DPS
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Posts posted by DPS
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I just got back from Myrtle Edwards park run. I do it on my lunch break.
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Jim,
Do you work for KC?
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Cougar Mountain Regional Wildland Park is primo and just 30 minutes from downtown by car.
http://www5.metrokc.gov/reports/parkinfo/getParkInfo.asp?PID=2647,Cougar%20Mountain%20Regional%20Wildland%20Park
If you don't have access to a car, then Greenlake and Woodland Park is ok.
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# 3 camalot. I found the guy and gave it back. # 2 Black Diamond angle piton. Brand new, I removed it from Chair Peak descent gulley wiht my fingers.
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Swiss army knife.
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The downside of this is that you'll also bleed more. I had a very minor surgical procedure a while back and they didn't want me to take asprin the week before for this reason. It started to make me wonder how much more I might bleed should I have an accident and be takin asprin. Given the choice between cold hands and running the risk of bleeding to death I'm with the former. Does anyone know how big an effect asprin has?
Once on Triple Couloirs I left a trail of blood all the way up the route. Blood from a tiny cut on my knee would not stop flowing.
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I second naproxen.Its what I take into the hills.
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All good advice. A guy my mom knows disapeared on the hike up to Camp Muir one winter a number of years ago. They still have not found his body.
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Dec climbs will probably amount to you getting completely fucked with bad weather or bad avy conditions. have fun.
I did not want to sound completey negative, but griz pretty well summed it up.
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The road to Paradise gets plowed, however, they can still require chains and will turn you around if you don't have them.
There is three feet of snow at Paradise right now. Snow cover on the upper part of the mountain on the south side is typically thin in December due to the fact that the prevailing winds strip the snow off that side. Crevasses can be very thinly covered. Additionally, sastrugi can make crevasses very difficult to detect.
Hope that helps
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I have Intuition liners in my Scarpa Inverno's. The stock liners are warm enough for Rainier in winter and lower Alakan peaks. The Intuitions I bought for a Denali trip.
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I also have a DAS and really like it although only ever really use it for belaying ice climbing. I have a Wild Things primaloft sweater that I use in the Cascades a fair bit. Really like both but wish the WT had a hood.
Can anyone recommend a jacket that sort of weight that has a large hood?
Wild Things makes a hooded Primaloft Sweater now, as well as the hooded EP Jacket.
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*before you start climbing swing your arms individually like a windmill. I do 25 foward and 25 back. If your hands arent warm yet...do more. If I start with cold hands, Im screwed.
*Shake out with your hand below your waist. Take our hands out of your leashes or do it with your tool in hand. this will also decrease the pump a bit.
Good tips.
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Try taking asprin and garlic pills. The asprin thins the blood and the garlic makes the platelets less 'sticky' thus improving circulation considerably.
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I don't think posting that photo of himself will win any dates.
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I used DeWalts imapct wrench once. It fell apart fast. But I love their saws and drills.
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Alex,
Where was the Mveryeasy? They all seemed M-HowTheHellDoIClimbThis to me.
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I know nothing about electronics. Can someone recommend an MP3 player that would be good for running? i.e. not too bulky, but still stores plenty of music? Is iRiver a good brand? How about I-pod mini?
Thanks
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As of two weeks ago it was snow free all the way to the end, but gated at Eldorado Creek trailhead.
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I'm sorta looking at something along these lines, is a parka along the lines of the Wild Things Belay Jacket warm enough for a Volcano Slog?
Cheers: Rob
I used mine in Alaska, its a very warm parka. Too warm for Cascades winter climbing, except for maybe Rainier. I think the EP Jacket is better suited for Cascade winters.
I sold my down jacket and got a Wild Things Primaloft sweater for the cascades. I found that down does not work well in the wet climate.
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NE Buttress on Chair *might* be in. I have climbed it with very little snow on it and had a nice time. Be prepared for some rock, I mean 'mixed' climbing. Cascade Pass is probably good right now, I hear West Face/Ridge of Mixup Peak is a nice route.
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BIG CRYBABY
in Spray
Norman Mailer predicted the fall of the Soviet Union due to economic pressure 25 years before it happened.
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So, who was this climber? What was the venture he started in 1938? What five peaks did he pioneer? For extra credit, name other first ascents that he made. (I can't think of any off-hand, except one important climb in the B.C interior. But I suspect there were more.)
Loyld Anderson, REI, Mt Degenhart.
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Perhaps try sending 'W' or 'joepuryear' a PM.
Racking Screws
in Ice Climbing Forum
Posted
Black Diamond used to make a carabiner called the Fin that works very well for racking screws.