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Alex

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Everything posted by Alex

  1. I am still waiting for the (inevitable) lawsuit against God.
  2. yes. I soloed it in 1993, its an easy solo, but bring a rope for the rap off the back, you wont want to downclimb it.
  3. Its a non-technical climb any time of year. Just a hike, albeit a friggin hot one in August! Don't know if there will be snow, but I doubt it.
  4. Whether troll or not, .. Icefall, when I was in your situation (unemployed and homeless living out of my car) several years ago, I basically did a few things: 1) I made it a point to do everything on my own, not mooch off friends. Support systems (ie friends) have a tendancy to fail fast when you become homeless and start asking too many favors. Regular showers, however I could do that, so I looked "presentable", was probably the most important thing for my self esteem and job prospects. 2) swallowed my pride a bit and made up my mind that ANY work was better than no work. 3) picked up the paper, found some help wanteds, and beat the streets of Seattle and the Eastside looking for work in person, meeting with crew bosses on construction sites, retail shop managers, etc, until someone was willing to give me a chance -- after all, what else was I going to do? I sure has HELL was not going to stand on an offramp on I-5 all day and panhandle to guilty motorists. Or sit in the library reading this crap on cc.com. 4) had a plan to make sure I never got in the same situation again,which means to develop multiple marketable skill sets, and get out of any and all debt as fast as possible. Get out there, finding real work is a full-time job in itself, and developing marketable skills is something that will take years and years once you get going agina. Good luck!
  5. i would try live the vision for specific questions on a-strain or nf alberta, i have not personally done those routes so cannot comment. a-strain is somewhat of a trade route now, though, so you should be able to get some info on it.
  6. Andromeda has alot of rockfall down its ice routes, which might or might not be in ok condition in Sept. Usually the weather will be more a factor than the condition of a route in Sept, however, as thats already shoulder season in the Rockies (winter starts in October ). Skyladder is a very easy route you could fire off fairly quickly, however some of the North bowl climbs are more aesthetic. N Face of Athabasca is the classic intermediate ice route there at the Icefields, but its a much longer, more demanding, and more committing route than Skyladder. If you get good weather I would suggest you NOT miss E Ridge or N Face of Edith Cavell, its really one of the nicest alpine peaks anywhere.
  7. marten eat rodents, not fishies
  8. sounds like a good fun adventure! the rockies have good rock in some places: Edith Cavell comes to mind.
  9. I climbed the Emmons a number of years back, and found a person sitting in a sleeping bag at 12,500 on the way down...from what I could tell the individual's party had actually "bagged and tagged" this person on top of a huge snowbridge on top of a large crevasse...probably because it was "flat". We let the person come down with us, but at the time I didnt realize this was common practice.
  10. Fuck you, you fucking fuck power tool, Alex! At first I didnt get this at all, and I thought you were calling me a "tool", you know like Larry the Tool, only worse, I was a "power tool"...which I have to admit was pretty funny! "Your not just a tool, your a fuckin power tool!!!". Then I remembered my avatar image (I have the avatar images turned off in my browser view..Trask et al's avatar images were not work safe) and .... ...oh well you get the point. Good stuff !
  11. Plus he's just a little punter of a guy, so if he gets out of line you can just kick him into submission.
  12. As an aside, whatever you do, DONT climb N Ridge of Crooked Thumb from the notch pointed to in this picture. Its the wrong notch. The correct notch is the next one closer to the peak, which is accessed easily from the W side of the spine, from West-Middle Challenger col.
  13. yeah and that "knotzen" isnt a REAL girl either
  14. The pile of webbing was taken from Triumph, not Torment
  15. Yeah but Rockies humor doesnt land you babes in the Cascades...
  16. I believe Green Trails 80,81,112,113 covers the entire std traverse. though once you hit cache col, the beckey guide desc. is really all you need as the entire thing has a well-worn trail, is above treeline, and if you cant figure it out you probably need some ... maps or something
  17. my advice is spend the next 4 weeks reading this board, to try to figure out who the REAL girls are, then start cyber stalking them in the Spray forum. then come up with the most witty shit you can imagine, try to make them laff, then finally, in about 6 months, invite them out on a climb. to start you off on the right foot, i'll give you some hints * "Amber" is not a REAL girl * "MuffyTheWankerSprayer" might be a long drive for you * "ChrisT" you've already met * "archenemy" the jury is still out as to whether she is a REAL girl or just evil incarnate
  18. This thread is dedicated to all the crap you didnt do this weekend because it was too damn hot!! Me? Tried an alpine climb and should have heeded the words "strenuous approach". Ass kicked, not enuff food or water. We had a nice evening out anyway, no bugs. Summer is over, bring on the freeze.
  19. If you have not been out here before, you'll be pretty floored. The East has nothing that compares even remotely to the size of stuff out here. The "hiking hill" near Seattle, Mt Si, is larger in relief and height than almost any peak in New England outside of the Presenditials... 9s at Seneca and the New are respectable, if you kept your shit together at Seneca you'll probably do ok out here.
  20. Alex

    hint of fall

    Sounds like someone doesn't want to start their pre ice season work out Better start soon if you want to put those ergos to full use hadnt you heard? i dropped one of mine sending girth pillar
  21. Alex

    hint of fall

    shut up all of you, summer has only just started
  22. well-used mythos or 5.10 mountain masters
  23. Alex

    eldorado

    this route typically is only "ice" late in the year, like Oct-Nov. this time of year is likely frightening oatmeal snow
  24. Alex

    Beer...........

    Full Sail Amber
  25. Alex

    OMG!

    another convert, oh goody! i've got a guidebook for you!!
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