offwidthclimber

Nice. Somewhat interesting story follows: While attending the University of Idaho, I was in the bookstore one spring day with a friend who was purchasing something. In my boredom I decided to peruse a random $1 book sale table. While digging around, I came across a copy of "Memoirs of a Mountain Guide." I thought, "what a score" and dug a dollar out of my pocket. Anyway, after I got home and eventually started reading the book, I noticed inside the book there was a signature reading "Lou Whittaker." Anyway, I found out that Lou had given a slideshow/presentation at the UI sometime after authoring the book. Apparently he signed a number of books while there. Somehow, one of those copies found its way to the $1 bin at the university bookstore. I've never met the guy, yet have an autographed copy of one of his books. Cheers,

i found this link a long time ago. it's pretty decent: http://flash.lakeheadu.ca/~lurock/crack.html uh, other than that, i would personally recommend taping at first because sloppy technique will shred your hands. on the same note, once you get a little more proficient, try jamming without the tape. you don't always need tape. i use it most the time (especially now since the backs of my hands are soft from about 7 months of bouldering only), but when i was climbing cracks a lot, i could get away without tape most the time. and on some sizes and textures, it is just better not to have sloppy tape in the way. good luck! cheers,

dude, if you're from the seattle area, there's no better place to hone your crack skills after work than the U.W. rock... well, besides heading an hour norht east to index. the U.W. rock is where i first learned real crack climbing skills. you can cheat many of the cracks there with face/foot holds, but stay true to the pure jamming for the real deal. hands, fists, finger and off sizes too. warm summer evenings, soft gravel landings, raggae tunes from a parked VW bus and some cold beers... can't beat that for not leaving the city! aside from that, when you get out there, my limited experience = thumbs up to pisces/libra crack @ the great northern slab in index - stout 10a crack, but fun (i've only seconded), and the first pitch of godzilla (5.9) to second pitch of city park (5.10b) - great crack pitches, although not as thuggish as libra/pisces (only seconded those pitches too). classic crack in the icicle is a great 5.8 crack too, and the left variation has a good 5.9 start - a little wide and funky. anyway, heed the recommendations of the real crack climbers out there and have fun. it's the best part of climbing as far as i'm concerned! cheers.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: From : "JOE CITZEN" <verticalfreadomfighter@hotmail.com> Look at his email address. The dumbass can't even spell freedom right. Its gonna take more brain power than that to form a posse of cell phone carrying idiots... Oh yeah, CITIZEN is spelled incorrectly also. Strike two... [This message has been edited by offwidthclimber (edited 08-03-2001).]

oops. my bad. [This message has been edited by offwidthclimber (edited 07-31-2001).]

with the way some people bitch and moan about alleged "rules" (pulling on pieces, leading all the pitches, etc) i guess you could call it a "sport." seems like some people are more worried about using the "rules" to validate or invalidate ascents, than they are about the actual climbing personally, it's a hobby to me, but to each their own. peace.

Dude, there's no way I can narrow down my favorite beer. That's tought. Spaten Optimator, Guinness, Caffrey's, Fat Tire - they all rank high in my book. Of course, when low on coin, you can't go wrong with Lucky/Oly stubbies or "Hamms the beer refreshing, Hamms!"

quote: Originally posted by Christopher: ....one second later he I were roling in the brush...his girl was crying...mine was screaming and crying...need I say more no, you need not say more. you need to chill out and smoke that joint you were talking about earlier

quote: Originally posted by Dwayner: Also, Mr. Offwidth, rappeling off slings doesn't permanently harm the environment. Slings can be readily removed and their color can be selected to be less unsightly if aesthetics is a big concern. B] hey dwayner, just to clarify, i wasn't implying that slings harm the environment, rather probing the extent of Jman's anti fixed gear campaign to see if rap slings were kosher in his book, but not other fixed gear. and yes, i agree - discussing particular climbs and areas can have progressive results, judging by this weekend's activities at castle rock. however, the random, all encompassing "all bolts and fixed anchors suck and using them for any reason is wrong" argument is more geared towards flamefests and battlecages. so Jman, you've never done a climb where you couldn't either sling your rope over a tree or horn for rappelling, or just walk off? cheers all.

thanks for the clarification Jman. as long as you've never used any fixed gear then i guess you can say what you do without being a hypocrite. ever use slings to rap off? however, this whole conversation is still lame. it's been hashed out here over and over. this regurgitation of the issue isn't going to change a thing.

not normal pnw behavior, just sounds like a handful of your average idiots. just keep walking by. maybe it will prove embarrassing enough that she'll either hold it in the future or go off trail.

so, are fixed belay or rap anchors okay? hell, fixed pins leave scars too. i hope you've never used pin or bolt anchors before...

