pms

it looks like the climb described in this TR is the Ptarmigan route. The Couloir routh seems to hold snow longer and perhaps stays in condition later into the year. Always fun to remember the ptarmigans however. On July 25th they climbed Spider, Formidable, and Magic. On the 26th Johannesburg with a night out, returning to camp at Cascade Pass on the 27th. Sahale, Boston, and Buckner (N Face) on the 28th. Followed by a little hike down Stehekin River, up Agnes Creek, over Cloudy Pass, and down the Suiattle to their car.

I love forbidden, but good choice taking advantage of the conditions on buckner. also the ptarmigan n face rt. is great.

sorry bronc, I've only done 5, 4 when you take off bear.

and then there are the hardest traverses - stuart range as/per croft - southern pickets - northern pickets - silverstar/wine - and original ptarmigan(still unrepeated after 60+ years).

I'd be interest to hear how Tom ranks this list. Which ones are hardest. He's probably done them all. Havbe you climbed burgundy Tom?

except for Bear a pretty difficult looking list.

nice trip. You guys made great time. Your old man kicks butt. I was in the group you met on the glacier, cheers.

really enjoying these articles. Great work all.

Hokus, Another long time Munter user here, since mid 80's. I use it for belaying the leader about 95% of the time. Use Cinch/grigri on occasion. I use it for belaying the second off the anchor about 75% of the time. Auto-block device about 25%, especially when climbing in a team of 3. Occasionally for rappelling. I like the slot devices for rappelling because they make it very difficult for the two cords to wrap around each other, which adds friction and more difficult to pull the ropes. Not a problem if you pay attention to your ropes. I currently like the Petzl Verso for single ropes, and DMM Bugette for HALF and TWIN ropes. One thing about the auto-block munter which I have liked using lately. I have not figured out an easy way to release once loaded. Anyone know if there is a way, other than raising the climber? The climbing mag. piece did not mention anything about releasing once loaded. For this reason I don't use it on steep or overhanging, which is an unlikely scenario for me anyway.

might be one for Uli's generation, or someone's who climbed city park.

I wonder how often SL is climbed these days? I don't mean TR.

As someone who appreciates the climbing at the Pinnacles, and has led Slender Thread a number of times; I sure wouldn't mind seeing a bolt added to the start of Slender Thread. And for Midway DD. I believe there is a bolt missing? Above Jello there is the old bolt with homemade hanger, followed by a good 3/8" bolt, followed by a hole where there used to be a 3/8" bolt which protected the crux. I believe as a result of poor bolting by the FA. Hole too deep for the type of bolt used, and therefore not tight and now gone. Anyone else remember two good bolts above the old one?

nice, I love that peak. Miller to Navaho traverse is a favorite.

The winds were really bugging me in the Icicle on Sunday. I was looking at Stuart all day thinking you went for a hike instead. Cool pictures.

I think you need to see it again

what do you mean you thought you saw one? maybe you saw this. Do you remember the look Rob Harris gave asking if you'd heard that someone had skied the 3C's. Kind of like the look I gave him years ago when he told me that he and Gordon had skied the Cannon Couloir. Neat to see all the skiing going on.

ditto - got any video skiing through the woods in mountaineer cr.?

Bitchin, thanks for raising my heart rate. I don't suppose DH was wearing one of those helmet cams on this one? I just love that stuff.

Kit has never been much into kegs, but basically correct analysis on that rope choice.

co-owned that one with Kit. His idea for the extra margin and comfort level jumaring, etc. Loved that rope. way to go with the hockey

my experience owning these 23 ropes tends to support the Berdinka theory. Of these ropes, I've only been unhappy with the performance of two. Least favorite by a wide margin was the MSR 11. Loved it, but hated it. Handling wise, I prefer my skinny ropes a bit on the stiff side, and my fat ropes a bit softer. Goldline 3/8” Mammut 9 MSR 11 (2) Edelrid 11 Chouinard/Mammut 10.5 Edelrid 10 Mammut Galaxy 10 Edelrid 11.5 (3) Edelweiss Stratos 9 (3) Edelweiss Sharp 8.5 Blue Water 9.8 (2) Roca 8 Edelweiss 8.5 Beal 8.1 Sterling 9.6 Millett 9.8 PMI 8.1

how about a don and natala traverse, with the mark-wayne-colin picket variation followed by the ptarmigan enchainment polish style

top 3 hardest climbing trips all time in the cascades. Original ptarmigan enchainment, don and natala traverse, mark-wayne-colin southern pickets, ptarmigan ascent of fury.

and the Ptarmigans were the first to enchain many of the peaks of the Ptarmigan Traverse. I find their P trips fascinating. Maybe the french got the idea from those guys

Interesting that after 70+ years the Ptarmigan traverse as done by the original party has not seen a second ascent, or anything even close (summiting the same peaks say). Who can repeat this amazing classic. Get on it someone..