Colin

Skipped the last period of school today and went up to the numbered falls at Alpental. This year's light snowpack has been a big bonus here, for there are many little ice climbs that are completely buried under snow during most winters. It is certainly no ice climbing destination, but what better place is there to go on a weekday afternoon?

dbb, When I was there on Sunday, we had no ideo whether to go in the gully on the right or in the runnel on the left. We opted for the gully on the right because it looked lower angled, but the left option looked like it had much more ice. If there is any time to find the way you went doable, it is probably now.

Yes, I found the purple sling around the icicle in the back of the cave. We used some slings by the floor of the cave though. It is really funny that we are finding out who left what gear on Chair's descent gully! How odd, yet amusing.

I climbed the NE Buttress on Sunday. As Dan said, the N face was not in, but the Buttress was very nice. I agree that it was a great route. On Sunday we were the only people up there, except for one party who climbed the descent. Dan, thankyou for the two-piton rap anchor. Did you leave that Omega locking biner on the first anchor?

Hey everyone. I've gotten three trail park pass violations put on my windshield in the past year. Each one told me to send them $5.00. I didn't respond to any of them. Are there any consequences?

I've been a member of the AAC for a couple years, and I am glad that I joined. True, it isn't much of a "club." However, it is a great resource for climbing I find. I think that the membership is easily worth the publications that one gets. AAC Newsletters, Accidents in North American Mountaineering, and the American Alpine Journal are great publications. Also, I think that the grant program is an excellent way for alpinists to fund expeditions without getting sponsored by some lamo company.

The three main attributes that you want seem to be: good on pure water ice, good on alpine routes, and inexpensive. If I were you, I would definitely go with BD Shrikes, not BP's. Not only are Shrikes significantly lighter (a big alpine bonus), but they climb almost as well on waterfalls. Not to mention the fact that Shrikes are much less expensive. Even if BP's and Shrikes were the same price, I think that I would get Shrikes because of the weight difference.

I have not had much experience with the WAC, but I know that the Mountaineers is extremely bureaucratic. You'll learn in one year through the Mountaineers basic course, what an experienced climber could teach you in five days up in Boston Basin. Of course, finding an experienced climber willing to spend a lot of time of his/her teaching you could be quite hard. As to which organization is better, I don't know, but be prepared to be frustrated with incompetant basic students ("accidents waiting to happen" as I have heard them called).

Personally, out of those two tools I would definitely go with the Rambo's. Charlet Moser tools are heavy, and the shaft on the Ralmbo's is thinner, making it easier on your forearms. I don't know if you have ruled them for some reason, but I would definitely reccommend BD tools (shrikes for alpine, or cobras for pure ice routes).

When I suggested "spectra cord," I did not mean flat spectra webbing. Spectra cord (5.5mm Gemini, which you use for your cordelletes, IS made of spectra) CAN be tied, and has a strength of 22kn (the same as commercially sewn slings).

For my runners, I always use single spectra slings tripled over, and I let them out when there might be rope drag. A friend of mine always uses the single/tripled system, but he uses tied perlon 6mm cord instead of spectra. He argues that on alpine climbs cord is more versatile for such things as v-threads, and retying slings for rap anchors in general. This sounds like a good justification to me, but I think that perlon is heavier, and significantly weaker than spectra. Perhaps spectra cord, or maxim tech cord are the best of both worlds? I would appreciate anyone's opinions on the subject.

I think that it might be a good choice for double or twin rope systems, simply because it is autolocking. The Kong GiGi does this for followers, but this device is supposedly autolocking for both leaders and followers with double or twin ropes. Therefore, one could eat, take pictures, or organize the rack while belaying (as long as they do a good enough job of paying out or taking in slack).

Has anyone out there used or heard about the Cassin "Twin" belay device. It is supposed to be a lightweight, autolocking device for double or twin ropes. There's a picture of it at: http://www.cassin.it/215e.htm [This message has been edited by Colin (edited 12-07-2000).]

I have the DTS tracker and I only have good things to say about it. But, I hear that the new Barryvox transceiver, which is sold by Burton, is a very good one. It is supposed to be the lightest and smallest beacon, but it is also digital. Worth checking out.

Actually, silvretta 300's are lighter than the silvretta 500's, not to mention significantly less expensive. In my opinion, you are either going to go backcountry skiing, or you are going to use skis to approach a climb. So for approaching a winter climb I think that silvretta 300's mounted on a pair of fat 130's or 140's is definitely the way to go. Silvretta 300's do not have a sideways release mechanism, but if you are skiing in your climbing boots you probably won't put all that much torque on your legs anyway.

I am considering three different options of what rope system to use on alpine climbs that require full-length rappels. I cannot yet decide whether I should buy two twin ropes, two half ropes, or a 60m length of 7mm static line to compliment my 60m 9.4mm single rope. I would appreciate anyone posting why they like or dislike any particular rope system.

Dan! That's awesome man. Why carry boots up a rock route with a snowfield in the middle when you can just put crampons on your rock shoes? Is there any route in particular that you made them for? I assume that you only plan to use them on really beefy rock shoes like the La Sportiva Mega. Very cool. -Colin