layton

all I know is there are tons of routes just as pretty with much better rock. That being said, Dragontail is a fucking cool place to be shitty rock and all. Gotta love the Fin and the O.W. on backbone! The rest is a blur. Yes, I also climb things that are 10d (X), and also another plug for "Back of Beyond Buttress" a 10b with solid pro the whole way up and just about if not the best alpine rock climb I've ever done. I was told it is in this years CAJ, and last years AAJ.

hey I already said that!

ok I just finished scanning about 100 photos so I am outta here! Gimme a call if you can track down my b'ham # or I'll check my email before 6pm.

You'll have to ask MisterE. I put a cam at it's base to keep it connected to the mountain while i stood ontop of it. It mighta held a fall?

I am still planning on climbing with you sun/mon.

I'm in H112 at WWU right now if any of your B'ham college posers wanna climb

NOLSe, aren't we climbing at least Sat and Sunday? Are you trying to get rid of me? This guy wants a weekend partner. I need one NOW!!!!

ok it's been 45 minutes and no partner. what the fuck?

Only FA's or Bertulis routes this summer!

I'm talking about the wall/mtn that is part of the colchuck balanced rock massif, the highest wall up the pass. I hope wayne posts his info on dragontail. It's confusing b/c it looks different from any aspect or vantage point you look at the NE face from. p.s. About MisterE and my route.... we're not claiming any big prize. it could have been done, but i doubt it. Just a fun day out with no guidbook, searching for adventure (which we found).

My partner called this morning with food poisoning so our plan fell through. I'm sick of making phone calls and leaving messages so I'll just post here and see what comes up. I'd like to do the N.F. direct on Nooksack Tower wed and thurs or something else similar in character. I don't have a computer at home so I'll check my PM's around 5:30 tonight. Give me a call if you know my phone #, or get it from someone who knows it (the bellingham #). I've made tenous backup plans just in case I can't get someone, so if you are reading this and were included in my backup plan and didn't realize that it was a backup plan, call me and I won't bail on you. p.s. You must be comfortable on something like this, it is a serious climb. I know the approach well. Other ideas include Mt.Baring, Grand Wall, Davisholland, silverstar, Davis Peak, and darrington slabs. The other big stuff I have promised to other partners.

I like the twin cascades coming outta his nose

Never eat at a place called Mom's Never drink at a place called Joe's and Never go out with a woman with more problems than you have.

The NE face of dragontail has nice cracks all over, unforetunately the rock is mostly garbage, and if it is good, it's covered in loose shit from above. I honestly wouldn't bother with Dragonfly or any other route on the NE side. Backbone ridge is pretty much the best line on the mtn, and it's pretty junky too. I think the NE side has had it's day in the sun. The best line still looks like that big dihedral, although I wouldn't expect it to be a very good route. If I was to go back, I would try a line on the other side of the glacier on that huge granite mountain across from the NE face of D-tail. Bring yer aiders though.

Here are some I've done that are good: Backbone ridge Rebel Yell NW Corner Clean Break Lexington N.Ridge Stuart Carlos Rossi Memorial Tower Sunshine Chimney Hypertension Cirque of the Uncrackables Aries Haven't done: Pipeline don't have guidebooks or my journal on me but that's off the top of my head w/o thinking too hard

I think that the bad politicians are mean and that we should vote for the nice ones. I also think that we should take a look at our dogmatic views on politics liberal or conservative and check every fact to its sourse if we are gonna believe them or quote them. I also think that you guys must have too much money to have this big an opinion on politics cuz real climbers don't have enough dough to give a shit. Thank you for allowing uninformed dirtbag to post.

I'm offended that this has been moved to the Alpine Lakes area. Kudos to MisterE for being a great partner and putting up with my shit. It threatened to rain on us all day long so we were lucky. I gotta climb some dinky little thing w/some loser the next couple days, then I'll develop my film.

Nice dood!

That's been on my Hush Hush list for a while. Can someone please delete this thread?

