layton

yeah, prime location, no competition, lots of big spenders! Try opening up a full scale climbing wall too. You'll be rich

I sprinted the whole way down. I am paying for it cuz my pack cut into my neck and back pretty bad. showers hurt. I am gonna try and beat Dan's time somewhere over the next 3 years, unless someone climbs it faster...then forget it.

Here's a photo of the climb on Sat:

Climb: Hood-South Side Crack o Noon Club HighEnergy Blitz Slog Date of Climb: 4/11/2004 Trip Report: 1st of all my shoulder is messed up from overuse, so this weekend had to be non shoulder stuff. so sat i went on a 7hr mtn bike ride and came home really tired so i missed my alarm this morning. Luckily I woke up at 10am. I decided to check out Mt. Hood since i never have even been up to Timerline Lodge or anything. The snow was a bit soft and was sorta kinda firm near the top. no ice or rockfall. I didn't need crampons, an ax, a helmet, a shirt, or pants(which i brought). Definately didn't need snowshoes or skiis(didn't bring). I got sunburned from not wearing a shirt. Then i went down the mtn to my car. lots of aerobic b.s. this weekend. hope i can climb again soon. Left Car: 12:30pm Top of Mt Hood: 3:00pm Back at Car: 3:40pm pretty good for my 1st time on hood, eh? Gear Notes: some type of footwear walkman water poles Approach Notes: snow

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it sux

Just got back from J-tree. Thanks for putting up with the 3rd grade behavior Carolyn! Hope you are recovering from the spankfest! Jay and I went to Tahquitz for a few days after you left and climbed in the American climbing history books which was neat and a good spanking on different granite. Then we went back to J-tree for 4 more days and respanked ourselves silly. I did imaginary voyage again today super clean and jay was able to follow it (mostly) this time. I ran it out a bit more too. This time after jamming both feet under the flake and reaching out backwards i was able to swing each foot out and cam them into the offwitdth and hang upsidedown from both feet and easily grab the final pinch holds. Weirdest moves I've ever done on lead and the most fun i've EVER had climbing. I lost a good deal of skin and blood these past 14 days. Good times. Thanks again Carolyn. Hope sunny MN seems easier now. and nice job on your leads once again. didn't see any other cc.comers, but i really didn't look. hope you had fun too those who went or are going.

sorry to hear that man. lake padden in the summer w/crutches is fun though.

jesus christ! add this to my list of places to climb in winter!! anyone else spot the line?

That's right Mr.Dolittle

shouldn't you guys be out playing dungeons and dragons? oh la la pomplemouse! oui?

The breast climber is the one with the most funds.

What Alex really meant, "To be the best climber is the most fun!"

I passed her en route in the canadian rockies. she was cool about it though.

after about a day of fiddling w/the pro. it's pretty straightforward. go for it! get some active pro too. passive pro is too lazy. but seriously, get or borrow some cams cuz nobodys gonna want to climb w/you if you only use nuts. save your $ on the hexes and cowbells and buy a cam. i suggest the red alien for starts. once you have one cam on your rack, it will constantly remind you to get more. borrow some cams to practice. once the idea of how to use the gear becomes clear (should be a few hours of poking around) mock lead something ez and then lead it for real. place a shit load of gear. sew it up hardcore. that way you will not only be safer, you'll have gotten that much more practice placing gear. move to a harder climb, repeat. get your lead head and do it on day one. have your partner criticize every piece. read all the how to booksover and over and over again. GOOD LUCK!

avg time is around 2-3 hours up.

from france? are you gonna pull through my gear, clove my line, and shit on the ledge above whilst smoking a Gallouse?

right on. i live pretty close to broughton and rocky butte so i'd like to get a few pitches in a week during the weekdays after skoul since the days are longer now.

i call total bullshit on 1.5 hours from any road, even a new one, to the SW route. (unless Dan - was your source-he's really fast i hear, maybe the fastest?)

Jason Martin and Dru are on the money! If you are on alpine ice and you come across water ice, fuck yeah! vthread that shit. if it's snow, bollard. Webbing is a plus on bollards, but i usually just have the rope run inside the bollard w/o using a sling. in fact i've never rapped off webbing on a bollard. you'd better be backing that up with a picket or something. if the 1st makes it down ok, then it's good to go and pull your back up. make sure the 1st rapper makes an anchor of sorts (good stance even) before you commit in case you pull it. always have Fatty rap first.

Listen to Slothrop. only take pins on an ice route (almost always in the alpine except for obvious climbs that are all ice), or an established rock climb that specifically states that pins are necessary -even then try not to use em. The only time other than that is when you are doing a 1st acsent. If you are doing something that requires pins in the alpine and aren't ice climbing, a nice lightweight childrens' ice hammer (Simon Fox) works sweet, and Grivel makes something heavier but similiar. This way you also have an ice ax for any glacier approachin' or icy cracks. the pick is very nice for cleaning moss outta cracks too.

sweet. i was thinking of soling hood last night, but went aid practicing at broughtons with IVAN instead. i think the NF would be a lot more fun in late fall when its a sheet of ice.

good point. too bad the guy i was gonna do it with car died. going rock climbin'

people like me who can only afford a map and usually forget to bring it anyways usually do fine. get an anolgue altimeter. don't be a geek like these techies. shackleton wouldn't approve.