designs MK1 Lite Bivy Tent

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted

    Like new, perfect shape, no holes, seam tape inside and sealed outside, yellow. It has the little awning over the door so you can leave it open a bit for cooking inside while it's snowing/storming. ~3 lbs 14oz.

     

    It's a great tent but I'm plunking down the big bucks for the new eVent tent instead.

     

    300 clams. Kent/Tukwila. 206-465-1432

     

    Here's a couple pictures of it:

    http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=504&page=1

    http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=504&page=1

     

    -Mark

    [TR] Mt. Stuart: (winter ascent)- Complete North Ridge 12/24/2004

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    Nice effort gents! To get so high on your first shot at it is excellent. Leave it to Wayne to pick a short weather window and try to blast out a hard objective.

     

    I've gone in to try that particular route in winter 6 times and only this time got above the first pitch. (Of course when you go in there with The Alpine Ropegun you're going to do at least a dozen pitches!)

     

    See you up there next time...(manic cackling)

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