okay, pardon my ignorance (especially if it's already been disclosed in this lengthy topic), but... all this commotion has got me curious. having never climbed at castle, what is DDD like? what type of rating, pro, how long is the route, etc...? anyway, the ensuing pissing match is lame. kudos to those who restored a trad line back to it's original state. and beyond that, i think it's time for this topic to r.i.p. what's done is done and there's really nothing left to say. cheers, micah

gotta agree with you johnny. fire is an important part of the ecosystem and forest health. it should happen regularly in a healthy matter rather than be suppressed for centuries and result in catastrophic firestorm (yellowstone 1988). however, in this "drier than usual blah, blah, blah" year i think the forest service is likely to suppress early season fires rather than let them burn themselves out. i think the fear of catastrophic fires ripping through the dry forests is motivation.

quote: Originally posted by pope: Now, replace "sport climbing" with any of the following: clear cutting, auto theft, some guy screwin' your wife, etc. apples and oranges man. but yes, i understand what you're getting at. regardless, sport climbing exists and i personally don't think it needs to disappear. that's only my opinion. as long as it is kept in check and doesn't interfer with trad climbing and trad routes. chuck, i see what you're saying as well. although some chossy overhanging cliff devoid of natural pro opportunities, that is otherwise not used for climbing, seems like a decent place for bolted sport routes ...if someone wants to go through the trouble. you're not a rap bolter peace.

quote: Originally posted by pope: ...They represent the diminishment of adventure, the lowering of a mountain's defenses so that mediocre climbers have access. similarly, using cams, as opposed to just using stoppers, lowers the mountain's defenses so those who are not skilled at placing a hex or nut can climb too. it goes both ways. do you ever use bolts to rappel? are they okay for that use, but not as pro? sport climbing exists. it's not going away. deal with it. if you don't like it, ignore it and don't go to sport climbing venues and don't clip bolts. it's as simple as that. you have the choice. trad climbing is not better than sport climbing, nor is alpine climbing or mountaineering better than bouldering. it's just different. we're all climbers and it's all good. peace.

i feel so cheated that i was schooled in america...

soloing is all up to the individual. i've soloed some. and it's always been easy stuff. but i don't anymore. perhaps it's because it would suck to slip and die on some stupid 5.6, which leads to the bigger issue that you CAN slip on easy stuff - even HARD climbers. i don't know how many times i read in a mag that "so and so missed the onsight when he/she fell on an easier section near the top." although it doesn't happen often, 5.12 climbers can slip on 5.8 terrain. personally, it's not worth the risk to me anymore. i kind of feel like the more i soloed, the greater chance of the odds catching up with me and taking that ride. and i'm not ready for that! i feel highball bouldering feeds that urge for freedom - to climb completely free of gear and restraints.

nutrition be damned! powerbars taste like reconstituted cardboard. eat a snickers or a butterfinger. on a related note, i read an article again last night by peter croft about when he first started doing long linkups and long technical traverses in the mountains. through experimentation, he discovered that he could survive on 500 - 700 calories a day without a loss in performance. experiment with your caloric needs. you could save a few bones by not intaking calories you don't need!

information on bouldering in the coeur d'alene area. look for updates and more route/problem info soon! http://www.port84.com/bouldering/

Sedona would be another Red Rocks if the sandstone wasn't so shitty. Probably the most solid climb there is The E. Face of the Mace. I climbed it when I lived in Phoenix. Total multipitch adventure sandstone. Check it out at http://www.naclassics.com. The rest of the stuff varies from semi-solid to horrific. Hard men routes with runouts on soft, shitty sandstone. There's good bouldering around there, however. The guidebook is called "A Better Way to Die: Rock Climbers Guide to Sedona and Oak Creek Canyon" by Tim Toula, Falcon Publishing/Chockstone Press, 1995. Check out this page: http://www.verticalrelief.com/Local%20Climbing/sedona.htm - the Mace is the tower in the top right picture - you climb up the center tower and then cross the gap for some exhilarating exposure right at the top. Great route. Oh yeah, there's great climbing up the road to Flagstaff and in the surrounding area. Paradise Forks, Jacks Canyon, Granite Mountain, Priest Draw, the Pit, etc. etc. [This message has been edited by offwidthclimber (edited 06-08-2001).]

yep, it's an artists rendition of artesonraju in south america. i've heard that a number of times as well. here's a little photographic evidence. http://www.peakware.com/encyclopedia/peaks/photos/artesonraju1.htm http://www.cosleyhouston.com/photo_info/info_artesonraju.htm http://www.eleves.ens.fr:8080/home/bollinge/perou2.html and that thing is definately NOT in utah...

Nice climbing Forrest! Sounds like a seriously enticing route. I've looked it over in Burdo's North Cascades guide. The first pitch crack and "Clean Break" crack look stellar. Perhaps when I get solid at trad leading 5.10 I'll give it a try! Happy Climbing! Micah Lauer

