DPS
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Hello,
I am selling 6mm cord. I bought a huge spool and will not be able to use it all. I live in Issaquah, WA (suburb of Seattle) if you want to pick up or I can ship at your expense.
6mm Edelrid accessory cord, 100 meteers. $0.33/ft
I use tons of this stuff as rappel anchors, so when I saw a 100 meter spool on sale I bought it. This is a bit stronger than most manufacturers 6mm cord and is rated at 8.8 kn. The cord is still wrapped in plastic. I am willing to sell as much as you like. It would make a decent tag line, prusik cords, rappel tat, or cordalette/quad anchor. I am not looking to make or lose any money so I am asking what I paid.
6mm pre packaged PMI accessory cord. 50 ft. $15.00
I bought this before I saw the big spool on sale. Not quite as strong as the Edelrid, but good for rappel tat or prusik cords.
If interested, please email Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com
Thanks,
DPS
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I heard Outer Space fell off.
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I agree with Jason, hitching a ride from Hannegan TH to HWY 20 at either Burlington on I-5 or Sedro Wolley on HWY 9 would be pretty easy. Lots of Seattle based climbers heading back that way from climbing Mt. Ruth or something. I've picked up folks at that TH before, and had no problems hitching rides out of the mountains.
The crux will be heading down HWY 20. Not sure if public transportation would get you there. Maybe stake out the Haggen grocery store in Burlington looking for climbers/hikers stocking up on rations and get a ride that way?
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Summit of Monkey Face at Smith Rocks? I don't think it is technically legal, but if you make sure you don't start a campfire and pack out your waste I don't see the harm.
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I was behind a team of six Boy Scouts on the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell. They were split into three rope teams of two. The problem was, they owned only a single rack. So, the first leader would climb and set pro, the follower would unclip but leave the pro in. The leader of the second rope would clip the pro, the follower would leave it. The leader of the third rope would clip the pro and the follower would finally remove it and hand the rack back over to the first leader who would then start the next pitch.
The surprising part was that they were actually faster than many parties of two I've seen. Negative style points for their choice of approach shoes: sandals. They ended up descending that awful couloir by sliding on their rear ends.
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maybe the "dropping of the axe" was on purpose? whatever it takes, short of a hand grenade, to make a quiet day in the mountains?
Could have been pay back for leaving a poorly buried 'cache' that melted out at camp 1 on Hunter.
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There is a fellow who runs a web site with beta on the 50 Classic Climbs of N.A. He had attempted, and turned back on a route on Mt. Hunter (sorry Colin, Begguya), that had not seen many ascents. I pumped him for beta for months and he was really great and helpful.
After climbing and descending the route in a storm back to camp 2, we met the gentleman and his wife and friends. They were a day behind us. They had taken up the only flat real estate, but they were nice enough to help us dig a platform into the corniced ridge during the storm.
Cut to August the following year, TimL and I are at the end of a long queue for the NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire. The party several ahead of us drops an ice axe on the first pitch, everyone scatters. We climb the route, rap off and go back to the hut to discover it was the fellow from Hunter and his wife who dropped the axe.
We had a nice chat, but man, what a small world to run into the same people in two very different locations. I guess 50 Crowded Climbs is apropos.
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What about the snow lakes loop in the Enchantments? You could climb Colchuck, Dragontail, and Little Annapurna for added kicks. Certainly not as long, but the scenery is hard to beat.
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The late, great Joe Puryear was from the Yakima region, as was Paul Soboleski. Good luck finding partners. As you mentioned you are not far from Tieton and Mt. Rainier. Best of luck in grad school and finding partners.
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I'm surprised the Mountaineers are not insisting on the use of knotted rappel rope ends and Prusiks or autoblocks. Little excuse not to use both.
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I'm sure you will have plenty of free time to practice your climbing skills now that you are in medical school. =)
Just out of curiosity, what medical school is this? My understanding was that for in state students, the UW med school either placed students in their first two years in Seattle or Spokane (or Alaska, Montana, or Idaho if you are from those states). Are they now placing students in Yakima, or is this for WSU?
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Not sure who manufacturers it, but somebody makes a brass punch for puncturing the cans. Obviously the brass does not have the propensity to strike a spark.
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Dispensing of the used canisters properly appears to be a big pain. One can't just chuck them into the recycle bin.seems like everyone is going with canisters nowadaysI read in some climber's memoir that the Russian teams reused canisters by refilled from a larger container and a needle used to pump up basket balls. Definitely not a recommended practice, but one way to recycle the tins.
I suppose liability concerns prevents manufacturers from reusing the containers.
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And oh yeah, back then Diedre used to be a wilderness experience.
And the pitons were still probably still in place.
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Thanks for the info. In regards to forbidden in a day... I'm sure it's doable, but when I'm unfamiliar with area and don't even know what the trailhead looks like, long days have a tendency to turn into late night snuggles on a rock ledge.
