DPS
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Posts posted by DPS
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Would you carry skis across the traverse? This is probably the biggest problem with the entire goal.
I thought a couple of guys (Ryan Laurie?) did do the TFT with skis on their backs, but I could be wrong about that. Small, plastic snow shoes would be the trick.
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Hi,
I have been an enthusiastic winter climber in the Cascade River valley since 2000. I do not believe the TFT has been done in winter, and I have thought about it quite a bit. I agree with Dave, the approach would be the easy part and the key would be do it early season, like in December, right after the solstice, and hope for a low snow pack. Also, bring a chain saw, come along, a shovel, a few bags of sand, chains, and a 4WD vehicle. Often trees fall and block the road and need to be removed to drive up to the trailhead, which would likely be gaited at the Elodrado Creek TH, mile 20. Yes, you can certainly use a snow machine on the road, certainly not on the approach. If there is too much snow on the road to drive to the TH, likely the TFT will be heavily corniced.
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One of the things I really like about the Grivel is it has an extendable hook for hooking nuts, but could conceivably be used as a v-threader.
sounds like an old style "Thor" ...
That's the one! Anybody know where I can score one? The little third tool is close, but I would prefer the old Thor.
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My idea is simply for driving pitons in the alpine. I've pretty much given up on the idea of using leashless tools for driving pins, so I was thinking of carrying a light hammer in addition to my leashless tools on routes where I expect to need pitons. One of the things I really like about the Grivel is it has an extendable hook for hooking nuts, but could conceivably be used as a v-threader.
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Pretty close to what I am looking for, just with a wee bit longer pick. Could be very useful for my purposes. Thanks!
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$500 for the full kit? That is a good price. If I did not already own three pairs of skis I would pop on it.
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I would like buy a Grivel alpine rock hammer. This is the older, red shafted model.
I am willing to pay cash, but I also have a bunch of odds and ends that I can trade:
Scarpa Inverno double plastic boots with Intuition liners. Size 9 - 9.5.
Really nice La Sportiva insulated supergaiters. Fit size 9 plastic and insulated leather boots.
Serratus Genie pack (rode hard, put up wet)
BD Shadow 45 liter pack (used, chewed on a bit by a rodent).
If you have a hammer you are willing to part with, please email Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com.
Thanks!
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I went without insurance until I had a very serious climbing accident with very serious hospital bills. It was what largely influenced me to accept a job I disliked but had health insurance and 20 years later I am still there, largely because of the health insurance.
I thought that Washington has its own health insurance, which is affordable, but might require a wait list. Apple Care or something.
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You bet, it was great to meet and chat with you. Good luck on your search.
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Email returned.
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Hi,
I have a Black Diamond Shadow, 45L. This has been an excellent all around alpine climbing pack - reasonably light, surprisingly durable, nice crampon and tool attachments. Big enough for a week or so in the summer, three or so days in the winter. Carries and climbs well. My torso is 19 3/4", and the fit of this pack is spot on.
This pack did suffer an unprovoked snafflehound attack, so there are some chew marks on the hip belt, but it does not affect the integrity of the pack. The rodent also chewed off the sternum strap which I replaced with a DIY one that works just fine.
The top lid is removable, the hip belt not. Frame is probably removable. Hydration bladder compatible.
Regarding the CRUX packs, I just popped on a CRUX AX 50, which is really light and maybe a bit smaller than the Shadow. Frankly, in many ways I like the Shadow better, but I don't need two packs that are basically the same size.
I don't really have a price in mind, so that is negotiable. If you are interested you can email me at Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com.
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How about a Serratus Genie instead?
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I recently upgraded from Scarpa Summits and 23 year old Scarpa Invernos. My particular choices in new boots were based partially on what fit my feet the best so I hesitate to recommend particular brands. I did find Dane Burns' blog posts regarding boots on http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/ to be an invaluable resource while researching all of the new boot options.
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Hmmm, might be a tight fit. My boots are a large size 9, perhaps 9 1/2.
I would have thought it would be easier to give a pair of boots away, especially ones with $150 Intuition liners AND green Superfeet insoles.
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What size boot do you wear? I will happily hook you up with a free pair of plastics, if they are your size.
Photos here: http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB3/winter-clothing-boots-and-a-pack-for-sale-t81282.html
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I am giving away a pair of Scarpa Invernos with Inuition liners. Size 9-9.5. They are used, but by the looks of it in considerably better shape than yours. Let me know if you are interested.
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Like the title said, I am giving away a pair of Scarpa Inverno double plastic boots. These boots have been used, but they were built like a Russian tank and have plenty of wear left. The cost is FREE. Photos here: http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB3/winter-clothing-boots-and-a-pack-for-sale-t81282.html
I replaced the stock liners with Intuition liners, which makes the boots much lighter and warmer. The liners are in very good condition and come with green Superfeet insoles.
These boots are a men's size 9, but the new liners fit rather large and would probably fit a size 9/ EU 43 a bit more precisely.
The catch:
These do not come with shoe laces.
I will not ship these.
You must come to my home in Issaquah and pick them up.
If you are interested, please email Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com. Priority will be given to whomever shows up on my door step first.
The other items in the linked post are still for sale, in case you are interested in some high quality, barely used women's jackets.
Thanks for looking.
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I have one I can part with. Carried often, rarely placed. I think I spray painted it silver when I loaned out all my iron to friend. I would be willing to pass it on for the cost of mailing it. Email me at Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com and we can work it out.
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Quick question--do you think something like the WR of Stuart would be a good "primer" climb for Exum?
Ummm, not really. WR of Stuart involves soooo much scrambling and only 3-4 pitches of 5th class climbing. Maybe the upper NR of Stuart would be a more comparable climb. Are you planning on the Full Exum, or just the upper Exum? The lower part is harder than anything above ledge traverse that accesses the upper Exum. Nothing really harder than 5.7, but on the upper I just ran the rope out, no gear other than anchors. Another issue is that rock climbing at nearly 14k is really kind of tough. Make sure you acclimatize for a few days before getting on the Grand.
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DPS--that sounds like a warning! hahaha! But if she didn't kill me after Prime Rib, I think it'll go!
I stopped to belay in the middle of the Black Dike pitch, standing on a telephone book sized ledge with an anchor made of tiny nuts. She joined the belay, looked around, and burst out in tears. After the Complete Exum she wouldn't climb with me for the rest of the trip, so I picked up a couple of college kids at the Climber's Ranch and climbed with them.
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Awesome! I dated a girl and took her up Outer Space, her first multi-pitch route and shortly after the Ccomplete Exum was her first alpine route. She broke up with me on that trip.
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What about Wyoming?
it's a little weird having to go through a drive through to get a beer
I thought so too, however, my climbing partner appreciated the convenience.
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WWNSS - what would ned stark say?
I lost me bloody head?
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FWIW, Harborview in Seattle is considered to be one of the best trauma centers in the PNW.
Its the only Level 1 trauma center in the PNW. The next closest is SLC I think.
I had a friend who nearly lost a foot in a freak accident after climbing in Little Cottonwood Canyon. She was taken to Harborview for treatment rather than in nearby SLC, so that says something I guess.
Need some advice, drying clothing in sleeping bag
in The Gear Critic
Posted · Edited by DPS
I have a standard Gore Dryloft covered down sleeping bag. I pretty much had to come to grips that I was only going be comfortable for the first night, cold and kind of miserable the second night, and after that it was just plain miserable. I found a light weight synthetic bag to have better staying power, but at significant weight and bulk penalties.