It's not a "peak" but still some good Cascade climbing! I posted this to rec.climbing a while back and figured it would be a good one to add to the archives here. ******************************************* Silent Running 5.9+, II+ North Buttress, Three O’ Clock Rock Darrington, WA Overview: Darrington is home to large granite domes in a forested, mountainous environment. In fact, a good portion of the climbing is located in the federally protected Boulder River Wilderness area. Climbs in the region range from short single pitch test pieces to long, all day free routes and multi-day aid efforts. Although Darrington is mostly a slab climbing paradise, there are reportedly some good cracks around as well. The most intriguing (and excellent) fact about the area is that despite all the clean, beautiful granite and fantastic routes, Darrington goes relatively unnoticed. Perhaps it’s the fabled rain, or dense forests, or maybe there’s no real explanation at all. At any rate, Darrington is a great, uncrowded climbing area, with plenty of unexplored rock, excellent existing routes, and beautiful scenery. How to get there (from the Seattle area): Take Hwy 530 east from I-5 to the small town of Darrington and then follow the Mountain Highway signage. A few miles out of town, on the Mountain Highway, there will be a clearly marked gravel USFS road on the right (#2060), adjacent to a campground on the left side of the highway. Follow USFS road #2060 up the hill for approximately 5.5 miles to a fork in the road. Keep heading up the right fork about another half mile until a wide turn-out type spot appears. This is the trailhead for the Squire Pass Trail, indicated by a tacky Volvo hubcap nailed to a tree on the right side of the road. Approach: From the hubcap marker, enter the darkness through the trees and follow the trail uphill for about 30 minutes to reach the climb. The trail starts as an old logging road and eventually turns into a proper trail, climbing steadily upward through dense forest and into Boulder River Wilderness Area. There is no mistaking Three O’ Clock and Silent Running. You’ll know you’re there when the trail breaks out of the forest, traverses a short boulder field, and runs right into the bottom of a large, broad slabby apron of rock garnished with small bushes. This is the start of the climb. To the left is a higher slab, separated from the North Buttress and Silent Running by a prominent bushy gully/corner. The climb: Pitch 1: From where the trail meets the rock, climb directly upward on easy friction slab, immediately left of the small crack and bushy flake. About 30 feet straight up and beyond the top of the crack is the single bolt on this pitch. Clip the bolt and continue past, just right of a small overhang and maple bush, to the obvious chain anchors. (5.6) Pitch 2: Trend upward on 5.7 – 5.8 terrain past 6 bolts. There is a decent runout between the third and fourth bolt (maybe 40 feet), but solid rock and good friction eliminates any pucker factor. Obvious chain anchors mark the top of the pitch. (5.8) Pitch 3: The crux pitch is amply bolted for your pleasure. Follow 8 or 9 bolts, including a handful with funky homemade hangers, past two 5.9+ cruxes – one near the second bolt and the other occurring right before the last bolt. The pitch ends at a set of obvious bolted sling anchors. This pitch yields excellent rock and stellar friction climbing. (5.9+) Pitch 4: Some sporting runout (50 feet or so between the second and third bolt… if you can find the third bolt!) takes you up and slightly left past 4 bolts (and a fixed piton behind a flake) to another set of fixed belay anchors. Don’t get suckered into going too far left to the sling anchors on the other side of the corner system/gully. (5.8) Pitch 5: Continue up and right on solid, nondescript 5.8 friction slab to easier ground, passing 5 bolts on your way. The fixed anchors are below a series of slab roofs, bushy terrain and scattered trees. (5.8) Pitch 6 and 7: Apparently, two more pitch will take you to the very top of the slab’s shoulder via a swatch of rock nestled between bushy corners and flakes. The visible bolts on this pitch look like old rusty ¼ inchers, which they are (1/4 inchers that is), but I've been told that they are painted red, and are not actually rusty. The pitches are 5.9 and 5.10a and have some good varied climbing on them. Wish I would have known so I could have continued on! I've been told some small gear may be useful for the last pitch. Descent: Double rope rappel the route. All belay anchors are fixed and of solid state. A walk off looks like a royal pain in the ass, including thrashing down slabby, steep, brushy, wet, unpleasant terrain. Save yourself some trouble and time – carry an extra rope and rappel. Gear: Although a light rack to 2” seems to be the standard suggestion, don’t bother if you're doing the first 5 pitches only. In all honesty, the only worthwhile place to pro is in the crack on the lower part of the first pitch (which you can pretty much friction to the top of without using your hands) and on a flake a little higher up, below the bolt. This is 5.4 - 5.6 terrain, and if you’re not up for a little runout on the easy start, then you’re probably not going to be too thrilled about the steeper, unprotectable 5.7 - 5.8 runout up higher. I would suggest maybe taking a single piece in the 1” – 2” range to stuff in the top of the crack on the first pitch, otherwise 9 quickdraws will suffice. There are no worthwhile gear placements beyond pitch 1. As previously mentioned, two ropes are needed for the rappels. Bring along an extra sling in case you need to remove or back up any of the existing slings at the belay on top of the third pitch. Some of the bolt hangers are interestingly enough speckled with varying shades of gray paint, making them difficult to spot among the granite, particularly when you’re 40 feet out, wondering exactly which way to trend. If you're heading up the last two pitches (6 and 7), as mentioned before, apparently a few smaller pieces to supplement bolts are recommended. References: For a nice topo/reference, see Matt Perkins’ website: http://www.seanet.com/~mattp/Darr/norbut.htm The topo and description in Smoot’s Rock Climbing Washington guide (Falcon) is vague and… well… do yourself a favor and refer to the detailed, updated information available on Perkins’ website if you’re planning on going. *******************************************