DPS
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Posts posted by DPS
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11 hours ago, JayB said:
Did the a lower part of the Girth Pilar on Stuart fall off ~10-12 years ago? Think the route still goes but the lower pitches changed?
The giant piece of rock had already fallen off high, and climber's left when I attempted it on June 21, 1998. I don't think it really changed the route???? It certainly still goes.
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The problem is not the cold, the problem is you will be wading around in wet snow for six days. It will impossible to keep your boots dry or to dry them out once they get wet.
While I prefer leather boots for most things, for a week long Rainier trip in June I would personally go with plastics or 5,000/6,000 meter boots
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2 hours ago, JasonG said:
Oh, I was thinking of you @DPS!
What scares me is that someone read my TR of Price Glacier and decided it would be a good route to do. Her epic on the route was so epically epic it is almost hard to believe.
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13 hours ago, JasonG said:
ummmmmmm......no thanks. It seems like everyone who climbs the route these days in high summer has some near death experience. I've tested fate enough in the hills.
I thought I was going to die.
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I'd be up for it after the White River Road opens, typically Memorial Day Weekend, but I'm old and slow. In my mind, the approach and decent that make the most sense are White River Road - Glacier Basin, St. Elmo's Pass, Carbon Glacier, high camp at 10k, climb the route, descend Emmons Glacier. That is a lot of ground to cover in a day, not saying it can't be done, I'm sure it can and has been done.
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Wow, ok, so you realize your approach and descent are going to be very, very long. If you go by White River Road, it adds about 24 miles to the trip and depending upon snow conditions it could take you an entire day just to get to the trailhead. From Paul Peak-Mowich Lake expect at least 12 hours if conditions are very, very good to get to high camp. Maybe going up Carbon Glacier would be more direct? Either way, you are biting off a lot, particularly being someone with zero experience on the mountain. Maybe you should shoot for a one day climb of the DC?
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I work next to the Amazon Domes, and I see these tech kids wearing top of the line Arc'Teryx and Patagonia belay jackets to ride the bus. I admit, I own some pretty nice belay jackets but I would never wear them to work - they skink from climbing in them.
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Marmot Mountain Works in Bellevue, RIP, was owned by a fellow who is old timber money. My brother's wife's sister's husband's brother worked there for many years (Dave May). I stopped by during their going out of business sale to say good bye to Dave and a few friends who worked there. He told me that retail stores were dying because manufacturers did not want to sell through them, but would rather sell online and through their own brick and motor stores. Not sure if that is entirely retail is dying, but within a few block radius of where I work there are Patagonia, Arc'Teryx, Mountain Hardwear, and North Face stores.
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This is not the Second Ascent (Second Bounce) we all knew and loved. The original owner sold out and it became a sterile shop with no soul. Gone were Ed Viesture's Polo down suit from his solo Everest attempt, Greg Child's tent form G-IV, the fantastic collection of classic Chouinard ice tools, and all the used clothing/gear. The original shop employed hard core climbers like Hannah (Pandora), Chris Simmons, Keith Mark Johnson, Ian Nicholson, and many others with tons of PK. Selling the store was a loss. The loss of the new shop is no loss to the community.
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19 hours ago, genepires said:
I looked at gritscone and I don't think it is very kid friendly. Hell, it doesn't look adult friendly either.
thanks though.
I personally don't find anything at Exit 32/38 particularly inspiring. Leavenworth should be not too much farther for you. Clamshell Cave, The Hand, Bruce's Boulder, Barney's Rubble, Roto Wall are all easily top roped and kid friendly, but I suspect you know all that.
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The Gritstone would fit the bill.
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On 4/22/2019 at 5:17 PM, needtoclimb said:
Part of the problem with kids is that I often only get a day, so anything farther than a couple of hours just eats too much into that day.
That is what drove me to do stuff like climb the full NR of Forbidden CTC in 14 hours, or the Coleman Headwall in 10. Easy to get a day off, make as much of it as possible.
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I think, after speaking with Dan Cauthorn and Jim Nelson, that @Nick andI made perhaps the second ascent (who knows) of this route in '97. It was excellent fun.
The cornice was a monster when we did it. I aided the left hand wall, off a cam, then nailed a flake with a KB, which broke and fell in my lap. I nailed the stump and watched the KB rotate from 90 degrees to straight down. This got me high enough to bypass the super overhanding cornice to where it over hung only by 10 degrees. I made four aid moves off of pickets and flopped down the back side.
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Thanks Jason, I suspect given the number of Grade IV routes, it would be non-committing (easy to bail) Grade V and require a bivi. What did you climb on Conchord Tower, it is the only one I haven't done? That and the Minute Man.
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I've enchained a few of the Liberty Bell group towers, but never all of them. I'm thinking about what would be the highest quality moderate enchainment of the Liberty Bell group. Here is what I've come up with
-Park at hairpin and climb SEWS, East Buttress Direct
-Descend SE Arete
-Climb NEWS, NW Corner
-Descend via rappel route
-Rappel NEWS-Lexington gulley to get to bottom of Lexington, East Face - is this even possible? If not, I guess descend back around SEWS
-Lexington Tower, East Face
-Something on Concord Tower - Cave route? Suggestions?
- Liberty Bell, Beckey Route
Thoughts? How would you do it?
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2 hours ago, Loco Raindrops said:
4 gallons?
Thats what I tote for a dayhike.
Well, there's a problem right there. That's about 30 lbs.
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On 4/13/2019 at 11:50 AM, JasonG said:
Totally wicked. Glad you dodged the avy dragon! That topo is fantastic....