Above is the NE face. The obvious shadowed dihedral was our original objective. Our route starts in the shadowed dihedral on the very lower right hand side of the NE face and climbs the NE arete to the top of the NE towers. link to thread I stole this photo from MisterE should be posting the real photos soon, right????

Climb: Dragontail Peak-F.A.- Der DieHedral Date of Climb: 6/27/2004 Trip Report: 1st Ascent: Der DieHedral, 6p var to NE Arete on Dragontail Peak. 14 pitches. IV 5.10b ®. 6/27/04 Eric Wolf and Mike Layton. You gotta love the weather forecasting that's been going on these days. N.Cascades 60%, Der Leavenworthen 40%. Next day it's 0%. Then back up to 20%. Well MisterE and I figured it would be nice so we drove up to Der WorthLeaven and managed to get 3 full hours of sleep before our 3am wakeup call. We were going to try a new route up a major dihedral system on the NE face of Dragontail peak I had noticed on a photo someone posted on this site. 4 hours later we are finishing our final step-kick to the base of the NE face. Turns out that original dihedral (looks mid 5.10 and 5-6 pitches) is really really wide the whole way up. Definately doesn't look fun. Although it would be an interesting ascent. Bring you and you're friends #5 cams and big bros. Anyway, above us loomed another shorter diehedral, but WAY lower down Asguard Pass which was nice b/c it mean the route would be longer. Age before beauty, so Eric got the 1st lead, the luck bastard. It looked like crap but a hidden LONG 5.8 fingertip undercling flake (amazing) led to a 2 inch splitter (also amazing) back to the fingertip flake. As I follwed I was really hoping the whole route would be this good. This was a 120 meter lead. My pitches were in the dihedral itself and were both 70meter rope stretchers. The lower dihedral was tenous, but not too hard. The upper pitch I led, known as the "Belayer Slayer" required precise footwork and careful hold selection. It went at 10b ® and was the crux of the route. Eric got a couple leads after this and one went up a steep slabby face with splitter 1-2" cracks and went at 5.8 Now we were on the N.E. Arete which is the 1972 route in the beckey guide. We swapped leads up the ridge which was kinda easy, but required careful climbing and the exposure was wild. After about 1500' of ridgeclimbg we got to the N.E. tower summits which marked the end of the N.E. arete and the end of some awesome climbing. One rappel and some scrambling got us to the snow basin below dragonail and the Witches towers. There we ran into Kenford and Paco coming down from the Backbone ridge. Kenford was limping badly so we knew something was awry. Turns out he fell onto his heel and did something very bad to it. Maybe broke his calcaneus. Anyway, it was a really shitty place to have something like that happen. Luckilly he slid on his ass all the way down Asguard Pass IN SHORTS!!! Hardcore! MisterE had his 1st glissading experience and he was really psyched about that. What an amazing 1st glissade. 2000' of rocket power feet skiing. I hope Kenford didn't injure himself too badly on the hike out. I can only imagine how much pain he was in by the time they got to their car and how long the hike out must've taken. Hope you guys got some beer before the hospital! I am going to attach some photos MisterE took in a sec so hold your horses. You gotta wait for me to finish my roll before I post my photos. Gear Notes: Standard Rack up to 4 inches We used a 70m rope and used ever inch of it. Approach Notes: No crampons needed

Dude, you were the guys we met in the 'lot in the sweet VW van.

Once again, Whodunnit is amazing as is Open Book

what about this so called, "hut girl?" I want one

Community Service Project takes the obvious line on Cuttroat Peak's West Face (upper 2/3 of face shown): Chucky Cheese installs the "Wack-a-Marmot" mallet game on the Cuttroat Peak approach. Literally hundreds of marmots popin' up everywhere! I won enough tickets to buy a plastic paratrooper figure, Jordop, the ultimate marmot whacker, won a giant foam ten gallon hat. View West on Community Service Project to other crappy projects Jordon Peters showing how you can't judge a route by it's photo each rappel has it's own blend of charm and grave...er grace Here's the nasty boring and totally ugly death march out. Hope it didn't crack your moniter glass!