Good point. I would do a ton of research and have a lot of back up plans should your first, second, third, etc. choices be full up. Boston Basin permits go fast, as do Mt. Triumph permits.
I've never had a problem getting a permit for the Boston Glacier, which puts the North Ridge, NW Face of North Ridge, and NW Arete of Forbidden within reach. Also, NF Buckner is accessed from the Boston as well. Eldorado Peak was mentioned, which has the West Arete, NW Face, East Ridge. Also Dorado Needle can be accessed from Eldorado. Washington Pass with the Liberty Bell group, Kangaroo Ridge, Wine Spires and Valsiliki Ridge are outside of the wilderness area and offer alpine cragging at its finest.
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Everything on Forbidden is climbable car to car in a day, especially the West Ridge, so that is always an option.
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I believe this was recently added by NCNP rangers.
What makes you think that? They seem to be in the business of removing anchors. They pulled the bolted descent route and cleaned all of the anchors from the West Ridge. Hard to imagine them adding anchors.
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So, I've done a couple of these peaks in winter. It seems like the Tatoosh Traverse would be very cool, and accessible, in winter. Must add that one to the list of winter traverses I'll never do which include the Stuart Range traverse (NW Face Stuart, West Face Couloir Sherpa, something on Argonaut, West Face of Colchuck, and something on the NF of Dragontail or possibly NE Couloir) and TFT in winter, or the Cascade Pass traverse (Eldorado, Torment, Forbidden, Shark Fin, Sahale), and the Alpental Traverse (Denny-Tooth, Hemlock, Bryant, Chair, NF Snoqualmie, Guye Peak).
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Funny thing is that we met quite a few people doing the north face that weekend and I've been wanting to do that for a while. And the most popular descent route for that is Fisher Chimneys
though you could just as easily take Sulphide on your way out. I actually prefer the Fisher Chimneys to the North Face for its variety. Descending via Sulphide would require a long car shuttle. Early season you can descend White Salmon.
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I have climbed Fisher Chimneys four times, and descended it six times. I've only managed to find the correct route up twice, finding adventurous climbing the other two times. Bonus 5th class escapades with fixed pickets in rock cracks for pro and pieces of a broken helmet for the alpine ambiance. Oddly, one of the times I managed to find the correct chimney was during an attempt on the North Face with the Haley boys. Go figure.
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I imagine it would be become a total shit show up there though with every denim pants wearing, coloradan 14-er, trying to run up the mountain solo.
I recall a story of man showing up at Camp Muir wearing cut off shorts and a giant knife asking one of the guides (may have even been big Lou) "What does it take for a real man to climb this mountain?" I believe the answer was along the lines of "When one walks by I'' be sure to ask him."
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It's seems that each time I get lured by lightweight gear (e.g. thin nylon packs), I'm disappointed when it quickly shreds. I just returned a lightweight REI Flash 30 after 2 seams ripped on a simple Mt. Rainier outing. Just putting a pack down on that coarse volcanic tuff (on Success Cleaver) gave me pause. Ok, I overstuffed the bag and had crap strapped all over it, but still, I could have dragged my Mescalito behind my car on the whole drive from Bellingham to Rainier and likely still have had a functional pack for the climb. Same problem with my Lowe Alpine Attack Summit and equivalent paper thin lightweight daypacks by Mountain Hardware and Patagonia; they are all shredded sieves now.
I recently purchased and returned or sold four 30 liter packs (including MH, Patagonia, Gregory, and Norrona) attempting to find a suitable replacement for my Serratus Genie, which despite its low cost and non techy material lasted for 48 hard seasons. I finally bit the bullet and had Randy at CCW build a custom Ozone. Looking forward to getting it in the mail.
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I've skied a few of the volcanoes as well as other glaciated peaks (Adams, Hood, Baker, Shuksan, etc.) but never Rainier above 10k. I've always been too chicken. Maybe I was just being smart?
I saw the same thing on Denali, and really don't understand the not roping up on Denali and Rainier. What are you proving, that you can walk through a mine field without stepping on one? I see it as different than soloing technical routes like Infinite Spur or Moonflower Buttress, those routes demand extreme skill. Nothing inherently difficult about walking unroped on a glacier.
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Sorta like the constipated mathematician. He worked it out with a pencil.
You do realize you are responding to a university professor with a Ph.D. in theoretical mathematics, right?
I took an old, beat up MSR XGK stove to MSR in Seattle for their $35.00 service. The dude behind the counter just reached into a bin and handed me a brand new stove, wind screen, and pump. I also mailed an old, beat up MSR XGK for their cleaning service and received back a brand new stove, pump, BOTTLE, and wind screen. In both cases, it was definitely worth the cost.
Something to consider.
Go-to Training Hikes
in Climber's Board
Posted · Edited by DPS
Three Fingers is pretty stout for a training hike. Mt. Pilchuck is very popular with the Everett crowd. Mt. Persis (next to Mt. Index) and Mt. Baring come to mind as well.