Brings back good memories of a trip long ago with @Juan Sharp and @DPS and Kurt Hicks.....
I remember that it was a long walk but at least my feet hurt.
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Liberty Ride will almost definitely be out of shape by July 27.
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3 hours ago, Loco Raindrops said:
I wonder if folks actually show up to these guided trips/seminars with rope.
So, I tried guiding for a season, I was terrible at it. Anyhoo, one guest showed up with 4 gallons of water. I explained that we would be melting snow for our water and she did not need more than 2 liters.
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2 hours ago, Bronco said:
And of course, DPS's advice and list are spot on. Except the Hexes.
Years ago I was climbing a moderate alpine rock route. I like Hexes in general and I like the additional challenge of climbing without a rack of cams. So, I was swinging leads and my partner slung a chockstone for his first placement and clipped the entire rack of Hexes to it so he did not have to carry them.
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Can dads with adult children apply?
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14 hours ago, Fasttrack said:
Edit to add: Yeah, DPS, I wouldn't mind seeing your gear list.
Here you go. Note that to get your pack weight down, you will decide if you really need a full rope and rock gear. Going with just a 30 meter rando rope for the glacier and planning to solo up and down the pyramid if that is in you comfort zone will lose quite a bit of weight.
Clothing Head Warm hat Smartwool Beanie Helmet Black Diamond Tracer Hands Liner gloves Cheap poly pro/light fleece Warm gloves Smartwool leather Feet Boots Scarpa Charmoz Warm socks Goodhew (x 2 pair) Sleeping Socks Smartwool Legs Briefs Poly Tights/long johns Light weight Pants Prana light weight softshell Torso Shirt Patagonia light weight, long sleeve, zip tee Light insulation/outer layer Marmot DriClime wind shirt Shell Montbel Versalite Belay Jacket Patagonia Nanopuff Hooded Personal climbing equipment Backpack Montbel Balance Light 40 Harness Black Diamond Couloir HMS Carabiner Mammut Belay Device Petzl Reverso Small carabiners Mammut locking x 2 Chicken Sling Double 9/16" nylon Ice axe Petzl Summit Evo 60 cm Crampons Grivel hybrid Air Tech Lite (steel front, aluminum rear) Optional - depends on your risk tolerance for glaicer travel - usually advisable Ice hammer (late season) Petzl Sum'Tec 50 cm Picket MS Coyotoe Pulley REI Prusik Cords 5mm perlon (Texas set up) Ice screw (late season) 16-19 cm Odds and ends Water bottles 3 liter Camelback, 1 liter Nalgene (empty, useful for collecting water and as mug) TP Partial roll First aid kit Blister stuff, gauze pads, analgesics, athletic tape, asthma inhaler Camera with pouch Panasonic Lumix Essentials Kit Stuff sack Small, red silnylon stuff sack Sunglasses Cebe glacier glasses Knife 2.5" Buck with 1/2 serrated blade Sunblock Aloe Gator Gel SPF 40 1oz Lip balm Bannana Boat SPF 15 Lotion Coconut oil Lighter Small Bic with guard removed Extra batteres for headlamp 4 x AAA lithium Headlamp Black Diamond Storm Water treatent tablets Chlorine Dioxide Compass Brunton Spoon Titanium Shared climbing equipment Ropes 50m x 8.5mm Edelweiss Sharp Everdry half rope Optional - depends on how comfortable you are climbing moderate rock. Summit pyramid can be climbed at easy 4th class to mid 5th class Nuts Black Diamond Stoppers #5-#13 Hexes Black Diamond #8-#11 Alpine draws 6 x 60cm sewn spectra with 2 wire gate carabiners Double length slings 2 x 120cm Spectra runners with 1 locking carabiner each Gear sling 9/16" x 60 cm sewn sling Tat 20 meters of 6mm cord Camping equipment Sleeping bag Stoic Somnus 30 degree Sleeping pad Thin Evazotte Trekking poles Atlas Shelter Black Diamond Betamid with stakes Stove MSR Pocket Rocket with heat exchanger Pot 1 liter, black anadozied aluminum with handle Fuel 16 oz MSR Isopro Spoon Titanium Bowl Thin plastic Lighter Mini Bic Hygeine Kit -optional Toothbrush Travel size Tooth paste Trial size Floss Trial size Hand santizer Trial size alcohol gel Foot powder Gold Bond trial size -
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18 minutes ago, montypiton said:
I'll go out on a limb here and offer a couple of "creative" solutions I've used to resolve the dilemma of determining an optimum summer alpine boot. In the 1980s, my favorite summer alpine boot was (wait for it...) the iconic Royal Robbins big wall rock-climbing shoe that had dominated the u.s. rock-shoe market in the early '70s.
A number of years ago when Second Ascent was Second Bounce located in Fremont next to Dave Page I saw a fellow walking down the sidewalk in Fremont wearing Royal Robbins rock shoes. I am sure he bought them at Second Bounce. Quite a sartorial statement.
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Definitely bring gaiters, I accidently left those off my list. Yeah, don't bring a rope, I just cut and pasted my personal gear list to give you an idea of what I bring and I always rope up for Rainier.
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Mid/late June footwear
in Newbies
Posted · Edited by DPS
That is solid grounding. Unfortunately, lines like GoreTex simply don't work. I am a big believer in leather boot maintenance with a beeswax/polyurethane product, the waterproofing is abraded quickly by the ice crystals and won't keep boots dry past day three, assuming you are on glaciers all day.
Something along the lines of Scarpa Phantom or similar would be ideal for Rainier. You could go to a warmer model for Denali and use them on both trips.