DPS
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Posts posted by DPS
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I thought this thread was about stoke.
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My guess, crap. TC seems to form later each year, now it seems to be best late March and April.
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The First Rule of Crevasse Rescue is don't fall in a crevasse.
This one time, coming off of Ham and Eggs Couloir on the Moose's Tooth in the Ruth Gorge...
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Agree with the above. Buy 5mm or 6mm with whatever seems to be the most supple. Some tends to be stiffer than others, so just go by feel. I used to use 6mm but had a bad habit of using them for rappel anchors. Now I use 5mm so I'm less inclined to do that unless I'm in dire straights.
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I sent you an email and a PM.
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I'm guessing some climber got a Ph.D. in math out this.
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What is the consensus on avalanche concern for chockstone falls and kiddie cliff?
Two former frequent CascadeClimbers contributors were buried while standing beneath Kiddie Cliffs. They both lived, but lost a lot of their gear as I recall.
I think the approach to Chockstone Falls would be similarly threatened, if not the climb itself.
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Thanks for the warning Alex. I think the ease of access and proximity to Seattle lull some visitors to the Alpental Valley into a false sense of security, but make no mistake, it is very threatened by avalanches.
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My experience with GoPros is everyone's climbing footage makes me sea sick. Some enterprising engineer should build a gyroscopic stabilizing base for those things.
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FYI, cold artic wind out of the north this morning = cold stable weather... Stay tuned, late December in the mountains could be very good if this continues.
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Based on what I have seen in November and so far in December, I would bet that if these cold, dry conditions persist that winter climbing in the Cascade River Valley will be very good by the third week of December.
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Is this solid fuel coal by any chance? Because that's been done before.
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I'm sending you a PM, I'm interested.
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Also, I have a pair of regular ski poles (not collapsible) that I found in the C-J Couloir, the grips have been chewed on by some sort of varmint, but those are FREE for the taking.
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I have an uber classic Grivel Air Tech Racing (1st generation) complete with a custom red paint job. Extremely light, yet the forged steel pick penetrates ice very well. It is 58 cm. If interested, I would let it go pretty cheaply.
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Run on trails instead of roads. The undulating terrain will force your ankles to become stronger and more flexible. Just a thought.
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IMO this is an is real route for ascending it in winter if the conditions are right.
I agree. It reminded me a lot of Synchronicity in Lilooet, steep ice pillar, steep snow slope, steep ice pillar, steep snow, short hard mixed step...
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That couloir dead center would be pretty cool too, in the right (iced/mixed) conditions. I wonder if that has been climbed? NE Couloir is to the climber's left, around the buttress out of view I think.
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For the area, the west arete on Eldo in winter seems like a better objective but I think it has been done by Kit Lewis maybe?
Kit and Steve Risse I think.
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I attempted to ski around Snow Lakes in winter, but avalanche conditions were too high. We should get Juan in on this action.
I honestly don't think TFT in winter would be that hard, assuming one had the right conditions. I don't think it would be any harder than the big rock routes done in winter in the Stuart Range.
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TFT end of December?
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Grivel had a plastic snow shoe that used a heel lever crampon style attachment system, but I don't recall it integrated with a crampon, I don't think you could wear both at the same time.
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I look forward to being able to climb again, anything really.
Funny, I think a lot about products for climbing and had something like these in my mind. A plastic type snow shoe that uses a crampon's attachment system. Nice to see I have good ideas. No follow through, but good ideas.
[TR] Mt Shuksan - North Face 4/16/2016
in North Cascades
Posted
I remember when you did that route with my partner, Eric Sweet. He became very good, very fast, then moved on to other things. I think he races motorcycles now.